vipman806

Damn bro, I thought my car had problems haha

m1k3yg

Well today I took the journey of changing the lower balljoints, long story short, I got the right side out (after about an hour of muscle business) and put the new one in, so nothing crazy there, but when I get to the other side, I decide well it's already taken apart, I have all the tools so might as well change the control arm too... Well the control arm decided not to come out, so now I have to wait for a clear day to get down there and yank that sucker out of there, might even buy a new spindle if I get lazy enough, but after this hopefully I can get my mounts and seals done

m1k3yg

Well all the major ones are taken care of now lol, the rest is the easy stuff, pull the old one out put the new one in

m1k3yg

Everytime this happens I cant help but laugh
http://youtu.be/oF_yVw5v668

Plans so far have changed, I got the cyber kit, and now im debating between royal blue or metallic black paintjob, the inside will be black, and performance wise, well im gonna do the 2jz gte swap thanks to blklegend for filling me in on the subject, big brake kit, still doin manual swap, its been a long month and the weather hasnt helped either but it will all come along soon!

vipman806

I was thinking of boosting my GE with the kit from Boost Logic and doing either a W58 or V161 tranny swap. Not too sure on that yet though, if I don't work on my S13 soon enough then I'm getting the manual swap on mine.

m1k3yg

Well ladies and gentlemen, after a long winter of not being on here I finally got some updates, I bought a set of aristo tail lights, got the cyber body kit (i think thats the right name), and tie rods and sway bar links I still havent put on due to the weather, I still have the idling issues and i'm dripping oil from the distributor, yesterday I decided to give the car a thorough clean, and here's some pics...




Found a retarded amount of popcorn under my backseat that i'm still wondering where it came from..



The area where my left foot should rest is outlined with some type of caulk, turns out that whole rectangle is ready to give out



Pulled the carpet out and found out all the foam spots are soaked in water (nasty) and even found a couple cigarette butts and bolts stuck under it too



Pulled all the stuff out of my trunk, also I pulled out a cheap sub that was in the original hole, now I get better sound



Gathered all the change I found, total: 6 bucks and some cents, which paid for all the vacuuming and such

m1k3yg

I changed my mind about the gte swap, I want to go na-t, i've seen a lot of people that end up just boosting the ge which I wouldn't mind, for the past month i've been looking for a ffim for a decent price but no luck, and to go na-t honestly I don't know where to start and i'd appreciate if someone sent me a line on the topic, got a better paying job and i'm waiting on some money so things will definetely be getting done, i'm buying an used w58 (i was told it's good for starters, and I highly doubt i'll be making more than 600hp anytime soon) and rebuilding, should I keep ge head or get a gte head? Are most gte performance parts compatible with ge? Thanks in advance, the time has come "dun dun dun DUNNNNN"

chek128

If you need any small interior parts, lmk, im parting out a 95, really wanting to just help out fellow CL members so parts are priced damn near free plus shipping.

m1k3yg

Sent you a pm sir

Carfreak70

iTrader: (16)

This is what I would do if I was in your shoes. NA-t is a really good choice. The way to do it right is as follows for decently cheap.
Set of TT pistons and rods. Availible on Supraforms for $100-$150. These pistons are low compression pistons.
Stock TT or upgraded head gasket
ARP head studs
FFIM is not completely nessesary unless you really want one
Some type of EMS. You cannot make power unless you go standalone (this is your big $ dropper) A simple SAFC and tune will not allow you to control bigger injectors, which you will need if you want more than ~350whp.
Get the head decked and hot tanked. Replace the valve seals while youre there (cheap) and if you want to, get someone to do a port and polish (still decently cheap).

The GTE head requires a lot more than you think. It requires using the GTE harness and ECU. The head really isn't that much better anyways.

Good luck with your build. Let me know of any questions you have!

m1k3yg

Thanks for the info man , i've been looking at your thread with the dirty gs you got from that farm, hopefully mine will be running better soon, the ffim i want for 2 reasons, because it looks cool (don't laugh) and because i really don't want to be having to take apart my throttle body and manifold everytime i want to change sparkplugs or anything like that, i think it would give me easier access; my list of things to buy were: (and please correct me if there's anything i wouldn't necessarily need right away)
bc cams i think stage 2
28" FMIC
Turbo ported manifold
tt injectors

there isn't any racing chips for our cars right? no possible way to disengage the governor?

Carfreak70

iTrader: (16)

Its been a long freaking road man, but one I would go right back down again!

I understand that FFIM's look cool (I think so too), its nice to have a big chrome polished tank on the side of your engine. The only thing about a FFIM is you're going to need a Q45 throttle body, a different throttle cable, just a few other misc things. The reason why I said they weren't needed is because I have seen them for $1000 and thats pretty cheap. That 1K could be your ems, because like you asked, there are 0 chips for our car. You pretty much have to go standalone, unless you do some type of piggy back ECU which don't generally yeild great results. As for ease of access with the FFIM, once you do the plugs twice, I promise you can have that intake manifold off in 5 minutes or less. I wish I had timed myself, I bet I could have it all off in 3 minutes. I already still know I need a deep 10mm, 12mm and 14mm. Its pretty easy man.
As for the stuff you don't really need, the BC cams are not nessesary unless you plan to make ~500whp. I thought I wanted cams too, but I found out they don't really do much for lower HP cars.

I guess what it comes down to is are you going to take the head and get it decked and cleaned and put a new headgasket on and use TT pistons? If you don't, you will regret doing anything. It will blow up. Quickly.

m1k3yg

Oh yeah, mark my words i will be getting those, i tried taking off the intake manifold and then put it back together now i have a vacuum leak and i swear as of today there are more lines where they're supposed to be than before i tried taking it apart, makes no sense to me.

Stolen

Join the vacuum leak club, as soon as you take apart the intake for the first time you will notice there are a million vacuum lines. I did mine about a year ago, and had crazy vacuum leaks, and the #6 spark plug was arching. OMG and on top of that I flooded the spark plug valley w coolant because I started the car w/ forgetting to tighten the coolant line that bypasses thru the throttle body. My car ran like crap for a while till I figured it all out. I still have a leak and a check engine light that won't go off. I know what it is though, under the intake manifold there is a plastic take near impossible to get to something pertaining to the egr system. It has to also plastic nipples which hose hook up to. I knocked one of the plastic no repairable nipples off when installing the starter. SMH hense the last vacuum leak and check engine light. So I'm done pretty much w this motor, I'm doing the GTE swap. #1 reason my engine has about 178000 on the clock, #2 If have to change internals you mite as well swap the engine, unless you have the time and are hell bent on keeping it. #3 I fortunate to have a good job in the bad times were in and I can afford it. But, hey hey you do what you think is right for you and your budget. None of us on here will be driving your car unless you ask us to lol. So listen to what you thank and go w/ you heart. Good Luck man

Carfreak70

iTrader: (16)

If you guys were close to me, I would fix it for yall

As for the bottom end of the GE, there is a reason to just build the GE. If my car had a GE in it I probably would have built that in all honesty. Its much easier to find a machine shop that will disassemble and reassemble the bottom end with some TT pistons and freshen up everything. The cost I couldn't imagine being more than $400. Then a head gasket and ARP studs for another $300 and you have a good stong engine that can hold in upwards of 500whp. A good GTE without a hook up or a friend cutting you a good deal, is $2,000 shipped (what I paid for mine) and I got LUCKY. I had to replace a few seals (about $100 more in seals) and I had to do some normal maintainence (thermostat and gasket, radiator hoses, plugs, valve cover gaskets, PCV valve, ect.) which was about another 100-150. So I had about 2,200 in my engine and it wasnt in the car. Fortunatly I have the ability to extend the wiring harness myself so I bought a lot of wire, solder, and heat shrink and that was another 50. So for 2250 + fluids I had a good running engine. The GE would have 700 in it and be NA, but with 1,500 you can have a nice turbo kit, and have essentially a stonger engine with more power (because remember your GTE is still on stock twins). Its really up to the builder. I chose a GTE because my car didn't have an engine, and it was easier for me to just throw a GTE in it.

I am more than willing to help you with any questions you need OP. I enjoy this forum, and am obviously particular to the 1GS section. If you need anything PM me or post up and I will do my best to help!