GS400 Starter
#76
Rookie
iTrader: (15)
The radio is not OEM. I put an aftermarket radio in my car because I didn't like the OEM cd changer
The steering rack bushings are $40.
Knowing your skills, the steering rack bushings should be a piece of cake!
Check the suspension forum. I made a DIY thread for the steering rack bushings.
The steering rack bushings are $40.
Knowing your skills, the steering rack bushings should be a piece of cake!
Check the suspension forum. I made a DIY thread for the steering rack bushings.
#77
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: ON
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi GSteg!
What exactly does one notice with the new bushings? More control or sensitivity?
My CD changer is the glove box and holds 6 CD's
Thanks
Alex
What exactly does one notice with the new bushings? More control or sensitivity?
My CD changer is the glove box and holds 6 CD's
Thanks
Alex
Last edited by lex4; 07-22-07 at 04:22 PM.
#79
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: ON
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HI GSteg!
Looks like there are issues in regards to getting the parts. Reading the posts gives the impression that a lot of the people have been waiting for months. I guess that is what you get when you are the only kid in town.
Alex
Looks like there are issues in regards to getting the parts. Reading the posts gives the impression that a lot of the people have been waiting for months. I guess that is what you get when you are the only kid in town.
Alex
#80
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: ON
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Anybody!
I'm interested in getting the steering rack bushings, but if there is a problem with supply, then I'll wait before ordering.
Has anybody gone through this problem and how long did you have to wait before getting them?
Thanks
Alex
I'm interested in getting the steering rack bushings, but if there is a problem with supply, then I'll wait before ordering.
Has anybody gone through this problem and how long did you have to wait before getting them?
Thanks
Alex
#84
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
REAR WATER BYPASS JOINT replacement
Hi all
Thank you for all of the great info that is shared here. I have learned lots about possible diagnoses and just switched off the "Check VSC" lights with the paper clip. How easy!
I have a coolant leak which is visible in the REAR WATER BYPASS JOINT assembly. The part is not much ($123) but it looks like the manifold has to be removed to replace this joint. I was wondering if anyone might know that answer?
Thank you very much!
Thank you for all of the great info that is shared here. I have learned lots about possible diagnoses and just switched off the "Check VSC" lights with the paper clip. How easy!
I have a coolant leak which is visible in the REAR WATER BYPASS JOINT assembly. The part is not much ($123) but it looks like the manifold has to be removed to replace this joint. I was wondering if anyone might know that answer?
Thank you very much!
#85
I am halfway through this job, have all the connections off and ready to lift out the manifold, but I cannot get the fuel line disconnected. I am using 14mm and 19mm flare nut wrenches--put a lot of torque on it by connecting two wrenches, and got it broken free, but now the bolt/nut turns for a couple turns (letting some gas out of the tube) but then tightens up again, in either direction.
What is the trick to getting this fuel line disconnected? Thanks for the help! I'm guessing I must have stripped the threads.
What is the trick to getting this fuel line disconnected? Thanks for the help! I'm guessing I must have stripped the threads.
Last edited by joebor1776; 04-26-16 at 10:45 AM. Reason: added text
#86
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (182)
I am halfway through this job, have all the connections off and ready to lift out the manifold, but I cannot get the fuel line disconnected. I am using 14mm and 19mm flare nut wrenches--put a lot of torque on it by connecting two wrenches, and got it broken free, but now the bolt/nut turns for a couple turns (letting some gas out of the tube) but then tightens up again, in either direction.
What is the trick to getting this fuel line disconnected? Thanks for the help! I'm guessing I must have stripped the threads.
What is the trick to getting this fuel line disconnected? Thanks for the help! I'm guessing I must have stripped the threads.
394613-1999-lexus-gs-400-starting-problems.html
#87
dunno if this will help you but here is a NICE DIY WITH the parts/part #'s to rebuild the starter
Attachment 385044
Attachment 385044
#88
Thanks, I appreciate it. I did check that thread out. Anyways, I ended up just turning the intake and then putting a piece of cardboard under it to protect plastic connectors, etc. and just left it in the engine bay while I removed the starter. Actually worked out OK. I just finished rebuilding the starter with a Victory Lap starter kit from Amazon. I think I'm going to take it to Autozone or something to test it before I put it back in. Man what a backbreaker this job is, leaning over the engine bay for hours.
At first I thought It was my fuel injector o ring because they started leaking so I changed the whole driver side injector o rings.Then I ordered a new pcv hose
And a intake breather hose and a new battery and still not right.
So that leaves me to think It might be a clogged catalytic because I did spill coolant from the back pipes where the starter Is.The crazy part is im not getting any check lights.The car will start and when i step on the gas pedal It sound like its choking and bogging and my rpm drop or tge car just flat out stalls on me.This is frustrating because this my only car.I appreciate any help.I also sprayed break cleaner with the engine running and my rpms are the same.Im getting a throttle body gasket via rock auto.
Last edited by daddyduke; 04-26-16 at 08:48 PM.
#89
Can anyone direct me to which fuse disables the fuel pump? I have my starter back in (after replacing copper contacts and plunger, and having it bench tested), but I want to test the gear engagement before putting the manifold back in. I thought about just taking the electronic module out of the key and using that dummy key to crank it, but I'm not sure if the fuel pump will be engaged. So to be safe, I think I should remove whatever fuse that controls the fuel pump. The fuse reference in the manual isn't clear, and I haven't been successful searching for this (probably a dumb question, that's why!).
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
#90
Can anyone direct me to which fuse disables the fuel pump? I have my starter back in (after replacing copper contacts and plunger, and having it bench tested), but I want to test the gear engagement before putting the manifold back in. I thought about just taking the electronic module out of the key and using that dummy key to crank it, but I'm not sure if the fuel pump will be engaged. So to be safe, I think I should remove whatever fuse that controls the fuel pump. The fuse reference in the manual isn't clear, and I haven't been successful searching for this (probably a dumb question, that's why!).
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance