Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
#211
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I have the 98 lexus gs 400 my drive side door only does not lock & unlock on remote. I suspect is the actuator. do you know how much this cost to replace it. or where did you get your parts.
#212
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Hi guys, I've managed to get the coupling off the old motor (after a midnight run to Lowe's to buy a vise) but I really had to manhandle it with a torch and channel-locks to get it off.
Will the brass coupling off the new motor come off any easier with heat and pulling? Or do I even need to take it off at all? The new coupling might have enough drive shaft left over to still go on.
Speaking of getting it on, how did you guys get the old coupling on to the new motor shaft? Here's what I've got...
Will the brass coupling off the new motor come off any easier with heat and pulling? Or do I even need to take it off at all? The new coupling might have enough drive shaft left over to still go on.
Speaking of getting it on, how did you guys get the old coupling on to the new motor shaft? Here's what I've got...
#213
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Thread Starter
Hi guys, I've managed to get the coupling off the old motor (after a midnight run to Lowe's to buy a vise) but I really had to manhandle it with a torch and channel-locks to get it off.
Will the brass coupling off the new motor come off any easier with heat and pulling? Or do I even need to take it off at all? The new coupling might have enough drive shaft left over to still go on.
Speaking of getting it on, how did you guys get the old coupling on to the new motor shaft? Here's what I've got...
Will the brass coupling off the new motor come off any easier with heat and pulling? Or do I even need to take it off at all? The new coupling might have enough drive shaft left over to still go on.
Speaking of getting it on, how did you guys get the old coupling on to the new motor shaft? Here's what I've got...
BP
#214
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Yeah, i've read all 15 pages 3 times before trying this... but it doesn't always go as planned That old coupling refused to come off, broke 2 drill bits trying. I'll get some loctite and try the above method with the new one.
Thanks for taking the time also to do the write-up. Definitely couldn't have made it this far without your pioneering.
-Jib
Thanks for taking the time also to do the write-up. Definitely couldn't have made it this far without your pioneering.
-Jib
#215
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I'd like to extend a big THANK YOU as well. I followed this thread almost to the "T" while swapping out my driver and back passenger side doors. It was too easy. I tried using a gear puller, but it just bent. So I used an old precision screwdriver and hammered away until I got the couplings to come off. It's so new to me that I still catch myself locking the driver's door manually before I exit the car and downing the windows before I get to the car so that I can slide the lock open thru the window...
#216
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TRD, you rock my socks off man. I got the couplings off by locking the coupling in the vice upside down, and then tapping the back of the motor where the shaft sticks out a 1-2mm and it slid right off. A few taps to get it on the new motor and we were in business! I reassembled everything today, said a quick prayer and hit the button on my FOB... click click
#218
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#219
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I jsut got done with my ebay motor replacement and it works perfectly, thanks to all those who were willing to pioneer this option for us. I did however leave a tiny piece out when i reassembled the door actuator assembly and that was the gold "lock pin" in the white arm linckage for the door lock assembly......I did not realize this until I was cleaning up my area and the door still works perfectly should I be worried?
Thanks again,
Dustin
Thanks again,
Dustin
#220
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Thread Starter
I jsut got done with my ebay motor replacement and it works perfectly, thanks to all those who were willing to pioneer this option for us. I did however leave a tiny piece out when i reassembled the door actuator assembly and that was the gold "lock pin" in the white arm linckage for the door lock assembly......I did not realize this until I was cleaning up my area and the door still works perfectly should I be worried?
Thanks again,
Dustin
Thanks again,
Dustin
I looked for my old ones but it is 100 degrees in my garage and it is on the top shelf so I am to lazy to get it out and take pics of it. How about help me and show me what the pin looks like.
I do not think you had to remove it anyway to get to the motor right?
BP
#221
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how do you go about diagnoising that the acuator doesnt work? my passenger door look on my LS doesnt work with the remote or the door switch...what do you guys think it might be?
#222
Thanks for the write up TRD911. Your the *****! I did my passenger door and it took me 3.5 hrs. But most of it was due to lack of tools, light and trying to take off that coupler.
But overall its easy to do. Great write up
But overall its easy to do. Great write up
#223
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replaced the motor in my drivers side rear door today. thanks for this diy trd, helped tremendously. as others have experienced that coupler was the most annoying part... someone posted a link for a gear remover or some such earlier in this thread? i almost wish i had ordered that set.
#225
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Thank you so much for the DIY. I wouldn't have tried doing it myself without it, and without a link to the correct motor auction. I was able to do it without removing the window or speaker though.
I broke the coupler thing on the old motor when trying to hammer an Allen wrench through it. I just put epoxy on the new motor's couper thing and put it in the actuator. If it breaks again I'll just replace the entire actuator, since I don't have the coupler.
I broke the coupler thing on the old motor when trying to hammer an Allen wrench through it. I just put epoxy on the new motor's couper thing and put it in the actuator. If it breaks again I'll just replace the entire actuator, since I don't have the coupler.