Reset ECU (pulled fuse) -- observations
03-12-06, 06:26 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Reset ECU (pulled fuse) -- observations
Hey guys. I was doing some searching on CL this afternoon (the funny thing is that I can't even remember what the heck I was searching for), and came across a number of threads about resetting the ECU. Anywyay, it sounded interesting, so I figured I'd give it a shot.
It was very easy. The fuse box is located under the hood directly in front of the battery. Just press in a tab located on the left side of the cover and the cover comes right off. There is a map to all the fuses on the underside of the cover. You want to pull the fuse that is in the slot "ECU-B." It is a 20 amp fuse. There has been some discussion as to whether you should pull that fuse or the one in the slot "EFI," but I believe if all you want to do is reset the ECU, then you should pull the ECU-B fuse. I didn't have a special tool to pull fuses, so I just used a bottle-nosed pliers and very carefull pulled it out (you don't need to apply much pressure at all, but be careful not to crush the fuse).
I left the fuse out for about an hour. When I went to replace it (but before I actually did), I noticed a distinct clicking sound coming from inside the car. It was the CD changer recycling itself over and over again. I don't know if this is normal or not, and I don't know if I could have prevented this from happening by pulling the CD cartridge out of the changer before pulling the fuse. Anyway, so the CD changer was recycling itself for about an hour. No big deal.
Once I replaced the fuse, I started up the car, and noticed (as I expected) that the radio presets and memory seat settings had been cleared (the seat didn't move from the position I left it in, but the steering wheel didn't come down like it normally does). No big deal. I lowered the steering wheel and set #1 (10 seconds). Resetting the radio presets took all of 2 minutes.
Now,on to the million dollar question, did it make a difference? Absolutely 100% no doubt about it. The best way to describe the difference is that the car felt peppier, and this was mainly attributable to 2 things: (1) off the line, the car felt much more responsive and willing to hold its current gear higher into the rev band; and (2) when rolling, the downshifts were much quicker (in other words, when I pushed on the pedal, the car didn't stay in its current gear as it normally does waiting to see whether I was going to push the pedal harder before downshifting -- it immediately sensed I wanted to go faster and it quickly downshifted to allow me to do so).
If you have an hour or so, and don't mind resetting your radio presets and resaving your memory seats, I highly recommend this to anyone. I have a feeling that my ECU has never been reset in the 7 year life of the car, so at least for me, it appears to have made a very noticeable difference.
e
It was very easy. The fuse box is located under the hood directly in front of the battery. Just press in a tab located on the left side of the cover and the cover comes right off. There is a map to all the fuses on the underside of the cover. You want to pull the fuse that is in the slot "ECU-B." It is a 20 amp fuse. There has been some discussion as to whether you should pull that fuse or the one in the slot "EFI," but I believe if all you want to do is reset the ECU, then you should pull the ECU-B fuse. I didn't have a special tool to pull fuses, so I just used a bottle-nosed pliers and very carefull pulled it out (you don't need to apply much pressure at all, but be careful not to crush the fuse).
I left the fuse out for about an hour. When I went to replace it (but before I actually did), I noticed a distinct clicking sound coming from inside the car. It was the CD changer recycling itself over and over again. I don't know if this is normal or not, and I don't know if I could have prevented this from happening by pulling the CD cartridge out of the changer before pulling the fuse. Anyway, so the CD changer was recycling itself for about an hour. No big deal.
Once I replaced the fuse, I started up the car, and noticed (as I expected) that the radio presets and memory seat settings had been cleared (the seat didn't move from the position I left it in, but the steering wheel didn't come down like it normally does). No big deal. I lowered the steering wheel and set #1 (10 seconds). Resetting the radio presets took all of 2 minutes.
Now,on to the million dollar question, did it make a difference? Absolutely 100% no doubt about it. The best way to describe the difference is that the car felt peppier, and this was mainly attributable to 2 things: (1) off the line, the car felt much more responsive and willing to hold its current gear higher into the rev band; and (2) when rolling, the downshifts were much quicker (in other words, when I pushed on the pedal, the car didn't stay in its current gear as it normally does waiting to see whether I was going to push the pedal harder before downshifting -- it immediately sensed I wanted to go faster and it quickly downshifted to allow me to do so).
If you have an hour or so, and don't mind resetting your radio presets and resaving your memory seats, I highly recommend this to anyone. I have a feeling that my ECU has never been reset in the 7 year life of the car, so at least for me, it appears to have made a very noticeable difference.
e
so it's time to race your friend's a4 again? 
03-12-06, 06:49 PM
#3
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Thanks for this post bro. I am new here at CL and have been jumping around looking for things to learn about my new car that I don't even have yet. It is on a truck now from AZ. This is one the first things that I will do when I get it, along with a full inspection from head to toe and some TLC. Fortunatley for me the prior owners were car nuts. So they only used premium fuel and likely didn't baby it, because I don't baby me car when I drive either. This should be especially useful for me since like you said most cars never see a ECU reset.
03-12-06, 07:15 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by oki_boy
What do you have done to the car?
Last edited by e-man; 03-12-06 at 07:31 PM.
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03-13-06, 01:31 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by oki_boy
What do you have done to the car?
03-13-06, 01:37 PM
#11
Super Moderator
By pulling the EFI fuse, it only resets the ECU, but the pulling of the negative battery terminal resets everything. It is also an easy way by pulling the EFI to reset a CEL. I regularly pull the negative terminal out for about 30 minutes to reset the daily commute settings of my RX before it goes to the track and there is much more punch.
03-13-06, 01:45 PM
#12
Forum Administrator
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by e-man
I didn't have a special tool to pull fuses, so I just used a bottle-nosed pliers and very carefull pulled it out (you don't need to apply much pressure at all, but be careful not to crush the fuse).
e
e
03-13-06, 01:48 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by DaveGS4
e, in my GS right there in the fusebox is a little plastic plier-type device for pulling the fuse out. It's been a while since I did it and can't remember if its black or yellow, but it works nicely w/ less risk of crushing than metal pliers
03-13-06, 02:00 PM
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I might try this, but seeing my SRT intake should be here tomorrow or Wen I'll just do it then when installing it. (Ordered my TEIN CS coilovers too!, still have not made mind up on which exhuast to get >.> )
I used to reset my ECU on my Evo and Eclipse after every Mod I installed, so it could Re learn with my new mods.
I used to reset my ECU on my Evo and Eclipse after every Mod I installed, so it could Re learn with my new mods.
03-13-06, 02:02 PM
#15
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Originally Posted by e-man
Great tip, Dave. I didn't even see it. Where is it secured?