tried spraying it and nothing, didnt break the sensor i hooked it all back up..
Car threw a code for OCV so i cleaned the ocv, code was gone, changed the sparkplugs twice.. still misfiring...
injectors are spraying fine..
Hey guys, my name is julien I bought a ls400 perfect condition. The guy told me it needed a stater I didn't think it was a big deal I've changed starters. but when I got home I found out the starter is in the middle of the engine. I am going to dive in to this project soon. (This thread is Defintley going to help thanks) It seems like the starter isn't fully engaging like it is poping out half way and spinning not engaging the flywheel. I am curious if I can get away with driving it like this for maybe a month untill I'm ready. Sometimes it starts fine 3-4 times in a row then some times I have to turn key off then back on once or twice then starts.
I am the person that started this thread 4 years ago. I can't believe its still going. I am glad it was able to help a few people.
As for Project's question, I would suggest doing the starter as soon as you can, as you never know when it will be the last time the car will start. That being said, we drove our car for a few months until I was able to finally do the repair. A friend of mine had the same problem and drove it for a long time as well.
Couple of things I wish I knew before I did this DIY
1) The starter is very difficult to take out (the bolts that hold it to the flywheel and engine bay are very hard to get to) but you can remove the solenoid (i.e. the part with the contacts and plunger) w/o removing the entire starter. This helps b/c you do not have to resit the starter on the flywheel. This saves money and time. Remanned starters don't really provide any advantage over just replacing the contacts and plunger
3) Be careful of the knock sensors. The plastic gets brittle over time
2) This is a tiring one-man job. Have a friend to help you when removing the intake manifold
3) You need an extension to get the bolts which hold the manifold down. Use a tighten pattern similar to a wheel. Hand thread and then torque down to spec in a star-like pattern. The bolts towards the firewall are hard to get good torque on; do not strip them
4) The throttle cable comes off but it is a easy removal.
5) You cannot take off the throttle body off the manifold until you have taken the intake manifold bolts off. Good time to clean the throttle body
6) You will spill coolant
I just did everything thats in this post and now my 1998 gs 400 will start but will cut off right after it turns over. If i rev the engine and keep my foot on the acelerator it will stay running for about 2 seconds and then shut off. Checked everything but cant find the problem
Check all the lines and plugs again..might be a bad solenoid on the starter..
I need to take off the intake manifold and throttle body to replace a knock sensor and i'm just starting to think about doing the starter contacts replacement preventive at 110.000 mls..
can someone explain on which point the coolant needs to be drained and why? is the throttle body heated?
Hi I just replaced my starter on gs400 1999. I ma having the same issue as yours. the car starts and shuts of immediately. If I spray some starting fluid then the car will run as long as I spraying the fluid. Also I checked the fuel and I am getting fuel in the fuel rail. Any input would be appreciated. I have checked all the connections and everything looks tight
Looks like I am doing this service soon. Could you guys please tell me if its worth doing the Timing belt while I am there? How much extra labor would be involved after the intake manifold is removed to replace the timing belt.
I'm also in same situation. Is this job worth doing timing belt and water pump at the same time??
I did this over the weekend and thought I would share my experience
Just a couple of notes on this install.
1-Have friend to help out when you're ready to remove the manifold
2-you have enough room to get to the starter bolts once the intake manifold is off.
3- be careful when putting the manifold back on. I broke my coolant temp. sensor when I was doing mine. it's on the passenger side right behind the thermostat housing.
It cost me $25 to but a new one at Advance Auto Parts. I was getting a p0115 code and the car was in limp mode.
Ok I think that's all. Thanks DeLorean00 for the write up and pictures. It was very helpful.
Wait... So you're pretty much saying there's more than one coolant temp sensor??