Stock camber adjustment
05-05-09, 12:44 PM
#16
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2) The 2nd way is to run an aggressive wheel setup, but with a stretched tire and camber in so that the top of the lip lines with the fender, while the bottom is cambered out, thus giving the aggressive appearance. This look is only achieved if you car is "slammed" vs. "lowered."
05-05-09, 03:59 PM
#17
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Here's my results:
Left Front Right Front
Camber: -2.5 -2.0
Caster: 8.7 9.2
Toe: 0.7 0.8
Cross Camber: -0.5
Cross Caster:-0.6
Total Toe: .14
Left Rear Right Rear
Camber: -2.8 -2.6
Toe: -.21 0
Total Toe: -.21
Thrust Angle: -0.11
This is after the alignment, any reason to why nothing is even?
Left Front Right Front
Camber: -2.5 -2.0
Caster: 8.7 9.2
Toe: 0.7 0.8
Cross Camber: -0.5
Cross Caster:-0.6
Total Toe: .14
Left Rear Right Rear
Camber: -2.8 -2.6
Toe: -.21 0
Total Toe: -.21
Thrust Angle: -0.11
This is after the alignment, any reason to why nothing is even?
05-05-09, 05:32 PM
#18
Tire life is based soley on the "look" in which you are trying to achieve. You can cut your fenders and get your wheels flush with the fender line, but without the negative camber of the wheels "coming back in" and lining with the fenders, you are not going to have the aggressive look you are hoping for.
RMM's car fitment looks aggressive, but he is also running a fat tire setup, and his car isn't "slammed."
Based on my observations, there are two approaches to an aggressive wheel setup:
1) You run a fat-tire setup with an aggressive wheel and it will be "poking" out slightly and look more like a lowered muscle car. RMM's car is a perfect example and it looks great. He will also point out that his car is setup with 0 degrees of negative camber to increase the longevity of his tires. (I would too if I had a supercharger
)
2) The 2nd way is to run an aggressive wheel setup, but with a stretched tire and camber in so that the top of the lip lines with the fender, while the bottom is cambered out, thus giving the aggressive appearance. This look is only achieved if you car is "slammed" vs. "lowered."
Its all preference in my eyes and while I chose the 2nd look for my car, I appreciate both approaches when done correctly. With that said, there isn't a middle ground between the two. Its one of the other, and not because of opinion, but simple physics and geometry.
Your tires will certainly wear out quicker on the 2nd approach.. but you at least get the option to flip them
Disclaimer: I'm sure there are points of contention to my views, which people are free to express. These are simply from my observations.
RMM's car fitment looks aggressive, but he is also running a fat tire setup, and his car isn't "slammed."
Based on my observations, there are two approaches to an aggressive wheel setup:
1) You run a fat-tire setup with an aggressive wheel and it will be "poking" out slightly and look more like a lowered muscle car. RMM's car is a perfect example and it looks great. He will also point out that his car is setup with 0 degrees of negative camber to increase the longevity of his tires. (I would too if I had a supercharger
)2) The 2nd way is to run an aggressive wheel setup, but with a stretched tire and camber in so that the top of the lip lines with the fender, while the bottom is cambered out, thus giving the aggressive appearance. This look is only achieved if you car is "slammed" vs. "lowered."
Its all preference in my eyes and while I chose the 2nd look for my car, I appreciate both approaches when done correctly. With that said, there isn't a middle ground between the two. Its one of the other, and not because of opinion, but simple physics and geometry.
Your tires will certainly wear out quicker on the 2nd approach.. but you at least get the option to flip them
Disclaimer: I'm sure there are points of contention to my views, which people are free to express. These are simply from my observations.
HAHA I almost didn't read through this thread because I knew it wasn't the set up that I was after, but surprise you made some nice comparisons that I have a different look and purpose than what "others" are trying to achieve. My goal was to put as wide a tire as I could out back for the purpose of straight line traction as well as handling. My rear tires cost $800 a pair and they have asymmetrical tread so no flipping, and camber is a no no for me.
For others I see their preference is more towards the "slammed look" and that's fine. For me I'll deal with 295 tires on 20x11 with zero camber and zero rub with 4 passengers and a trunk full of luggage.
Last edited by RMMGS4; 05-05-09 at 05:40 PM.
05-05-09, 08:16 PM
#19
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HAHA I almost didn't read through this thread because I knew it wasn't the set up that I was after, but surprise you made some nice comparisons that I have a different look and purpose than what "others" are trying to achieve. My goal was to put as wide a tire as I could out back for the purpose of straight line traction as well as handling. My rear tires cost $800 a pair and they have asymmetrical tread so no flipping, and camber is a no no for me.
For others I see their preference is more towards the "slammed look" and that's fine. For me I'll deal with 295 tires on 20x11 with zero camber and zero rub with 4 passengers and a trunk full of luggage.
For others I see their preference is more towards the "slammed look" and that's fine. For me I'll deal with 295 tires on 20x11 with zero camber and zero rub with 4 passengers and a trunk full of luggage.
And certainly appreciate the look you have achieved. 295 on a stock GS is quite impressive, with being as low as you are. The engineering and amount of detail to your car, I think, is really unmatched for as long as you have had it. A True Pioneer. I hope my reasoning and comparison was presented in a correct light. As far as I'm concerned, we both run aggressive setups, with simply the approach being different.
05-05-09, 08:41 PM
#20
And certainly appreciate the look you have achieved. 295 on a stock GS is quite impressive, with being as low as you are. The engineering and amount of detail to your car, I think, is really unmatched for as long as you have had it. A True Pioneer. I hope my reasoning and comparison was presented in a correct light. As far as I'm concerned, we both run aggressive setups, with simply the approach being different.
BTW, after waiting 3+ years, Michelin FINALLY came out with a 305/25-20 size, so that's my next set up.
05-06-09, 06:16 AM
#21
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Absolutely. I couldn't of said it better myself. I was rushing out when I last posted, but I did mean to comment I like what you've done. It's maxxed out and done right without going over the limit of practicality. When I read that Thomas and others assisted you, I was not surprised why you got it right. You're in good company. I haven't gone to Austin for my business trips for a while now, but I'll hit you guys up if I'm in town.
BTW, after waiting 3+ years, Michelin FINALLY came out with a 305/25-20 size, so that's my next set up.
BTW, after waiting 3+ years, Michelin FINALLY came out with a 305/25-20 size, so that's my next set up.
I have been blessed to have some great associations with some of the most knowledgable members in Texas.. namely Jeff, Thomas, Gio and Jun. Without them, the car wouldn't look half as good as it does.
Next time your in Texas, please let us know as meeting you would be a absolute pleasure.
Ben
05-06-09, 11:37 AM
#25
i got similar wear on the fronts. -2.1 degree on the fronts. ran falken 452's 245/30/20s on the fronts, from feb til nov, then went to winter tires. so roughly 9 months of wear. had the tires flipped before putting the 20s back on.
rears have less wear because i got the spc RCA's on.
waiting for my exact motorsport front RCA spacers now =)
rears have less wear because i got the spc RCA's on.
waiting for my exact motorsport front RCA spacers now =)
05-06-09, 12:57 PM
#26
i got similar wear on the fronts. -2.1 degree on the fronts. ran falken 452's 245/30/20s on the fronts, from feb til nov, then went to winter tires. so roughly 9 months of wear. had the tires flipped before putting the 20s back on.
rears have less wear because i got the spc RCA's on.
waiting for my exact motorsport front RCA spacers now =)
rears have less wear because i got the spc RCA's on.
waiting for my exact motorsport front RCA spacers now =)
05-06-09, 03:02 PM
#27
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Here's my results:
Left Front Right Front
Camber: -2.5 -2.0
Caster: 8.7 9.2
Toe: 0.7 0.8
Cross Camber: -0.5
Cross Caster:-0.6
Total Toe: .14
Left Rear Right Rear
Camber: -2.8 -2.6
Toe: -.21 0
Total Toe: -.21
Thrust Angle: -0.11
This is after the alignment, any reason to why nothing is even?
Left Front Right Front
Camber: -2.5 -2.0
Caster: 8.7 9.2
Toe: 0.7 0.8
Cross Camber: -0.5
Cross Caster:-0.6
Total Toe: .14
Left Rear Right Rear
Camber: -2.8 -2.6
Toe: -.21 0
Total Toe: -.21
Thrust Angle: -0.11
This is after the alignment, any reason to why nothing is even?
05-06-09, 03:57 PM
#30
How many miles is two snow seasons???
The adjustable rear RCA's should be capable of getting you to OEM rear spec. So when you say -2 is that the camber you want or do you want more positive camber. Again the adjustable rear RCAs have 3 settings. I'm only on the first setting and in spec. Even if you are slammed more than me, I would think the additional two settings should be more then enough.
The adjustable rear RCA's should be capable of getting you to OEM rear spec. So when you say -2 is that the camber you want or do you want more positive camber. Again the adjustable rear RCAs have 3 settings. I'm only on the first setting and in spec. Even if you are slammed more than me, I would think the additional two settings should be more then enough.