Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
08-31-11, 09:42 PM
#736
I replaced my rear passenger motor thanks to this guide. It was pretty easy.
But I ordered one of the non mabuchi motors from ebay. Well it has started to fail again. Its been maybe 6 months. So I am going to order an actual mabuchi motor this time. Its only a few more bux anyway. Hopefully this one will last longer.
I wonder how many other people have experienced this????
Thanks to everyone who helped with this guide!!
But I ordered one of the non mabuchi motors from ebay. Well it has started to fail again. Its been maybe 6 months. So I am going to order an actual mabuchi motor this time. Its only a few more bux anyway. Hopefully this one will last longer.
I wonder how many other people have experienced this????
Thanks to everyone who helped with this guide!!
09-07-11, 04:12 AM
#737
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the $15 motor is a awesome fix. did mine last weekend. super easy!!! theres also 2 videos on youtube also that helped. now i just wish they sold replacement door jamb switch
09-11-11, 07:03 AM
#738
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Replaced my front driver and rear passenger yesterday. I had to say I was nervous as I am not good at this...but it's very easy...For rear passenger I didn't have to take window or outside door control, but I did for the front driver. Just take your time and be careful....It's very doable....to me rear is much easier than front...
09-19-11, 04:14 PM
#740
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Thanks for all who contributed on this topic. I purchased the following 4-pack MABUCHI motors and did all my doors except my Driver's door. Its odd since you would think that it is the one with the most use.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=110717575568
Did the front and rear doors with the windows up. No need to remove the rear door handle( it is impossible on the GS, anyways, since one of the bolts is behind the lock assembly itself).
Couple of tips:
1. Carefull with the front door plastic snaps that hold the linkage rods to the door handle. If it breaks, it's $6 at the dealer, might not be in stock. Carefully lift the plastic snap fron the rod shaft, then pull the rod end from the door handle. Rear doors do not have these linkage rods.
2. On swapping the motor fitting/gear, I held the rear stub of the motor shaft on a vise(near one side of the vise), grabbed the fitting with the claw of a hammer and gave this hammer a good blow with second hammer. Just keep an eye on the fitting, it will fly out. If you hold the entire motor on the vise, you might pull through the entire shaft out of the armature/rotor, but who cares if you damage the old motor, right? But, if there is a hobby shop nearby, just buy the gear puller that someone else mentioned on this thread.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=110717575568
Did the front and rear doors with the windows up. No need to remove the rear door handle( it is impossible on the GS, anyways, since one of the bolts is behind the lock assembly itself).
Couple of tips:
1. Carefull with the front door plastic snaps that hold the linkage rods to the door handle. If it breaks, it's $6 at the dealer, might not be in stock. Carefully lift the plastic snap fron the rod shaft, then pull the rod end from the door handle. Rear doors do not have these linkage rods.
2. On swapping the motor fitting/gear, I held the rear stub of the motor shaft on a vise(near one side of the vise), grabbed the fitting with the claw of a hammer and gave this hammer a good blow with second hammer. Just keep an eye on the fitting, it will fly out. If you hold the entire motor on the vise, you might pull through the entire shaft out of the armature/rotor, but who cares if you damage the old motor, right? But, if there is a hobby shop nearby, just buy the gear puller that someone else mentioned on this thread.
09-27-11, 01:28 AM
#742
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Hey everyone, I did this fix for my passenger front doors and they worked for several months and then start slipping and making a buzzing noise. I know it is the coupling on the shaft because I originally heated it up and everything and probably ruined it so I went back in and just epoxyied the filling between the white gear and the brass coupling on my motor.
Well long story short, does anyone know a very secure way of making or making sure the original coupling stays tight on the motor shaft? I am thinking about welding the shaft and the coupling together but that seems a bit extreme.
Well long story short, does anyone know a very secure way of making or making sure the original coupling stays tight on the motor shaft? I am thinking about welding the shaft and the coupling together but that seems a bit extreme.
09-27-11, 05:30 PM
#743
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Hey guys I just did my driver front and rear door today. Now if i use the key on the driver door it wont lock and unlock all doors, or roll the all the windows down. The remote will also not do anything, it blinks but wont lock unlock or open the trunk. When the car goes into gear all the doors lock(yeah the actuators are all fixed!). They also work from the driver door switch panel with no issue. Any ideas on whats going on? Is there a fuse I may have blew? Or maybe something needs to be reset? Thanks for any help fellas.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...-tutorial.html
10-15-11, 10:13 AM
#745
Wow! Great job on the pic's and posts.
Now....since I may not have searched enough, tell me plz.
3 of the door locks when using the lock switch on the drivers door do NOT lock.
This also happens when I'm using the key lock when outside the car.
What you have done...has to be done on all doors where locks do not work?
or is it just the Drivers door switch that needs replacing?
Thanks a ton....anyone? I have RX 300 yr 2000
Now....since I may not have searched enough, tell me plz.
3 of the door locks when using the lock switch on the drivers door do NOT lock.
This also happens when I'm using the key lock when outside the car.
What you have done...has to be done on all doors where locks do not work?
or is it just the Drivers door switch that needs replacing?
Thanks a ton....anyone? I have RX 300 yr 2000
10-15-11, 08:57 PM
#746
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Debonair was nice enough to help me today at my friend's shop. We fixed my 01 GS430 front passenger door. I followed the youtube DIY. After the installation, Deb and I figured out that the window does not need to be removed. Thank you very much Debonair for your help. We should start a side business on fixing the door actuators, haha.
10-16-11, 12:03 AM
#747
Yep. Window does not have to be removed at all. Just roll up the window all the way until you can reach the rods connected to the handle.
I'll probably end up doing my driver side door soon since it's the only one that may die soon. I'm just not looking forward to it since I have so much sound deadening material covering up the door.
I'll probably end up doing my driver side door soon since it's the only one that may die soon. I'm just not looking forward to it since I have so much sound deadening material covering up the door.
10-16-11, 12:33 AM
#748
iModerate
Debonair was nice enough to help me today at my friend's shop. We fixed my 01 GS430 front passenger door. I followed the youtube DIY. After the installation, Deb and I figured out that the window does not need to be removed. Thank you very much Debonair for your help. We should start a side business on fixing the door actuators, haha.
10-17-11, 08:29 PM
#750
So.....the link to ebay
is good for $20 for 4.
I thought these are very cheap...like a buck a piece from another
post on the forum.
From what I just read on the last few posts...you DO have
to change each door lock.
I thought these are very cheap...like a buck a piece from another
post on the forum.
From what I just read on the last few posts...you DO have
to change each door lock.