jgoodtimes

I'm in the process of removing the suspension of my '98 GS300 to install the Daizen bushing kit, but can't get either lower control arm off. The rest of the suspension is removed. Is the bolt seized to the OEM bushing shaft? On both sides?? I have a torch to try to heat the bolt a few times, and access to an air hammer, but I thought I'd ask here first. Any suggestions??

FYI, this is the alignment adjustment bolt. Im assuming that if it's rusted to the shaft, it's basicly useless that way. Can I get this bolt new for a reasonable price? It reminds me of the rear shock bolt on the 94-97 accords, just wont budge.

kit cat

iTrader: (6)

if you're talking about eccentric bolt for the camber, it was

48190-30040 cam assy, camber ($12.34)
48198-30060 cam, camber adjus ($12.57)
90080-17265 nut, flange ($2.69)

and I took it a shop to have it replaced. I pb blasted and shocked with air tools but no luck. don't you love the snow and salt?

FrankT

If you need to cut it off it's about $12.00 for the bolt...
part number 48190-30040


wow your fast Coco...

jgoodtimes

Thanks a lot guys!!

Can I get this bolt at a Toyota dealer, or Lexus only? I don'y mind mail ordering stuff, but I prefer to pick it up local. Nearest Lexus dealer is about 40min away though

kit cat

iTrader: (6)

I don't think it's shared with any toyota platform but worth a try...maybe you'll save a dollar or two .

KyleH

iTrader: (1)

Reviving one here - I'm in the middle of this fiasco on mine and need confirmation on the parts. The bolt that goes through the lower control arm actually has the cam adjuster made onto it, correct? Mine seems to, but given the age I want to be sure it's not just because the cam attached itself to the bolt head not unlike what the sleeve did with the bolt.

The prices don't really make sense... the bolt (if indeed it is WITH the CAM) is $10.60 while the cam alone is $13.34. Just kind of seems odd. So wanted to check with some folks who have been here before. Cheers.

newgsman

iTrader: (4)

I went through this fiasco several years back and I recall well the frustration of having the bolt seized solid in the control arm/sleeve. I eventually took a grinder to both the control arm and the bolt. Basically I had to cut the control arm to get good access to the bolt head.

It has been about four or five years since I did this and I have had a few alignments done since then so I think my current bolts are not seized (yet). I did put gobs of anti-seize so that may be helping to prevent this from recurring.

KyleH

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input. Yes it sucks. I got one side out with the grinder method yesterday. I'm sure the driver's side is just as bad, so I didn't put the grinder up yet. Maybe will tackle it later this week. No rush, as new bolts will take the better part of a week to ge there so I can put the new ones in.

newgsman

iTrader: (4)

I actually took the whole k-frame off in order to get good access to the control arms and bolts. I have an engine crane so it was easy to hold the motor up while I did this. I was doing a suspension change and steering bushing update at the same time so it was not that big a deal to take out the k-frame. In hind sight it would have been a good time to do the motor mounts also.