Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
10-19-11, 07:27 AM
#751
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Replacing the door lock actuators
Thanks to the information provided in this forum, I replaced the motors in three doors (the fourth hasn't failed yet). The cost of four motors was around $20 on eBay.
I had a Toyota/Lexus repair shop, Charles Automotive, in Rockviile MD do the replacement for around $125 a door. Not as inexpensive as DIY, but a whole better than replacing the complete door lock actuator, especially by a dealer.
Kenn
I had a Toyota/Lexus repair shop, Charles Automotive, in Rockviile MD do the replacement for around $125 a door. Not as inexpensive as DIY, but a whole better than replacing the complete door lock actuator, especially by a dealer.
Kenn
10-19-11, 07:58 AM
#752
iModerate
$20 for four is a good/average price. I paid $6 for one. I have not seen them for $1 each in small quantities, maybe if you buy 100 of them .
You only have to replace the motor(s) that has failed and needs to be replaced, I have only had one fail so I have only replaced one.
10-22-11, 04:02 PM
#754
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Well, my front and rear driver side door lock motors were dying/dead. I ordered 2 motors for $10 shipped off eBay. I have done a fair amount of work on cars (especially on my 2004 STi, trying to just use my 2003 GS300 SE as more of a daily driver and leave it stock). Even then I would say that anyone with some basic ability can do this with time, patience, and the right tools. If you grew up still trying to fit a square peg in a round hole then you might be in over your head.
I started at 2:30pm and finished at 6pm. That included a 20+ minutes of rounding up tools, 15+ minutes chatting with the mailman, and 20+ minutes pulling the door panels off a second time (got stupid and forgot to secure the necks on the door levers on both so handles wouldn't open the door from the inside). I could probably do both doors under 2 hours pretty easy now that I know what I am doing.
I found the rear door a little trickier to get the mechanism out. I did pull but outside handles, I just found that easier (the rear can be pulled after moving the mechanism around some to get to the hidden handle bolt). The rear casing came apart pretty easily (razor knife and hammer), the front was a PITA but finally got it open.
I thought the collar was pretty easy to remove the way I did it. I just get the very end of some needle nose pliers holding the metal shaft between the collar and the motor, and use a hammer on the motor to drive it down along the jaws of the needle nose pliers, the increasing wedge of the shape of the pliers pushes the collar right off (I hope that made sense, would be easier in pictures/video).
Anyway, long story short, a few hours of effort and $10, and I saved what the dealership would have charged over $1000 for. Thanks to everyone in this post who contributed all the helpful information. Not having my remote open on my car sucked, especially with winter coming up.
Chris
I started at 2:30pm and finished at 6pm. That included a 20+ minutes of rounding up tools, 15+ minutes chatting with the mailman, and 20+ minutes pulling the door panels off a second time (got stupid and forgot to secure the necks on the door levers on both so handles wouldn't open the door from the inside). I could probably do both doors under 2 hours pretty easy now that I know what I am doing.
I found the rear door a little trickier to get the mechanism out. I did pull but outside handles, I just found that easier (the rear can be pulled after moving the mechanism around some to get to the hidden handle bolt). The rear casing came apart pretty easily (razor knife and hammer), the front was a PITA but finally got it open.
I thought the collar was pretty easy to remove the way I did it. I just get the very end of some needle nose pliers holding the metal shaft between the collar and the motor, and use a hammer on the motor to drive it down along the jaws of the needle nose pliers, the increasing wedge of the shape of the pliers pushes the collar right off (I hope that made sense, would be easier in pictures/video).
Anyway, long story short, a few hours of effort and $10, and I saved what the dealership would have charged over $1000 for. Thanks to everyone in this post who contributed all the helpful information. Not having my remote open on my car sucked, especially with winter coming up.
Chris
10-25-11, 05:36 PM
#755
Sup all. Been a while. I am going to update you all on the motors that I have replaced.
So far, I have replaced all the door actuators. One I replaced brand new from Lexus, part of the CPO dealio.
The other 3, Both rear and driver side, I replaced doing this fix.
All the motors feel the same. It has been years since I fixed the first one. Months since I fixed the last one.
I actually took some pics with pliers holding the motor collar and using a screw to take the gear off. I'll try to post them shortly.
So yea, all motors feel and act same. This fix is the ultimate dope sauce.
So far, I have replaced all the door actuators. One I replaced brand new from Lexus, part of the CPO dealio.
The other 3, Both rear and driver side, I replaced doing this fix.
All the motors feel the same. It has been years since I fixed the first one. Months since I fixed the last one.
I actually took some pics with pliers holding the motor collar and using a screw to take the gear off. I'll try to post them shortly.
So yea, all motors feel and act same. This fix is the ultimate dope sauce.
10-26-11, 04:04 PM
#756
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Just finished replacing my driver side door lock actuator. It took me about 65 minutes from start to finish. That's because I had a replacement actuator that I've had for a while. But still not bad for my first try. Next will be the passenger side, just waiting on the replacement motor. This thread was very helpful and made the process go smooth.
Last edited by 77i9; 10-26-11 at 08:59 PM.
11-08-11, 01:41 PM
#757
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So the replacement motor that I got from ebay(seller name NOODLEHED) came in last week. I was busy last week so yesterday I opened up the actuator that I swapped from the driver side door. Lo and behold the ebay motor is not a match, the terminals are on the wrong side! The motor that I got is the FC-280PT-20150, which the seller claimed is interchangeable with the FC-280PT-22125 and FC-280PC-22125. There's even a link to this thread on the seller's auction page. Then I went ahead and sent a message to the seller asking how we can resolve the issue. I know it has only been a day but I haven't gotten a response from the seller yet. I know that $10 for two motors is not such a big deal, but if I expect to get what I paid for.
11-19-11, 08:55 PM
#758
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Thanks for the information on this forum.
It helped me get my door lock fixed on our vehicle.
The lock on the door slowly got "lazier" over time. If I locked and unlocked repeatedly, the lock would have less and less actuation.
When I disassembled the door lock, and took out the motor, I drove the motor with a bench/test power supply and the motor would spin, but slow down over the next 5-10 seconds until it would not turn.
Since it was broken, I thought I'd determine "root cause". I pulled the motor apart to look inside.
It looks like the ~10mm x 8mm plate that conducts electricity through to the contacts of the commutator increases in resistance with prolonged use and prevents the windings from burning out. I think that's why the motor ran slower and slower from start to about 10-15 seconds.
But the most interesting thing I found was the root cause. The plastic cap was full of black greasy. it was probably a combination of grease and worn particles. I cleaned everything out with a low viscosity spray, but it still didn't work very well. My guess was that the motor was drawing too much current probably due to the windings being shorted. However the bench supply said otherwise. It didn't read like the motor was shorted. I've seen where debris with grease can cause a low-resistance bridge and it turned out that was true. The crud that was stuck between the commutators was conducting electricity so less current was going through the coils. I used a pin to clean out the crevice between the two commutators and voila, the motor worked 20x better. I then reassembled everything the now the door lock is working. Total cost $0. Total time 3 hours.
These motors are only $6 on ebay so it's probably easiest to just order one before starting the job, but I didn't do that ahead of time and didn't want to wait for one to be shipped to me.
CLEAN THE GAP BETWEEN THE COMMUTATORS WITH A PIN. THAT FIXED IT FOR ME!
It helped me get my door lock fixed on our vehicle.
The lock on the door slowly got "lazier" over time. If I locked and unlocked repeatedly, the lock would have less and less actuation.
When I disassembled the door lock, and took out the motor, I drove the motor with a bench/test power supply and the motor would spin, but slow down over the next 5-10 seconds until it would not turn.
Since it was broken, I thought I'd determine "root cause". I pulled the motor apart to look inside.
It looks like the ~10mm x 8mm plate that conducts electricity through to the contacts of the commutator increases in resistance with prolonged use and prevents the windings from burning out. I think that's why the motor ran slower and slower from start to about 10-15 seconds.
But the most interesting thing I found was the root cause. The plastic cap was full of black greasy. it was probably a combination of grease and worn particles. I cleaned everything out with a low viscosity spray, but it still didn't work very well. My guess was that the motor was drawing too much current probably due to the windings being shorted. However the bench supply said otherwise. It didn't read like the motor was shorted. I've seen where debris with grease can cause a low-resistance bridge and it turned out that was true. The crud that was stuck between the commutators was conducting electricity so less current was going through the coils. I used a pin to clean out the crevice between the two commutators and voila, the motor worked 20x better. I then reassembled everything the now the door lock is working. Total cost $0. Total time 3 hours.
These motors are only $6 on ebay so it's probably easiest to just order one before starting the job, but I didn't do that ahead of time and didn't want to wait for one to be shipped to me.
CLEAN THE GAP BETWEEN THE COMMUTATORS WITH A PIN. THAT FIXED IT FOR ME!
Has anybody else tried this?
11-21-11, 04:44 AM
#759
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I have performed this service on both passenger side doors of my 2004 LS430. The locks are operating well after several months.
Last edited by Debonair; 11-21-11 at 07:07 AM.
11-21-11, 08:23 AM
#760
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So the replacement motor that I got from ebay(seller name NOODLEHED) came in last week. I was busy last week so yesterday I opened up the actuator that I swapped from the driver side door. Lo and behold the ebay motor is not a match, the terminals are on the wrong side! The motor that I got is the FC-280PT-20150, which the seller claimed is interchangeable with the FC-280PT-22125 and FC-280PC-22125. There's even a link to this thread on the seller's auction page. Then I went ahead and sent a message to the seller asking how we can resolve the issue. I know it has only been a day but I haven't gotten a response from the seller yet. I know that $10 for two motors is not such a big deal, but if I expect to get what I paid for.
He then stole the models list from zinky86. Problem? The model list is for FC-280PC-22125 or FC-280PT-22125. Noodlehed has been notified. His reply? "I have the model number listed in the auction. If people cannot read the model number, then they should not be doing a DIY. It's not item misrepresentation"
Last edited by azink769; 11-21-11 at 08:28 AM.
11-21-11, 02:49 PM
#761
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after emailing ebay seller NOODLEHED that motor is not compatible with the GS400, he replied and informed me that the auction listing has been revised. So, I checked ebay and the listing was never changed. I sent another email stating that his listing never got changed and I got a reply with a link to a listing where the only change was that the GS400 was removed from the list of vehicle. The link to this thread was still on there. I also checked his other listing and they still list the GS400. Another thing is that I mailed the motor back to him because I have no use for it. I emailed him and asked if they received it and he said that the warehouse has not informed him whether they received it or not. He asked me if I have tracking number. Luckily I got delivery confirmation just in case something like this happened. They received it on Nov 12 and I guess nobody bothered to inform him of this. So now I'm waiting on his reply. Oh another thing I forgot to mention is that he told me I had to leave a positive feedback on ebay before my refund could be processed. This was at the beginning before I even sent back the motor.
11-21-11, 04:07 PM
#762
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On a more positive note, the new motor that I ordered came Saturday.
It was the correct motor, so THANK YOU VERY MUCH AZINK769 - I got the motor from him.
So today I went to work on replacing my front passenger side actuator.
The removal went smoothly and fairly fast since I've done this on my driver side before.
The part that took me a while was splitting the casing that houses the motor.
I took my time to ensure that the plastic doesn't break since it's kinda brittle.
I used a small knife and a small hammer.
I also used nail polish remover to dissolve the glue that holds the case together.
I removed the old motor, slapped in the new motor, and super glued the casing.
After a couple of minutes of drying I installed the actuator assembly.
Did an optest and it was satisfactory.
Now all my door locks work with the remote! Woohoooo!!!!
It was the correct motor, so THANK YOU VERY MUCH AZINK769 - I got the motor from him.
So today I went to work on replacing my front passenger side actuator.
The removal went smoothly and fairly fast since I've done this on my driver side before.
The part that took me a while was splitting the casing that houses the motor.
I took my time to ensure that the plastic doesn't break since it's kinda brittle.
I used a small knife and a small hammer.
I also used nail polish remover to dissolve the glue that holds the case together.
I removed the old motor, slapped in the new motor, and super glued the casing.
After a couple of minutes of drying I installed the actuator assembly.
Did an optest and it was satisfactory.
Now all my door locks work with the remote! Woohoooo!!!!
11-22-11, 10:48 PM
#763
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Sale!!!
I wanted to pop in and thank the op and everyone who contributed to this thread.
i just picked up my gs400 and this is one of a few tiny problems i will be taking care of in the next few weeks.
i found this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-pk-MABUCHI...#ht_1481wt_702
For sale for $19.77 with free shipping. The extra five dollars off and the valets at my work that i don't trust to manually lock it every time are all the motivation i need.
Says the sale only lasts a few more days so i figured id post this for others that might be looking toward the bottom of these posts for the motor link as i was.
Oh! It's the good seller too!
i just picked up my gs400 and this is one of a few tiny problems i will be taking care of in the next few weeks.
i found this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-pk-MABUCHI...#ht_1481wt_702
For sale for $19.77 with free shipping. The extra five dollars off and the valets at my work that i don't trust to manually lock it every time are all the motivation i need.
Says the sale only lasts a few more days so i figured id post this for others that might be looking toward the bottom of these posts for the motor link as i was.
Oh! It's the good seller too!
11-23-11, 10:15 PM
#764
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Door actuators
This info is really helpful.So far i tried to replace the motor on one of the doors and me and my bro Danny were successful after even breaking the actuator arm,however with some brains we managed to complete the task.Thanks to DIY post.We will keep you all updated coz we got 2 more doors to get to.
