GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

Steering pre-tensioner—how do you do it? (I searched)

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Old 10-21-06, 02:58 PM
  #31  
David1969
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Originally Posted by sparky3
I had the local NTB tire place adjust mine yesterday. I watched him do it; he had a socket big enough to fit the large "nut" that the screwdriver above is touching, and my car had notches for every 1/8 inch or so. Also, the adjustment to tighten was COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, not clockwise. Nothing else needs to be removed or taken apart, just that big nut needs to be turned. It wasn't 1/8 or 1/4 either - it was slightly more than that.
So there is NO need to adjust the outer ring then correct? All that needs to be done is just put a big-*** hex wrench on the bolt and adjust it COUNTER-CLOCKWISE until it's set to the right spot, right?
Old 10-21-06, 03:19 PM
  #32  
rominl
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Originally Posted by corkycal
it's the same for a gs3/4/4.3. some early year GS like 1998 don't have this adjustment. I'm not sure about 1999 but my 2000 has it.

I think Rominl said his 1988 didn't have it but he later added this on when he changed his steering rack.

Hmmmm, I always thought turning it CLOCKWISE to tighten, outer nut turning counter clockwise to loosen then turning larger inside bolt CLOCKWISE to firm things up.
correct, all early yr 98 didn't have them, in 2nd half of 98 they changed to this one which was smoother on steering. i changed my whole steering rack to the new type and adjusted it.

congrats on fixing the problem!
Old 10-21-06, 03:21 PM
  #33  
sparky3
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Originally Posted by corkycal
it's the same for a gs3/4/4.3. some early year GS like 1998 don't have this adjustment. I'm not sure about 1999 but my 2000 has it.

I think Rominl said his 1988 didn't have it but he later added this on when he changed his steering rack.

Hmmmm, I always thought turning it CLOCKWISE to tighten, outer nut turning counter clockwise to loosen then turning larger inside bolt CLOCKWISE to firm things up.
Nope; he simply put the huge socket on the inner nut and turned it counter clockwise to tighten the steering. In fact, there were two other mechanics watching as well and I said the same thing - I joked with them and said "I thought it was lefty-loosey, tighty-rightie" and they said "Not here apparently".

I'm just telling you my experience from yesterday with my 98 GS 300. I have no idea about early model 98's (I think mine was made later in 98) or anything past that.
Old 10-21-06, 03:42 PM
  #34  
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i turned it clockwise on my car

Now I gotta change it back.
Old 10-21-06, 04:05 PM
  #35  
sparky3
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Originally Posted by GSteg
i turned it clockwise on my car

Now I gotta change it back.
Did the steering get tighter when you turned it clockwise? You'll know right away if it's getting tighter as the wheel will tighten up. If you over tighten you'll know right away too.
Old 10-21-06, 10:56 PM
  #36  
owali
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Man I am confused. I read old posts about people turning it clockwise and the steering getting tighter. Whch one is it?
Old 10-22-06, 02:35 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by owali
Man I am confused. I read old posts about people turning it clockwise and the steering getting tighter. Whch one is it?
Maybe different for different years? Just try whatever will make it tighter for you. I'm going to be performing this adjustment on my car tomorrow and I'll let you guys know how it is for a 05' GS300
Old 10-22-06, 02:52 AM
  #38  
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HMM,
I've had 2 1999 GS400 with 16 inch wheels and tires, and I've never had this shake in the steering wheel at speed. I used Yokohama tires on the first GS, and I have Michelin Pilots on the GS I have now. No problems so far with 127,000 miles on the odometer. If I develop trouble, I'll look into this.

I've found that wheels 17 inches and larger are more likely to have this problem, but I'm sure some cars with 16 inch rims also vibrate. I drove a few cars with the 17 inch option and felt the shake every time, so I tried the 16's and liked it. Not everyone likes the small rims like me. The GS looks better with larger rims and tires for sure.

Last edited by gserep1; 10-22-06 at 02:59 AM.
Old 10-22-06, 08:07 AM
  #39  
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NICE WORK I'm glad I don't have this problem
Old 10-23-06, 06:50 PM
  #40  
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So I am guessing that since my car was manufactured 9/97 I won't have it? I have been trying to fix this problem for the longest time and am getting pretty annoyed, like you must have been, with this problem.
Old 10-23-06, 07:16 PM
  #41  
nhanphat
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Where it is located?
Old 10-23-06, 07:27 PM
  #42  
David1969
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Originally Posted by nhanphat
Where it is located?

If you crouch down by the drivers door and look toward the center of the car, you will see the part pictured at the beginning of the thread. Real easy to locate.
Old 10-23-06, 07:37 PM
  #43  
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Nice to see you finally resolved the issue I had this problem with my 99 and I simply replaced the bushings and front control arms. Shaking never came back Feels awesome to drive w/o that shaking crap!
Old 10-23-06, 09:22 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by David1969
If you crouch down by the drivers door and look toward the center of the car, you will see the part pictured at the beginning of the thread. Real easy to locate.
Do you have to remove the engine under cover tray?
Old 10-23-06, 09:45 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by sparky3
There's a link about adjusting the pre-tensioner, which I had never done. Actually there's a few links on here, the one I'm referring to has some mis-information compared to what I've found out. Anyway, the thread refers to this picture:



I've read those that said "You have to loosen up the nut first and then tighten the big hex head in the center." and "it tightens by turning it clockwise" and "You need a to mark the nut first and a chisel to tighten the nut"

I had the local NTB tire place adjust mine yesterday. I watched him do it; he had a socket big enough to fit the large "nut" that the screwdriver above is touching, and my car had notches for every 1/8 inch or so. Also, the adjustment to tighten was COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, not clockwise. Nothing else needs to be removed or taken apart, just that big nut needs to be turned. It wasn't 1/8 or 1/4 either - it was slightly more than that.
Also, we adjusted it many times! Probably about 12 times. At first I'd drive my car back into the bay and we'd lift it up and he'd walk under and tighten it slightly, lower the lift, and then I'd test drive it on the highway.
After a few times doing this, he was pretty sure he could get to it without even jacking the car up or putting it on a lift, and he was right.

Shawn
I am going to do this this week and need some clarification. If the thing the screwdriver is touching is the nut, and the thing inside it (with the hex shaped void) is the bolt, would you please confirm that what he adjusted was the nut. The edges appear to be rounded so I'm wondering how a socket could grab those if that is what he was doing. Also, is what was on your car different than that shown in the picture? The threads appear to tighten with a clockwise rotation. That is not to say that what fixed yor car was not a counter clockwise twist, but if that is the case, then what curd your shimmy is "loosening of that "nut"". I don't suppose there was any way to tell if the "bolt" was rotating with his adjustments, was there?
Forgive explicit detail, but I need to know exactly what to get to do this myself.

I was contemplating using a pipe wrench to loosen the "nut" and use engin-ear's bolt sizing from a previous post to tighten the bolt.

Thanks for the confirmation and congrats on the improved ride. This has become the only achilles heel of my car, and has me looking for a replacement if it can't be remedied.

Also, if it's not too much trouble, could you call and get the size of the socket he used. Seems like a friendly enough person to take the time with you. Hopefully he can save me some time too.

Last edited by STONER; 10-24-06 at 06:38 AM.


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