Lexinton

iTrader: (1)

Hello All,

I've looked all around the forum, but can't seem to find anywhere that gives a DIY oil change instructions for our vehcile. I suppose that '93-'97 are the same so I know that it's easy enough, and that's why I want to do it, but honestly would rather follow some instructions rather then just wing it myself.

Regardless, I have a question regarding the engine oil resevoir. When I bought my vehcile it didn't come with the owner's manual so would anyone be able to tell me how many litres of oil is reccommended to fill?

As well, what type of oil filters/motor oil are people using? I plan on using a Fram oil filter with a 5w20 Mobil 1 Synthetic or Quaker State Synthetic. Anyone use the K&N filters? They perform any better or they just pricey due to the name?

Jmai22

#1. I personally would not use Fram. I would go with a Toyota Filter. Just go to the toyota or lexus dealer and ask for a filter for our car. It should be between 6 and 12 dollars.

#2. Use Mobile 1. I think the weight is 5w30.

#3. I use about 5.5 Quarts every time because I change my filter everytime. Throw the .5 quart in your trunk and check your oil every 2 weeks and just refill it if need be. I can usually go 5,000 miles with only needing to add an additional .5 quart.

#4. Its very straight forward. Crawl under the car use a 12mm socket and remove bolt. drain, remove oil filter, put in new filter, replace plug with new washer and 12mm socket(make sure you ask for a new washer when you buy your oil filter from the dealer). Pour in oil and done. If your good it should take no longer than 15 minutes from start to finish. But it for sure should take no longer than 1 hour. Good luck.

Jmai22

1 important step. Make sure you put some oil around the brim of your new oil filter and fill up the oil filter with fresh oil before you put it on the car. this will prevent leaks and from starving the engine from any oil.

Kaiser

iTrader: (1)

Fram is made by Honeywell. I used to think less of them till I knew that. Toyota filters are manufacturer recommended and run about the same cost.

At the age of your motor think about sticking with regular oil as opposed to synthetic. Synthetic is a bit more....viscus I believe is the word...and can seep through your seals that aren't leaking now. Can't go wrong with Valvoline 10w-30. Save your money. The conversion from quarts to liters is .94. Put in 5 liters and you will be just fine.

Last time I checked you want to take a 14mm under the car with you.

Jmai22

I think you are right about the 14mm. Its been a while.

A.R.

I always warm up the car just a bit before I go to change the oil. It helps it to run out better as it expands, and will carry out more metal shavings, particles, junk.

Jewel707

iTrader: (1)

^ from what i hear yes. but never tried it.

LexFather

Thats what the 430 uses

blklegend

iTrader: (1)

I have close to 190k miles, I use 0W30, but thats because I have a lifter tick when I start the car cold and the heavier weight gets rid of it.

sonyman

Use a 30 weight oil (0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30) unless your engine has damage that necessitates a thicker weight. I still wouldn't go any thicker than a 40 weight. Just because an engine isn't brand new anymore does not mean that it needs a thicker oil. A thinner oil, such as the recommended 30 weight, will flow better and provide the proper lubrication needed.

Don't use a Fram and don't use a 20 weight oil. "Friends don't let friends use Fram." Fram filters are some of the worst out there. There are plenty of good ones, such as K&N, OEM, Denso aftermarket, Purolator Pure One, Wix, Napa Gold, Donaldson, Amsoil, Mobil 1, and more. I personally recommend using a genuine OEM Toyota filter but anything I listed above should work fine and perform well.

As far as oil is concerned, Mobil 1 recently reformulated their oils which contain at least some group III oil now. If you are keen on using a synthetic, try Amsoil ASL 5W-30 or Amsoil XLF 5W-30 if you want to save a buck.

As mentioned above, put a small amount of oil around the gasket of the new filter before installing, and also drain the oil when the engine is hot so any contaminants are suspended in the old oil. Good luck!

sonyman

What you just said makes no sense. A 0W-30 is going to be every so slightly thinner than a 5W-30 when cold, not thicker. Also, when warmed up, it should have approximately the same viscosity as a 5W-30 when at operating temperature, which should be similar to that of any 30 weight for that matter.

dario

Ok I have a 1993 Lexus GS300 with 220K. What would be the best oil and what weight should I use (non synthetic)????? I will use OEM oil filter but what brand and what weight of oil is best to use on this typical mileage (non-synthetic oil)????

sonyman

There are many, many good non-synthetic (dino or conventional) oils out there. A lot comes down to personal preference. Use 5W-30. Valvoline and Havoline are good choices, but as far conventional oils go, they all are pretty much equal. Now, seeing how you have 220k miles, my personal preference for a conventional oil would be of the high-mileage variety. Valvoline MaxLife is very well received on BITOG (Bob Is The Oil Guy forums) and has even been recommended for low-mileage vehicles.

dario

5 quarts is enough for one oil change????

sonyman

I have no idea on that once since I have never changed the oil of a 2JZ.