GSteg

iTrader: (15)

The radio is not OEM. I put an aftermarket radio in my car because I didn't like the OEM cd changer

The steering rack bushings are $40.

Knowing your skills, the steering rack bushings should be a piece of cake!

Check the suspension forum. I made a DIY thread for the steering rack bushings.

lex4

Hi GSteg!

What exactly does one notice with the new bushings? More control or sensitivity?
My CD changer is the glove box and holds 6 CD's
Thanks

Alex

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

You'll notice more precision in the steering. Plus there will be less slop in the steering!

lex4

HI GSteg!

Looks like there are issues in regards to getting the parts. Reading the posts gives the impression that a lot of the people have been waiting for months. I guess that is what you get when you are the only kid in town.

Alex

lex4

Hi Anybody!

I'm interested in getting the steering rack bushings, but if there is a problem with supply, then I'll wait before ordering.
Has anybody gone through this problem and how long did you have to wait before getting them?
Thanks

Alex

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

supposedly sewell lexus started to ship them out recently. Call them and ask for a status update.

lex4

Hi!

I don't these people send anything to Toronto.

Alex

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

They probably can. If they dont, contact TM engineering.

JohnNoble

Hi all

Thank you for all of the great info that is shared here. I have learned lots about possible diagnoses and just switched off the "Check VSC" lights with the paper clip. How easy!

I have a coolant leak which is visible in the REAR WATER BYPASS JOINT assembly. The part is not much ($123) but it looks like the manifold has to be removed to replace this joint. I was wondering if anyone might know that answer?

Thank you very much!

joebor1776

I am halfway through this job, have all the connections off and ready to lift out the manifold, but I cannot get the fuel line disconnected. I am using 14mm and 19mm flare nut wrenches--put a lot of torque on it by connecting two wrenches, and got it broken free, but now the bolt/nut turns for a couple turns (letting some gas out of the tube) but then tightens up again, in either direction.
What is the trick to getting this fuel line disconnected? Thanks for the help! I'm guessing I must have stripped the threads.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

dunno if this will help you but here is a NICE DIY WITH the parts/part #'s to rebuild the starter

394613-1999-lexus-gs-400-starting-problems.html

joebor1776

Thanks, I appreciate it. I did check that thread out. Anyways, I ended up just turning the intake and then putting a piece of cardboard under it to protect plastic connectors, etc. and just left it in the engine bay while I removed the starter. Actually worked out OK. I just finished rebuilding the starter with a Victory Lap starter kit from Amazon. I think I'm going to take it to Autozone or something to test it before I put it back in. Man what a backbreaker this job is, leaning over the engine bay for hours.

daddyduke

I just did this two weeks ago and my car wont idle past 2000 I replaced everything from the starter to the the lower intake manifold gaskets and a new maf sensor.
At first I thought It was my fuel injector o ring because they started leaking so I changed the whole driver side injector o rings.Then I ordered a new pcv hose
And a intake breather hose and a new battery and still not right.
So that leaves me to think It might be a clogged catalytic because I did spill coolant from the back pipes where the starter Is.The crazy part is im not getting any check lights.The car will start and when i step on the gas pedal It sound like its choking and bogging and my rpm drop or tge car just flat out stalls on me.This is frustrating because this my only car.I appreciate any help.I also sprayed break cleaner with the engine running and my rpms are the same.Im getting a throttle body gasket via rock auto.

joebor1776

Can anyone direct me to which fuse disables the fuel pump? I have my starter back in (after replacing copper contacts and plunger, and having it bench tested), but I want to test the gear engagement before putting the manifold back in. I thought about just taking the electronic module out of the key and using that dummy key to crank it, but I'm not sure if the fuel pump will be engaged. So to be safe, I think I should remove whatever fuse that controls the fuel pump. The fuse reference in the manual isn't clear, and I haven't been successful searching for this (probably a dumb question, that's why!).

Thanks in advance

joebor1776

Nevermind, ended up using the dummy key and that worked for testing it. Finished the job and the car runs again :-).