I give up (on trying to use a hydraulic jack) -- WITH PIX
12-01-06, 06:10 PM
#32
Pole Position
Thread Starter
In case you didn't read the original post, I've tried jacking the car up with the hydraulic jack in 2 locations -- the stock jack location and the location that Lexus specifically told me to use, neither of which have worked out too well for me, which is why I'm here asking the experts for advice. So, you can either (a) offer some constructive advice, (b) sit back and listen, or (c) take it somewhere else.
12-01-06, 07:43 PM
#33
It's funny you should mention it because when I first got the car, I tried jacking it up from the rear bumper, and when that fell off, I figured the next best place to try was the side view mirrors. I even put a rubber pad on the jack so as not to scratch the mirrors. They fell off too, but at least they're not all scratched up.
12-02-06, 07:42 AM
#35
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Nah, that wasn't the pinch weld that was bent up. That was a metal rail that is set in about 8 inches from the side of the car just in front of the rear wheel.
12-02-06, 04:25 PM
#36
Hi e, don't get anywhere near under the car with the stock scizzors jack. Those things have a tendency to tip over if ANYTHING is not done perfectly, or if the car is bumped into while working. Hydraulic floor jack or two much preferred.
I've screwed up the pinch joint too, and squeezed the L-Tuned sides too much with floor jack too, breaking clips. Don't worry, you can get a new bag of Lexus clips for maybe a couple hundred bucks.
My problem with ramps is that the ramp hits the bottom of lowered front bumper before the wheels roll onto it. ANybody have a way around this?
Also, what about cutting slots in a hockey puck to resemble that yellow thingy?
How is the yellow thingy held to the jack so it doesn't slip off?
I've screwed up the pinch joint too, and squeezed the L-Tuned sides too much with floor jack too, breaking clips. Don't worry, you can get a new bag of Lexus clips for maybe a couple hundred bucks.
My problem with ramps is that the ramp hits the bottom of lowered front bumper before the wheels roll onto it. ANybody have a way around this?
Also, what about cutting slots in a hockey puck to resemble that yellow thingy?
How is the yellow thingy held to the jack so it doesn't slip off?
12-02-06, 04:32 PM
#37
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I think we need to have a sticky on the proper way to use a hydraulic jack and jack stands on the GS.
12-02-06, 07:32 PM
#38
Another option for getting the entire rear end up is to place the jack under the pumpkin. It is very safe, no chance of breaking the pumpkin and I have seen a few Lexus dealers use this method when their lifts are full. I think I came across that in the Lexus repair manual as well. I have done it for years and it makes jacking up the car very easy. SC430 owners with Blitz exhaust will need a very low profile jack to clear the exhaust cross members.
Lee
Lee
12-03-06, 07:26 PM
#39
Hey Jerry. The point of the piece of wood with the slot in it was to accommodate the pinch weld, but I guess it put too much pressure on the side skirt and the clips popped off. I think the same thing would happen with that yellow thingy. There is only about an inch on either side of the pinch weld, so anything wider than 2-3 inches could be a problem. That's why I don't understand how jack stands work. The platform at the top of the jack stand is like 3-4 inches wide, and I can't see how you can position a jack stand across the pinch weld without damaging something.
I think we need to have a sticky on the proper way to use a hydraulic jack and jack stands on the GS.
I think we need to have a sticky on the proper way to use a hydraulic jack and jack stands on the GS.
12-03-06, 07:27 PM
#40
Another option for getting the entire rear end up is to place the jack under the pumpkin. It is very safe, no chance of breaking the pumpkin and I have seen a few Lexus dealers use this method when their lifts are full. I think I came across that in the Lexus repair manual as well. I have done it for years and it makes jacking up the car very easy. SC430 owners with Blitz exhaust will need a very low profile jack to clear the exhaust cross members.
Lee
Lee
12-03-06, 08:26 PM
#41
lifting the rear up by putting the jack under the pumpkin works perfectly. Infact, it's even in the lexus tech manual!
As for lifting up the front, U use the two rails near the exhaust pipe. I'm able to lift up the car higher before my jack gets maxed out. Then I just slide the jackstand in and do the same on the other side. I know it's not the safest thing to do (one side then the other), but it works for me and i try to be very cautious about it.
Sometimes I wish toyoa would design in such a way that the subframe would be located further up the chassis. I remember on Honda/Acuras that I use to work on, the subframe was close to the front of the car that even conventional hydraulic floor jacks had no problem fitting under (even when the car is lowered).
As for lifting up the front, U use the two rails near the exhaust pipe. I'm able to lift up the car higher before my jack gets maxed out. Then I just slide the jackstand in and do the same on the other side. I know it's not the safest thing to do (one side then the other), but it works for me and i try to be very cautious about it.
Sometimes I wish toyoa would design in such a way that the subframe would be located further up the chassis. I remember on Honda/Acuras that I use to work on, the subframe was close to the front of the car that even conventional hydraulic floor jacks had no problem fitting under (even when the car is lowered).
12-03-06, 08:34 PM
#42
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Hey GSteg. Next time you're under the car, snap some pictures for us. The problem is that I don't know the meaning of the terms "sub-frame," "cross-member," etc. As for jacking up the car on the rear pumpkin, what if you don't get it perfectly centered? Isn't there a chance it could tip one way or the other?
We really need a sticky on the proper procedure or procedures.
We really need a sticky on the proper procedure or procedures.
12-04-06, 03:01 AM
#43
Although this is a pic of an SC, the GS positions are similar.
You see the front crossmember and rear differential locations. I've used both and they work great.
Ed's suggestion of the custom wood ramp is also a great one. These won't be as "tall" as the ones you purchase and should not hit the bumper.
You see the front crossmember and rear differential locations. I've used both and they work great.
Ed's suggestion of the custom wood ramp is also a great one. These won't be as "tall" as the ones you purchase and should not hit the bumper.
12-04-06, 05:36 AM
#44
I have a picture. Give me your email addy and I will teash you. The place to jack up the rear is right behind the side-skirt, and right to the front of the rear wheel. It is a metal trapezoid type thing with a hole in it. That is how your car gets lifter when you go on a lift. That is where I jack it up from the rear. I am not sure if your jack-stands are like mine, but the ones I have, they have a flat top, with notches sticking up, this straddles that frame rail nicely and doesn't bend anything. I don't know how you bent yours.
12-04-06, 02:01 PM
#45
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Although this is a pic of an SC, the GS positions are similar.
You see the front crossmember and rear differential locations. I've used both and they work great.
Ed's suggestion of the custom wood ramp is also a great one. These won't be as "tall" as the ones you purchase and should not hit the bumper.
You see the front crossmember and rear differential locations. I've used both and they work great.
Ed's suggestion of the custom wood ramp is also a great one. These won't be as "tall" as the ones you purchase and should not hit the bumper.
