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Old 06-10-09, 05:07 PM   #1
Ckroush
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Default Creaking/Clunking When Turning the Steering Wheel

Alright so help me out here. Here's my problem:

When I am braking and turning the steering wheel, I get a popping/clunking/creaking sound (popping and creaking at the same time).

It is usually when I am pulling in to a parking space on my left. I brake and turn left, but as I am entering the spot and straightening my wheels by turning the other direction, I hear a loud creaking sound accompanied by repetitive clunking. It does it every time as soon as I change direction of the wheels.

I do occasionally hear the clunking sound (No creaking) when turning right. Let's say I am pulling up to a stop sign to turn right and I am braking while turning the wheel right a little. I'll hear a pop-pop-pop sound.

I just had the car in the shop the other day. They told me I needed new sway bar bushings and new struts. I spent $630, and the steering is now tighter and more responsive, but I still get that terrible noise. Suggestions?
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Old 06-10-09, 05:58 PM   #2
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Sorry.. Moderator please move to suspension
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Old 06-10-09, 06:16 PM   #3
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I have the same problem! Replaced ball joints and tie rod ends too. THinking its related to that caster arm on the lower control arm maybe..
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Old 06-10-09, 06:18 PM   #4
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Lower control arm bushings. I have the same issue when coming to a complete stop.. The Daizen bushing kit will solve the problem... GL
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Old 06-11-09, 08:34 AM   #5
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Lower control arm bushings. I have the same issue when coming to a complete stop.. The Daizen bushing kit will solve the problem... GL
That's interesting because when I had my ball joints replaced a few months ago, I was told I needed new control arm bushings. This last time my car was serviced, they didn't say a thing about it.
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Old 06-11-09, 09:11 AM   #6
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i replaced my Lower ball joints, casters and rack bushing and im still having that same pop clunk sound whenever i stop and reverse with my wheels turned... let me know what you find.... subscribed!!!!
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Old 06-11-09, 09:58 AM   #7
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It's possible that the actualy ball joint itself on the upper control arm went bad. It's not cheap to replace it either, but that's the only culprit left if you've changed all the other front end bushings already. If you haven't replaced all the bushings yet, then check the upper control arm bushings as well. Mine was making the annyoing clunking noise for a while until I changed those bushings out.

Reasoning: The factory upper control arm bushings aren't just a piece of rubber. It's actually a smaller ball joint assembly encased with a rubber surrounding. The balljoint piece can wear out over time and cause excessive slop which will cause the knocking noise.

Last edited by JeffTsai; 06-11-09 at 10:02 AM.
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Old 06-11-09, 10:06 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ckroush View Post
Alright so help me out here. Here's my problem:

When I am braking and turning the steering wheel, I get a popping/clunking/creaking sound (popping and creaking at the same time).

It is usually when I am pulling in to a parking space on my left. I brake and turn left, but as I am entering the spot and straightening my wheels by turning the other direction, I hear a loud creaking sound accompanied by repetitive clunking. It does it every time as soon as I change direction of the wheels.

I do occasionally hear the clunking sound (No creaking) when turning right. Let's say I am pulling up to a stop sign to turn right and I am braking while turning the wheel right a little. I'll hear a pop-pop-pop sound.

I just had the car in the shop the other day. They told me I needed new sway bar bushings and new struts. I spent $630, and the steering is now tighter and more responsive, but I still get that terrible noise. Suggestions?
I have the same problem. The culprit is the upper control arm ball joint.. In my case, it is the driver side only.. Lexus does not sell the ball joints seperately so you will have to purchase the upper control arm(s). It is best to buy them in pairs. Sewell has a great deal at $510.00 for the pair by using the discount code 'CLUBLEXUS'. My local dealer is selling the same parts for $500.00 per side.. My shipment from Sewell should arrive today..
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Old 06-11-09, 10:25 AM   #9
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dam thats more money i have to spend... same thing with my is the driver side, keep us posted !!!!
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Old 06-11-09, 10:59 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by DASHOCKER View Post
I have the same problem. The culprit is the upper control arm ball joint.. In my case, it is the driver side only.. Lexus does not sell the ball joints seperately so you will have to purchase the upper control arm(s). It is best to buy them in pairs. Sewell has a great deal at $510.00 for the pair by using the discount code 'CLUBLEXUS'. My local dealer is selling the same parts for $500.00 per side.. My shipment from Sewell should arrive today..
$510! Lexus wants $500 per side. I want one manufacturer to say, "You know what? We're not going to rape our customers in the parts department."

Let's see.. $635 for struts and sway bar bushings.
It'll be a least $375 per door for my door lock actuators (all four are gone).
Another $1100 for the rear main seal.
Now probably another $750 for the upper control arms.

That's almost $4,000 in repairs this car has/will need this month.
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Old 06-11-09, 11:18 AM   #11
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wow!!! lol order them UCA now and put then in then report back with results haha, im feeling the same way you are... i spent like nearly 4k last month on suspension and wheels tho
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Old 06-18-09, 01:48 PM   #12
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I took it back to the dealership this morning, and had the service manager and their best technician ride with me so they could hear the noise. The technician even got behind the wheel and played around to determine exactly what it is. He was almost positive that it was the brakes.


Sure enough, 5 hours later they said the cause of the problem is all the aftermarket parts on the braking system. They said that the brakes pads are supposed to float a little bit, but what is happening is that one side is locking while the other is sliding. This is because the shim kit and fit kit, the rotors and the pads are all aftermarket.

Total cost for shim kit, fit kit, rotors, and pads...$750.00


They checked the door lock actuators too. I was quoted a price of $2,200.00 for all four doors.
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Old 06-18-09, 01:53 PM   #13
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lolz.......... that wasnt the answer i was lookin for haha, i changed that out after a few months cuzz it was starting to get erritating
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Old 06-18-09, 02:32 PM   #14
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lolz.......... that wasnt the answer i was lookin for haha, i changed that out after a few months cuzz it was starting to get erritating
Yeah me either. The technician got behind the wheel, and with the car in park, held the brake down while turning the steering wheel all the way to the right. At a certain point, you could hear a loud pop and actually feel the car jolt.

The problem with that quote, besides it is a lot more than I expected, is that it's probably higher than anyone else on this board would be quoted. Hendrick Lexus is the only Lexus dealership in Charlotte. The next closest one is in Winston-Salem(1.5 hours away), so they have an advantage and can stick it to you. They're building a new one 10 miles from where I live, but it will be owned by Hendrick too. And that is why I hate Dale Jr, Jimmie Johnson, and Jeff Gordon.

Last edited by Ckroush; 06-18-09 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 06-18-09, 02:52 PM   #15
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thats the same thing i have with my... find out and let me know, i changed out the ball joint and still does it.. idk whats next!
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