Two, not so common maintenance issues, UCA, and VVTI Cam Sproket O-Ring Seal..*PICS*
#16
Lead Lap
iTrader: (4)
Yea I'm having the same symtoms also, clunking sound when I'm going over speed bumbs at slow speeds and in and out of driveways. Now, did you replace the whole UCA's or just the bushings? I have to change mines also but don't know if I just need the bushing set from TM or the whole UCA Can anyone shine in on this?
#17
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Serbia
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
J0hnP,
Whats happening with your vvti pulley?
Is it leaking now?
How did you find that O ring?
Could silicone be enough?
Can you tell me when I am oppening vvti pulley, which step I have to be ceraful so dont destroy it???
Shuld I make some marks before I remove the 5 bolts????
What can go wrong?
Thanks,
Veljko
Whats happening with your vvti pulley?
Is it leaking now?
How did you find that O ring?
Could silicone be enough?
Can you tell me when I am oppening vvti pulley, which step I have to be ceraful so dont destroy it???
Shuld I make some marks before I remove the 5 bolts????
What can go wrong?
Thanks,
Veljko
#19
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: fl
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry for bringing back this thread, I did my research on this and found these threads mentioning this but did not find any actual outcome from a repair rather than buying the whole assembly and wasting $130-180 bucks.
The FSM says you should "NOT TAKE OFF" the 5 bolts, I dont know why lexus does not explain and go into detail how the internals of the vvti gear works (my nissan VQ35 engine's FSM goes into great detail on how to take it apart and put back together). Anyway, here is what I did:
Took of the cam gear assembly, placed it faceup on the ground, then slowly removed all the 5 bolts (expecting for the thing to explode since everyone says not to do so lol). Here is the important part, before or while you take out the bolts, mark or take a picture of which bolt holes go where located, look at the middle and see where the grove for the cam dowel pin is pointing at, also use the timing marks on the outer lip of the gear as reference in relation to the grove for the dowel pin. Thats pretty much all you need to mark or remember, the rest of the unit can only go back in one way so you cant make a mistake, you can only make a mistake by aligning one piece with the wrong bolt holes.
I removed the old seal that was all cracked, and filled everything with silicone,i used black RTV, a thin layer with my finger. Let it dry, then passed another thin layer over it. I did the same to the other piece. Put it back together making sure I knew which bolt holes to line up. DONE. put everything back, start the car, and no flying oil anymore lol. Also saved alot of money (to me at least). Here is a video clip of the results, you can see there is no oil flying. Later on I will post a few pictures I took. I hope this helps anyone that came across the same issue.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkjELZqs0oY
The FSM says you should "NOT TAKE OFF" the 5 bolts, I dont know why lexus does not explain and go into detail how the internals of the vvti gear works (my nissan VQ35 engine's FSM goes into great detail on how to take it apart and put back together). Anyway, here is what I did:
Took of the cam gear assembly, placed it faceup on the ground, then slowly removed all the 5 bolts (expecting for the thing to explode since everyone says not to do so lol). Here is the important part, before or while you take out the bolts, mark or take a picture of which bolt holes go where located, look at the middle and see where the grove for the cam dowel pin is pointing at, also use the timing marks on the outer lip of the gear as reference in relation to the grove for the dowel pin. Thats pretty much all you need to mark or remember, the rest of the unit can only go back in one way so you cant make a mistake, you can only make a mistake by aligning one piece with the wrong bolt holes.
I removed the old seal that was all cracked, and filled everything with silicone,i used black RTV, a thin layer with my finger. Let it dry, then passed another thin layer over it. I did the same to the other piece. Put it back together making sure I knew which bolt holes to line up. DONE. put everything back, start the car, and no flying oil anymore lol. Also saved alot of money (to me at least). Here is a video clip of the results, you can see there is no oil flying. Later on I will post a few pictures I took. I hope this helps anyone that came across the same issue.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkjELZqs0oY
#20
Instructor
Please let us know how this holds up in the long term. Could not get the video to load, but the page is there...
I also took apart the leaky VVT pulley after replacing it with a new one. No major issues with removing the 5 bolts, all I found was a cracked and brittle O ring. Personally I would rather replace the O ring than use silicone, but if you lay a perfect bead that might work also.
JeffTsai might have a source for the O rings. This pulley is very rebuild-able.
Did you take pictures of the silicone applied, just wondering...
I also took apart the leaky VVT pulley after replacing it with a new one. No major issues with removing the 5 bolts, all I found was a cracked and brittle O ring. Personally I would rather replace the O ring than use silicone, but if you lay a perfect bead that might work also.
JeffTsai might have a source for the O rings. This pulley is very rebuild-able.
Did you take pictures of the silicone applied, just wondering...
Last edited by FrankT; 03-15-10 at 05:15 PM. Reason: video did load fine
#21
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: fl
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Please let us know how this holds up in the long term. Could not get the video to load, but the page is there...
I also took apart the leaky VVT pulley after replacing it with a new one. No major issues with removing the 5 bolts, all I found was a cracked and brittle O ring. Personally I would rather replace the O ring than use silicone, but if you lay a perfect bead that might work also.
JeffTsai might have a source for the O rings. This pulley is very rebuild-able.
Did you take pictures of the silicone applied, just wondering...
I also took apart the leaky VVT pulley after replacing it with a new one. No major issues with removing the 5 bolts, all I found was a cracked and brittle O ring. Personally I would rather replace the O ring than use silicone, but if you lay a perfect bead that might work also.
JeffTsai might have a source for the O rings. This pulley is very rebuild-able.
Did you take pictures of the silicone applied, just wondering...
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...i/FILE0102.jpg
My silicone job: http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...i/FILE0101.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...i/FILE0100.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...i/FILE0099.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...i/FILE0098.jpg
#23
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I have a bag full of those O-rings in Viton material. I spec'd it out and custom ordered a set. I just moved to a new house so all the parts are in big boxes. I forgot which box I put them in, but I have like 100 sitting around somewhere lol. Just need to go digging around to find them.
#25
Instructor
#26
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: May 2009
Location: ohio
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just had my VVti pulley changes also due to leaking. Dang thing cost 160.00!! I wish Id known bout the O ring. I had no idea what was inside the pulley, mechanic had no idea either. He just kept sayin how the manual says to NEVER take apart the pulley. Looks like I got a 160.00 paper weight now.
#28
good post, i'm pretty sure anyone of us can run into this problem anytime soon, at least we've found another place to look if we have any leaks. matter of fact i'm actually starting to have a small one also....
#30
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: fl
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your welcome FrankT, I am a big fan to contributing to forums when possible, feels good to know people can benefit from things like this, hell the reason I can build an engine and do anything possible on a car is because of forums lol.
If one can put an O ring rather than add silicone I think it would be great, but I still think the silicone will be able to hold for a very long time.
btw Jeff, sweet ride man.
Edit: I just realized Jeff that you were the guy that helped me with the whole timing belt, seal replacement through your videos lol. THANX!
If one can put an O ring rather than add silicone I think it would be great, but I still think the silicone will be able to hold for a very long time.
btw Jeff, sweet ride man.
Edit: I just realized Jeff that you were the guy that helped me with the whole timing belt, seal replacement through your videos lol. THANX!
Last edited by streetz; 03-23-10 at 10:54 PM.