93 gs300, its beat up, slowly fixing it
02-17-12, 12:58 AM
#61
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Damn bro I guess i'm gonna have to take a road trip to TN so you can show me how my car works haha, the metal nipple where the egr valve connects to is clogged with some black moist dirt, tried to unscrew it but almost stripped the screw, ****'s hard on there, also I reconnected that one hose that goes from the middle of the y pipe to a nipple that's a little to the right from it (took me legit like 30 mins) reconnected some hoses that cross each other by the firewall, and still whistling; also I have a big big question, would my timing being a little off cause the car to backfire at times and feel ridiculously underpowered? I took my distributor off a couple weeks ago and messed up my timing (first time doing it) I cranked it over to get the marks to match up and I got pretty close (like 1 or 2 teeth behind the line) it's been like that since
02-22-12, 05:06 PM
#63
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Well I went over to where I originally bought my steelies and I saw a set of wheels that made me fall in love, msr's 045, they're 18x8 I got a good deal, I'm just not too sure with the tire size I should get, little help guys?
02-22-12, 07:25 PM
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02-22-12, 08:26 PM
#66
If you want VIP or stretched look go 215/30. My fronts are 18x9.5 and I have 225/40. They stretched good but the side wall I a little thick. For a 8" I would start with 215/30. If you find a decent shop they will usually let you decide if you like the look before doing them all
02-23-12, 05:00 AM
#68
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I personally don't really like the whole cambered out ISH, i'm going for something sporty, but I don't want to rice it out either, I want the rear tires to be meaty, I would have loved for that set to have 18x10 in the rear, but I guess in time i'll get it.
02-23-12, 05:05 AM
#69
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No updates of the bodykit yet, all the pieces are resting peacefully in my basement, i'm waiting on my bumper brackets to come in (thanks to 93socal2jz) since my front ones are **it at the moment, I was actually gonma wait to do all the sanding and bondo-ing to test fit the body kit so I can get it all painted in one shot, I paid $200 for the full kit
02-23-12, 05:07 AM
#70
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If you want VIP or stretched look go 215/30. My fronts are 18x9.5 and I have 225/40. They stretched good but the side wall I a little thick. For a 8" I would start with 215/30. If you find a decent shop they will usually let you decide if you like the look before doing them all
02-23-12, 09:00 AM
#71
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If you guys were close to me, I would fix it for yall 
As for the bottom end of the GE, there is a reason to just build the GE. If my car had a GE in it I probably would have built that in all honesty. Its much easier to find a machine shop that will disassemble and reassemble the bottom end with some TT pistons and freshen up everything. The cost I couldn't imagine being more than $400. Then a head gasket and ARP studs for another $300 and you have a good stong engine that can hold in upwards of 500whp. A good GTE without a hook up or a friend cutting you a good deal, is $2,000 shipped (what I paid for mine) and I got LUCKY. I had to replace a few seals (about $100 more in seals) and I had to do some normal maintainence (thermostat and gasket, radiator hoses, plugs, valve cover gaskets, PCV valve, ect.) which was about another 100-150. So I had about 2,200 in my engine and it wasnt in the car. Fortunatly I have the ability to extend the wiring harness myself so I bought a lot of wire, solder, and heat shrink and that was another 50. So for 2250 + fluids I had a good running engine. The GE would have 700 in it and be NA, but with 1,500 you can have a nice turbo kit, and have essentially a stonger engine with more power (because remember your GTE is still on stock twins). Its really up to the builder. I chose a GTE because my car didn't have an engine, and it was easier for me to just throw a GTE in it.
I am more than willing to help you with any questions you need OP. I enjoy this forum, and am obviously particular to the 1GS section. If you need anything PM me or post up and I will do my best to help!
As for the bottom end of the GE, there is a reason to just build the GE. If my car had a GE in it I probably would have built that in all honesty. Its much easier to find a machine shop that will disassemble and reassemble the bottom end with some TT pistons and freshen up everything. The cost I couldn't imagine being more than $400. Then a head gasket and ARP studs for another $300 and you have a good stong engine that can hold in upwards of 500whp. A good GTE without a hook up or a friend cutting you a good deal, is $2,000 shipped (what I paid for mine) and I got LUCKY. I had to replace a few seals (about $100 more in seals) and I had to do some normal maintainence (thermostat and gasket, radiator hoses, plugs, valve cover gaskets, PCV valve, ect.) which was about another 100-150. So I had about 2,200 in my engine and it wasnt in the car. Fortunatly I have the ability to extend the wiring harness myself so I bought a lot of wire, solder, and heat shrink and that was another 50. So for 2250 + fluids I had a good running engine. The GE would have 700 in it and be NA, but with 1,500 you can have a nice turbo kit, and have essentially a stonger engine with more power (because remember your GTE is still on stock twins). Its really up to the builder. I chose a GTE because my car didn't have an engine, and it was easier for me to just throw a GTE in it.
I am more than willing to help you with any questions you need OP. I enjoy this forum, and am obviously particular to the 1GS section. If you need anything PM me or post up and I will do my best to help!
Throw a cometic hg and some arp head studs on a stock ge motor and head with a big enough turbo and supporting fuel and tuning mods you will be able to make well over 800 whp reliably. Prove me wrong myself and many others have done it
02-23-12, 10:05 AM
#72
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Dude you clearly have no clue what your talking about.
Throw a cometic hg and some arp head studs on a stock ge motor and head with a big enough turbo and supporting fuel and tuning mods you will be able to make well over 800 whp reliably. Prove me wrong myself and many others have done it
Throw a cometic hg and some arp head studs on a stock ge motor and head with a big enough turbo and supporting fuel and tuning mods you will be able to make well over 800 whp reliably. Prove me wrong myself and many others have done it
02-23-12, 01:49 PM
#75
I am with you on this one, maybe it will hold the HP for a period of time but with that kind of compression on stock internals and heads it will blow after a period of time. I am still new to this modifying engines, but after reading around on club na-t im learning a bit..