mistyfied

Hi everyone I'm new to this forum so lets post a problem I have a 1995 Lexus GS 300. I have a voltage draw, when removing the positive cable from the battery and attache a test light between the cable and the battery, the light comes on, meaning somewhere there is a draw of power. I can also see this when I turn on my turn signal and headlights, all the lights on my instruments dimming, and they flash with my turn signal on. When I rev up the engine, all the lights flair up and the blower blows more air. Any suggestion on how to trouble shoot this. I already took all the fuses out one by one with no result.

Thanks

Will.

Kaiser

iTrader: (1)

Will - the gs only has an 80 amp alternator. At idle you are lucky to get over 40 amps. It takes 35 amps to run the car. If you have original grounds and cables you can imagine you will have resistance in the lines. I had such bad power it was faulting out my AC. I had to replace the main ground, shave the paint off under the other chassis grounds, upgrade the alternator to a higher amp and had a one step smaller pulley put on to charge at a lower rpm. I installed an optima yellow top deep cycle battery and upped the idle by cracking the throttle blade to 1000rpms. After all that I had good power.

boxcarfan

to check for a battery draw. anything over .06amps means you have too much of a draw with the car off and the key out of the ign. a fluke meter is the best to test this, just set it to amps DC and remove the neg batt. cable, and make sure you put the pos lead coming out of the meter on the 10A spot. and just take the leads and put one on the batt post and with the cable off and not touching the batt. post put the other lead on the neg. cable and read your amps, it can take up to 10 mins to get a good reading, as systems are still shutting down and whatnot. but if you do have a draw just remove fuses until the draw goes away, then you are on your own from there to find what what exactly is drawing power...

Kaiser

iTrader: (1)

The draw is usually the dome light left on door. Turn it to off. Supra guys faced that issue a lot.

mistyfied

Well thank you all for replying. I had the alternator rebuild and upgraded to 130 amp so that is sufficient enough to run the car with no problems. I did remove all the fuses one by one, but the test light remained on so that did not help either. It is however a considerable draw, in the morning I noticed that when I start the car, it cranks considerable slower then when I drive the car shut it down and crank it again with a noticeable faster crank. I disconnected my high powered stereo system with no result either. One thing I do know, it never did this before so it is something what happened recently. i will take the advice to disconnect my grounds, and clean them up, I also considering to put in a voltage regulator with additional grounds to the chassis and engine and see if that will do it. I also have to take in consideration that the car is old, and like me, I don't work as well either anymore then when I was young

mistyfied

I did remove all the fuses one by one but the test light remains on. The more I think about it, the more I'm getting the idea that it is a ground issue.