slickgt1

iTrader: (1)

I am thinking it could be something along those lines. Maybe the contacts inside the module are not touching, maybe the arms are not connected to their respective places on big part of the unit. Maybe the arms are slippping on that rod, and staying in place all the time. These are the things I would check first. This system is super simple, and it not turning on your lights is weird.

TRD911

Well I finally got the time today to inspect my rear locks.. This was very frustrating. There are two separate connectors on all the actuators. There is one for the motor mechanism that locks and unlocks the door. Then there is another that tells weather the door is open or closed. I will show how to remove the door panel in the next several pics. I thought that the contacts that are shown on the pic below where for the lights / door ajar as well but, no. It is to tell the controller that the motor have locked or unlocked the door and to stop the motor.... for you electricians.. and industrial folk we call that a seal in.

The contacts here that where thought to send signal back to turn on the interior lights is not right.
BP

TRD911

I cannot understand how the door open signal is sent to the controller in the door. I am thinking that I will install a seperate switch to the door to make the lights and tell the alarm system that the door is open. Right now if someone were to open my rear door the alarm would not know.

Here is the start of how to remove the door panel. There is a tricky screw that you must get to get the panel off...


BP

TRD911

There are several screws at the bottom that you need to get off. I think they are 8mm size or just a phillips head screw. See pic...

TRD911

Once you get all the screws out you need to pull up on and remove the ash tray and window switch bezel there is a screw down in there that is the tricky one that I talked about.

TRD911

And another.. Can you tell I like pics ?

BP

TRD911

And another...

TRD911

Another

Just like the front door there is a screw behind this cover...

TRD911

Another.. This is with the door panel removed. This is where the fun begins..

I had a really hard time getting this out OMG. what a wench bag.. I am of the philosophy that you should not have to force things.. They should come out easy. I played.. would rather use another word but it would be censored. for about an hour. I wound up taking the door handle off which you do NOT HAVE TO... Just wiggle it like crazy and it will come out. Be-careful of the child lock lever.

TRD911

I did get the light issue resolved. I have to say it is not a pretty repair.. nor is it straight forward. I had to use a dremel and epoxy to get it all repaired. This is not as straight forward as the motor replacement. I will show you down to the epoxy that I used as well as the cherry switch. This is right after the dremel..

A special thanks to Dave for helping me when I was having a mental lapse.

I was really freaking out about this. I got a little crazy with the dremel and probably took too much off.. then forgot about the camera as I was focused on trying to get this fixed while I had my door panel off.

It took me a while to figure a few things out. There are two lock positions. Do you know how when you just barely shut your door and it latches but does not close then you can push a little harder and it closes... That little tidbit cost me an hour while I was worried I messed up my locking mechanism with all the dremel and all.. I will show the three positions later.


The black retangle is the switch that is responsible for telling the door CPU that the door is open. It is closed(made, conducting) when the door is open and open (not conducting) when the door is closed.
BP

TRD911

The following several pics are of the switch and its replacement. This is the factory SEALED switch that should work longer then the hinges on the door. I think the door should fall off due to worn hinges before this switch stops conducting. IMO this is a defect that Toyota should have to take the hit for.

This is the factory switch. I broke the two pins that you can see the circles for in this pic.

TRD911

This is a sealed switch. I soaked it in contact cleaner and it never changed its resistance. It had about 70K ohms of resistance closed...... NOT good.

This is a pic of the old switch and the new cherry switch side by side.

In the process I ruined the gasket like material that was on the actuator that met with the inner door. I used some weather stripping from Lowe's that I had for another project and it worked perfectly. If you want a pic of the bag let me know I will get it for you. It was about 1/4 inch foam.

BP

TRD911

Here are some close-ups of the cherry E61 switch that I used.

TRD911

Here is one of the three postions that the door latch can be in.

THIS IS OPEN. THE SWITCH SHOULD BE MADE OR CONDUCTING. 0 OHMS

TRD911

This is the intermediate stage or when you go to close your door but it does not close but does latch. You can use your finger to make the latch get this far. I do not have enough finger strength to make it latch as if the door where closed.

This is the almost shut. Depending on where you set your switch you can make this turn on the light or door ajar or not. I chose to make this turn the light off.. You will see what I am talking about in the next two posts.

BP