questnyc

My A/C was blowing hot air so I replaced my compressor and bought an aftermarket condensor. ITs blowing cool air but its not cool enough. I put the temp on 65 degress and blast it to the max. When i first purchased my car the max was freezing cold. Does anyone know what the problem might be and how to fix it. Thanks

BCP43002

Did you check to see if you are properly charged or leaking? Try these steps first:

A complete check of the mechanics and performance of the A/C system
will quickly reveal areas in need of attention. You can perform simple
and easy-to-do sight, sound and touch" checks before starting the
vehicle or attempting to run the A/C system. These include:
1. Verify outlet temperature (35° 45° F) with a Performance Test (see
Performance Testing in this section).
2. Coolant Level  An overheated engine will not achieve full cooling
performance.
3. Compressor drive belt tension  At full load, the compressor
requires high drive torque to drive the belt. The Vehicle Repair
Manual specifies the correct tension.
A blinking A/C light indicates a possible compressor lockup situation.
After making any necessary adjustments, carefully observe what
happens right after starting the engine and switching ON the A/C.
4. Listen for the loud click" that indicates the compressor clutch has
engaged (energized). Observe any unusual compressor noises.
Confirm that the electric fans immediately run at low speed.
5. Look into the sight glass (on receiver-drier, if available):
• It should appear clear, as liquid refrigerant with a few bubbles of
vapor flowing out of the receiver-drier (an almost empty system
will also appear clear).
• Excessive bubbles may indicate an undercharged system.
• A cloudy flow indicates the desiccant has escaped from its bag
container or there is moisture in the system.
• If there is no movement visible, just cloudy streaks, the system is
empty.
6. Carefully touch accessible refrigerant lines to confirm system
operation:
• Low-pressure lines should feel cold to the touch. In humid
weather, moisture may condense on these lines.
• High-pressure lines should be hot to the touch.
• A high-pressure line that feels cold indicates a pressure drop due
to an obstruction in the system such as a clogged fitting or a
crushed refrigerant line.

questnyc

damn thanks what part of jersey are you from. maybe you can check it out for me lol

FIVEOHinNJ

Did you also realize it was like 1000 degrees the last couple of days here in the tri-state? It's not the car, it's outside the car..

phillygs3

iTrader: (5)

Yeah when its real hot its harder to get the car cool. especially all that leather it really helps to park in the shade. but check the refridgerent levels

BCP43002

I'm out in Hunterdon County.

wowitztai

iTrader: (1)

Crazy..my AC was blowing cold as hell today..had my windows fogged at level 2..**** it retarted cold

tommyjaix

my a/c is freezing cold even in the 100+ weather..take ur car to a shop, I knoe a great shop owned by a lexus master tech with cheap prices in flushing.

GWELEX

I had a similar issue, radiator was clogged between the fins with various debris over the years. I went to a self service car wash and with a high pressure wand rinsed the radiator out. First from the engine side and then from the grill side. Ice cold air again. It's not easy to do from the engine side, lot's of stuff in the way, but it can be done.

BCP43002

Here's something else to make you think:

A variety of maintenance conditions can affect the A/C system that
may not be revealed by standard diagnostic procedures.
• If a system does not blow sufficient air, check for obstructions of the
fresh air intake or body exhauster vents outside the vehicle.
• Restricted (clogged) fresh air filter behind glove box needs replacement.
• The expansion valve may fail in the open mode as a result of debris
in the system (perhaps from a past malfunction). The expansion
valve can also seize in the closed position due to a loss of lubricant.
Apparent expansion valve failure may simply be a case of the
capillary tube (sensing bulb") not being in contact with the
evaporator outlet line.
• Paper, leaves and mud can clog the condenser fins. This reduces
system performance and can cause overheating and a blown fusible
plug or relief valve. The debris can often be blown out with
compressed air or a water hose. If necessary, special combs" are
available to straighten bent condenser fins.
A system which does not produce cool air or blows a visible mist
(even though the fan works) may have one of two malfunctions:*
1. An iced evaporator. This can be caused by using MAX cooling
with a low fan speed or a failure in the thermistor/amplifier unit
(to be discussed in A/C controls).
2. The evaporator drain hose may be clogged with leaves or mud
which will cause the evaporator housing to fill with ice and
water. This will restrict airflow. A wet carpet is one symptom of
a clogged evaporator drainline.
* Some mist or fog can normally occur on humid days when the
system is first switched ON.
• A simple way to check the operation of the electric fan system is to
unplug the coolant temperature switch or refrigerant pressure
switch while the ignition is ON. This will result in the fans running
at HIGH speed

Every system will slowly lose refrigerant through the front
compressor seal, especially if the system is unused for long periods
and the lip seal dries out. It is not unusual to lose half a pound each
year. At this rate, the system will lose its effectiveness in two to
three years. This slow leak will not be apparent during normal
maintenance and is too small to be detected with a leak checker.
• A system that loses more than half a pound per year has a real
leak. Leaking front seals may be easy to diagnose due to the oil
stains on the clutch and in front of the compressor. The seal is
easily replaced and on some models it can be done without
removing the compressor. When handling the front seal, always
coat your fingers in oil to prevent body oils and acids from etching
the delicate sealing surface.