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I tried search option for this thread but can't find any matches. Has anyone done this on a 2013 GS350? Just wanted to check if this is the correct motor for my car. FC-280PC-22125. Is the shaft 10 or 20 mm, and is it round or D shaped. Thanks!
I tried search option for this thread but can't find any matches. Has anyone done this on a 2013 GS350? Just wanted to check if this is the correct motor for my car. FC-280PC-22125. Is the shaft 10 or 20 mm, and is it round or D shaped. Thanks!
I don't know about a 2013, but I'll offer a suggestion based on my experience with my 2003 GS 300. Don't get the motor. Get the small unit that encases the motor. To get the motor out and replace it means you have to crack the case open, take the motor and using a very small gear puller, remove the gear. And then put it back together so it stays together.
When I replaced a failed motor in my back door, I bought a case for about $20 on ebay. The motor is $5 to $10, if you get the right one. The small case fits right into the larger actuator unit, the one with all of the rods and levers attached. Much easier for just a few dollars more.
I did an eBay search for year, make, model, door lock actuator, front or back, and right or left.
I don't know about a 2013, but I'll offer a suggestion based on my experience with my 2003 GS 300. Don't get the motor. Get the small unit that encases the motor. To get the motor out and replace it means you have to crack the case open, take the motor and using a very small gear puller, remove the gear. And then put it back together so it stays together.
When I replaced a failed motor in my back door, I bought a case for about $20 on ebay. The motor is $5 to $10, if you get the right one. The small case fits right into the larger actuator unit, the one with all of the rods and levers attached. Much easier for just a few dollars more.
I did an eBay search for year, make, model, door lock actuator, front or back, and right or left.
Thanks Kenn for the suggestion. I guess that would be a lot less work then doing the surgery work to get the motor out. Looks like this is a complete actuator replacement. Found one from 1Auto with lifetime warranty replacement. I just hope these are quality parts that'll last.
I spent a great deal of time reading through the pages and pages back to 2008 of great write up DIY!! But it looks like today the units are readily available so no need to remove the motor etc as WaitupGuys and Garris1 indicated.
I did a search on ebay for 2003 GS430 and found several 4 door package deals and even more singles.
This seller in particular is local to me and has returns etc and I'll be ordering from them soon. Need a trunk actuator as well.
Now I am considering replacing the speakers while I'm in the door ...
As a previous owner of a Jensen Healy where I had to make many of my own parts etc, I really appreciated all the hard work put in by the countless group members in figuring out how to fix these actuators!!
I don't know about a 2013, but I'll offer a suggestion based on my experience with my 2003 GS 300. Don't get the motor. Get the small unit that encases the motor. To get the motor out and replace it means you have to crack the case open, take the motor and using a very small gear puller, remove the gear. And then put it back together so it stays together.
When I replaced a failed motor in my back door, I bought a case for about $20 on ebay. The motor is $5 to $10, if you get the right one. The small case fits right into the larger actuator unit, the one with all of the rods and levers attached. Much easier for just a few dollars more.
I did an eBay search for year, make, model, door lock actuator, front or back, and right or left.
Back when I replaced the motor, the actuator assemblies were very expensive around $150-200 a piece if I remember correctly. That's why this solution was created. Mine eventually failed again and nowadays a set of 4 actuators goes for around $40 or so which was a no brainer for me to just purchase them and replace the whole assembly.
Back when I replaced the motor, the actuator assemblies were very expensive around $150-200 a piece if I remember correctly. That's why this solution was created. Mine eventually failed again and nowadays a set of 4 actuators goes for around $40 or so which was a no brainer for me to just purchase them and replace the whole assembly.
Where is the fun in that? Crack them open and go full on DYI
For your speakers, do some research. If you have an ML system you should just refoam them. The ohm ratings are different than most aftermarket speakers.
Yep. I've replaced 7 of them and the window stays in. There are many bad lock acuators on ebay. But I think I found one that's good. If I find the history I will let you guys know. It's a 30 min job. Use canned air upside down and freeze the vapor seal and the plastic peels off ,also get your hand on the handle,lift it and reach in and grab the lever on the assy and it will be easier to remove.
Yep. I've replaced 7 of them and the window stays in. There are many bad lock acuators on ebay. But I think I found one that's good. If I find the history I will let you guys know. It's a 30 min job. Use canned air upside down and freeze the vapor seal and the plastic peels off ,also get your hand on the handle,lift it and reach in and grab the lever on the assy and it will be easier to remove.
Yep. I've replaced 7 of them and the window stays in. There are many bad lock acuators on ebay. But I think I found one that's good. If I find the history I will let you guys know. It's a 30 min job. Use canned air upside down and freeze the vapor seal and the plastic peels off ,also get your hand on the handle,lift it and reach in and grab the lever on the assy and it will be easier to remove.
Wouldn't that harden and ruin the adhesive on the vapor barrier? I just pull the plastic up a bit to stretch the adhesive and use a box cutter knife to cut through it. Just be careful not to cut any part of the plastic and after you're done just seal it back with the existing adhesive.
Where can I get a set of actuators? Luxious Auto is sold out and no longer offering any more in the future, and the other option is the $36 sets on Ebay, and I am not sure of their reliability. Can annyone recommend a source besides OEM?
Where can I get a set of actuators? Luxious Auto is sold out and no longer offering any more in the future, and the other option is the $36 sets on Ebay, and I am not sure of their reliability. Can annyone recommend a source besides OEM?
Are you wanting the whole actuator or just the motors? I bought a complete refurbished actuator off eBay from a guy that only rebuilds them but they range from about $125 -$175 each and you send him back your non-working actuators. I couldn't get just the motors to work so I just went for a rebuilt actuator and it was much easier to deal with.
Are you wanting the whole actuator or just the motors? I bought a complete refurbished actuator off eBay from a guy that only rebuilds them but they range from about $125 -$175 each and you send him back your non-working actuators. I couldn't get just the motors to work so I just went for a rebuilt actuator and it was much easier to deal with.
Thats actuatorsplus, I think. Anyway I ended up ordering the 4 set of Mabuchi 10mm round shaft motors and a Torx T30 bit. Ill try the motor swap or maybe the chinese ebay ones, and if that dosent work, ill get the rebilt OEM ones.
Did the 4 on my 2004 GS300. Got the motors from ebay, and a gear puller. Split the housings with a razor and small hammer. I had downloaded the instructional videos from youtube onto my laptop and followed long with the instructions. Replaced motors and screwed them back together, no glue. Rear right took an hour, rear left took half. Front right took an hour and the front driver a half. Fixed the cable with a paper clip, my friend helped with a second pair of pliers / wire clipper. The locks all work great. I was nervous but the videos and info in this forum helped. I have no mechanical experience, but with preparation, tools, and patience I did it.
The 10mm round shaft motors from zinky rear pass door took an hour rear driver took a half hour Drivers side cable broke, did the paper clip fix.
I've tried a few things and I prefer using a PVC primer and cement. It seals pretty strong and it seems the glue is mostly to seal out the dust and what not, because there's two screws that holds the assembly together. I had to take it apart three times because when I lubricated the gears and contacts with Super Lube high temp, dielectric, extreme pressure silicone grease, the spring and gear popped loose in a different position.
11-30-18, 03:07 PM
