Frustrated! Car dying again while driving! Battery?
10-27-09, 07:19 AM
#1
Frustrated! Car dying again while driving! Battery?
Ok. I'm sure very few of you know that about a month ago I bought a new alternator 200amp thinking that was the problem. Now I don't know - maybe my 3 year old Yellow Top Optima is dying?
First off I have a system custom made. JL 13w6v2, JL 500/1, JL 300/4, 5 farad. Professionally installed with diamond audio speakers inside with HU of Eclipse.
Here is what happened about a month ago which almost happened again today driving to work.
Driving on the BQE with the lights on since it's raining about 15-30mph since it's always traffic. Radio only on volume 25 - loud would be 50 and over for all who does not have a Eclipse HU. AC on fan power 1 only for the moisture in front and back. Then the nightmare starts (again).
First I hear a POP and my headunit shuts off. Look at the dash and see the battery light appear momentarily. So I immediately shut off AC and headlights. The Eclipse HU turns on but I shut it off. Radio is always first to go. That was today, last month same issue but went further to one headlight shutting off then VSC, ABS, VSC OFF lights turn on the dash where the car will almost died by then. It didn't get to that today since i immediately turned off the AC and headlights and continued to rev the car.
So now what? Yellow Top Optima D34 is only about 3 years old and a new 200amp alternator.
I guess later today I'll check what my voltage is. Can someone post the correct reading to the following questions? I did search but getting too many different answers.
What's should the voltage of the alternator be when the car is running?
What's should the voltage of the battery be when the car is running?
What's should the voltage of the battery be when the car just gets turned off after driving?
Obviously what is voltage is good and what voltage is bad?
Any help would be great!
First off I have a system custom made. JL 13w6v2, JL 500/1, JL 300/4, 5 farad. Professionally installed with diamond audio speakers inside with HU of Eclipse.
Here is what happened about a month ago which almost happened again today driving to work.
Driving on the BQE with the lights on since it's raining about 15-30mph since it's always traffic. Radio only on volume 25 - loud would be 50 and over for all who does not have a Eclipse HU. AC on fan power 1 only for the moisture in front and back. Then the nightmare starts (again).
First I hear a POP and my headunit shuts off. Look at the dash and see the battery light appear momentarily. So I immediately shut off AC and headlights. The Eclipse HU turns on but I shut it off. Radio is always first to go. That was today, last month same issue but went further to one headlight shutting off then VSC, ABS, VSC OFF lights turn on the dash where the car will almost died by then. It didn't get to that today since i immediately turned off the AC and headlights and continued to rev the car.
So now what? Yellow Top Optima D34 is only about 3 years old and a new 200amp alternator.
I guess later today I'll check what my voltage is. Can someone post the correct reading to the following questions? I did search but getting too many different answers.
What's should the voltage of the alternator be when the car is running?
What's should the voltage of the battery be when the car is running?
What's should the voltage of the battery be when the car just gets turned off after driving?
Obviously what is voltage is good and what voltage is bad?
Any help would be great!
10-27-09, 07:35 AM
#2
If the car is turning of when running it is usually associated with the alternator. I would get the battery tested at Autozone as I have heard of Optima's going bad after 3 years.
Alternator should be outputting about 14.2 volts
When car is running alternator is recharging the battery so voltage will be around 13.8-14.2 volts
voltage of the battery fully charged should be around 12.6V
Alternator should be outputting about 14.2 volts
When car is running alternator is recharging the battery so voltage will be around 13.8-14.2 volts
voltage of the battery fully charged should be around 12.6V
10-27-09, 08:07 AM
#3
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Normally, if you had upgrade the sound system..You should get additional for that because one battery that runs the entire car is not going to have enought juice to support it..Like Spyder78 says...if the car is running it is not the battery, usually the alternator. Just have it check out just to make sure what cause it..IMO..
10-27-09, 09:29 AM
#5
Ok so far I've been getting that it is the alternator not the battery. I just installed a new 200amp alternator compare to our 100amp stock alternator a month a ago. I guess I'll check the alternator again. Looking for 14.2volts output while the car is running idle.
10-27-09, 09:49 AM
#7
heres my specs.
Car off: 12v
Car idle: 12.8v-13v
Car under load: 13.3v-14v
hope that helps. why its that low? iono
but if your alternator takes a shizz then your battery light usually turns on.. then your lights will go crazy, radio dont work, guages go out, etc etc... n then your on the side of the road waiting for AAA.
Car off: 12v
Car idle: 12.8v-13v
Car under load: 13.3v-14v
hope that helps. why its that low? iono
but if your alternator takes a shizz then your battery light usually turns on.. then your lights will go crazy, radio dont work, guages go out, etc etc... n then your on the side of the road waiting for AAA.
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10-27-09, 09:57 AM
#9
10-27-09, 12:20 PM
#11
Where i bought the alternator from...
Off this ebay seller. Yes, ebay. A total of five of my friends bought from them. Great price with a 1 year warranty. Fast shipping too!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0508&viewitem=
Took me and my boy 45 minutes to install. Longest part was crimping the new gauge. Probably could do it 20 minutes now if I have send it back. Doubt it's the alternator though. Maybe something else with the wiring or what not. We'll see later tonight.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0508&viewitem=
Took me and my boy 45 minutes to install. Longest part was crimping the new gauge. Probably could do it 20 minutes now if I have send it back. Doubt it's the alternator though. Maybe something else with the wiring or what not. We'll see later tonight.
10-27-09, 12:43 PM
#14
Breathe easy, mang.
Doesn't AutoZone test alternators/battery's for free? Or walmart even?
and Midas tests charging systems or whatever.. start taking advantage of those things and trace out the source of your issues.
It ain't the mystery of stone henge.. you'll figure it out.
Doesn't AutoZone test alternators/battery's for free? Or walmart even?
and Midas tests charging systems or whatever.. start taking advantage of those things and trace out the source of your issues.
It ain't the mystery of stone henge.. you'll figure it out.
