TRD911

And here is the other side of the ring gear..

BP

tnbigdawg

iTrader: (3)

I had the same problem with the coupling. Super glue didn't work as long and the coupling broke loose after a week.

What I did was use glue from a hot glue gun. Melt some inside the coupling while it is on the shaft. Then heat up the assembly with torch to let the glue flow into the nook and crannies. When it cools down, the glue will become rock solid. It's been holding for a month now.

TRD911

bigdawg,

How did you get your coupling off?
How did you put the coupling back on? I had to tap it on with a hammer.
When you super-glued it did you scuff up the shaft? I sanded mine a little bit then cleaned with rubbing alcohol. We will see if the cyanoacrylate upholds the test of time...

I used this method (see pic) before I knew the coupling was hollow.. Then I used the drill bit method...

I am thinking that the coupling here in the pic got messed up when I heated it up. I did not reuse this coupling. I had another that I drove off with a drill bit.

BP

tnbigdawg

iTrader: (3)

I tapped it off with an allen wrench, and I tapped it on the new motor. It felt solid, but when I installed it in the car it just spun.

I took it off again, tried to heat the coupling and rapidly cool it several times, in an attempt to shrink it. That didn't work.

I removed it and glued it with super glue gel. I scuffed the shaft a little, but the super glue was too brittle I guess. Less than a week later, the super glue broke loose.

Took it off again, and melted glue from a hot glue gun into the coupling and shaft. Heated up the whole thing with a torch to let the glue flow inside. It's been more than a month now and it's holding up pretty well. What happens is the glue cools down faster than the metal and becomes rock solid. Then the metal cools down and shrinks a little, locking the whole thing in place.

TRD911

Well a quick update. My super glue is still holding. Doing fine. I did my other side rear door lock, this was the other one that was not turning on the dome lights. Here is a pic of how I cut the side of the latch assembly and glued another switch in place.

I will post a pic later but, I used yellow loctite on this one.

I had a thought about how to get the switch to work without taking anything apart. I am not sure if it would work but it is worth a try. I am going to try and put 1K volts on the switch to "clean" the contacts. I will do this with very low current. The TSB states that they had a manufacturing defect in the switches where they got dirty maybe the high voltage will clean it. I bought two rear door lock actuators from Blacklex, they both checked out well with the fluke but the left would not work so, I cut mine and put the switch in like the pic below...

BP

slickgt1

iTrader: (1)

wow, why are you guys going through all that for that coupling. It is so much easier to take it off by tapping it out. You need to picture this in your mind to understan. Take pliers, like the ones that have that little cutoff part. You grab the shaft with that cutoff part, as if you are about to cut off the shaft, between the coupler and the motor body. Then you put your plier contraption on a pair of bricks or something, basically to make sure that the motor is not touching the floor. Take a little allen wrench or drill bit, and hammer the rod out. The coupler is coned, and when you put it back on, it should tighten up witn no problem. Once you heat it though, the cone are gets messed up. Trust me it takes a whole minute to take one off.

TRD911

I picture is worth a thousand words ..

Here is what your talking about.
This is getting the new coupling off of the new motors but,,,, same idea as with the gray coupling.

When i heated it the first time I did not realize it was hollow....

BP

cenwesi

does anyone know where i can buy the motor for ls430. I just need one. Every where i look it seems they want me to buy more than 10.

TRD911

http://cgi.ebay.com/5-NEW-Mabuchi-Mi...QQcmdZViewItem

I think he will take 3 for them. Good luck. Let us know if the motor in the LS is the same as the motor in the GS...?????????

BP

txcoupe

When I took my car into dealer about 1 month ago, they offered to replace door lock actuator and charge me labor only. Seemed fishy why they would offer that. Something must be up ? (but I was glad I didn't have to shell out an extra $200-300 for the part itself)

kuWuPt

iTrader: (13)

They sell a motor gear pulle.. just found out when I was looking at changing my motor out

http://www.raidentech.com/mogepu1mshby.html

hope it helps, figured it is easier and less of a headache. Under $18 dollars to fix the actuator

Lexizm

iTrader: (2)

Cool I needed this, thanks a million.

98GSOwner

I just did my front pass side actuator on my GS4 today. It works perfectly with the new Ebay motor! Thanks to all of you who did the hard work on this thread - awesome information!!! No more embarrassment reaching over to manually unlock the door.....

One small thing I would add is that I put the old coupling on my new motor using a vise. I put the coupler on by hand first and was careful to make sure it was straight. Then I put the motor in my vise and very carefully tightened the vise until the coupling slid on to where I wanted it.

kuWuPt

iTrader: (13)

Changed my motor out this morning. A big thanks to all you guys who had the ***** to pull the actuator apart and find everything that is needed to fix this. It took about an hour to do everything and well well worth it. I got the gear puller I had posted earlier and this helped out a lot. I had ordered 5 motors from ebay and I tried pulling one off by tapping it etc but wasnt comfortable with it. With the gear puller took a min to take the gears off and everything was a breeze. I didnt take the window out, didnt see the need to. Thanks for the ellaborate write up it made the job a lot less daunting. Anyone in the area who needs help with this PM me. I think I could do it faster the second time around now that I know what I'm doing.

MichaelMSM

Thanks for all the detail. Unfortunately, my door's shut and locked! I have not read all the posts, so there may be an alternative listed, but if not... what options do I have? I'm tired of climbing oveer the seat or thru the window! Actually, my 1990 400 is just basic transportation, so I don't even care if the door locks... I just need to be able to get & keep the door unlocked. Any help! thanks.