ChanceL

Hello, first post, but long time reader. I have already found so many solutions from previous posts using the search button. Thanks to all of you here.

I am trying to identify the part number for the gearbox that the power seat slide motor drives to turn the worm screw on the opposite side of the seat.

I have found previous posts about this gearbox going bad and have identified mine as being bad due to being stipped out. However two delearships so far do not know what I am trying to replace. It looks like I need part 15 in this diagram from http://www.trademotion.com



But part 15 is identified as a "Housing" and it doesn't look like the gearbox as pictured. However it is in the right place and is pricing in the $70 range.

I was faxed a simmilar diagram from a dealership and it has it marked as 72206 for the RH and 72206C for the LH.

Is this it?

Thank you,

Chance

ChanceL

The thought just occured to me to do some searching on some Toyota related sites and sure enoguh, I found mention of the same part at

http://forum.ih8mud.com/archive/index.php/t-100954.html

So it looks like the complete part number is 72006-30040.

If anyone can still confirm, I would appreciate. But I will try to buy today and post my results.

johnee78

iTrader: (4)

You are correct, it is part 15.Its always the inner gears that go bad on our seats..Keep us posted on the progress of your seats..

ChanceL

Will do. Last night I took apart everything and got the gearbox out so I would have it on hand to compare with.

The seat is actually functional without the inner worm drive. However during medium to heavy braking, there is a little play in the seat. Also I am sure it could affect the safety if you are in a crash. But I would say if you are in a pinch and don't have access to a replacement gearbox and you need to get the seat moving take it out. The inner side is still on a track and the motor driving just the outter side seems to work fine.

My seat was in the all the way back position. I wasn't able to get to the bolts that secure the frame at the back. So what I did was remove the seat from the frame by removing the four bolts. I then went ahead and unplugged the wiring harnesses. Be sure not to forget the one the goes to the seat belt receptacle, I almost yanked that one out. With the seat out I then began to turn the inner worm drive with a socket wrench. Don't do this on a good gearbox, as it will strip it. Mine was already stripped. I would move it a little and then apply power to the slide motor to let it catch up. I repeated about 10 times and got it far enough up to remove the bolts in the back. Once I had the frame free, everything was pretty self explanatory to get the rest apart.

johnee78

iTrader: (4)

So taking apart the seat is fairly easy??

ChanceL

If you have access to the four bolts securing the frame to the floor, I would say you could have the seat out in 10 minutes. This is the case for a normally functioning seat that you can slide back and forth. For me that seem to take up the most of my time.

I spent about 2 and half hours start to finish to get that one part free and get the seat back in. I have never pulled seats out before or messed with any kind of power seats before. So I would imagine a more experienced person could do in half the time.

The actual work on the seat frame I would say was very easy once it was out. I am not a mechanical person, but it was easy to figure out what screws to remove. There were a few Philips screws holding the back of the worm drive screw. So that came apart easy. You must hold the worm drive screw still to get the bolt at the front off. I did that with a pair pliers on the big stop nut. A couple of hex head screws held the gearbox in, along with the worm screw going thru the middle of it. Once those were free the gearbox came right out. It is still a big hassle to get to such a small part, but I had fun doing it.


Once I get the replacement, I bet I can do it in an hour. Of course now I can move the seat forward to get to the rear bolts thus making it a whole lot easier.

GS300CMO

Be sure to post back when you get the replacement part. Cause I need to fix my drivers seat and I was looking for the part number.

ChanceL

For sure, on the driver's seat it is 72006-30040 which is described as a "sub-assmbly housing". I still need to fix the right front seat too, so I will post back when I know that part is the same too. The only thing I think that could be different is the mounting bolt locations. It did list it as 72006C on the diagram, but I can't imagine it being different and they didn't know about the "c" part.

Sewell Lexus had the part in stock (one left) at $107. I told the parts guy I could get it on the Internet for $76. He dropped the price for me to $90.

Replacing the gearbox on the driver's seat was a breeze. The biggest slow down is if you can't move the seat to get to the mounting bolts as I mentioned earlier.

I am going to better document this when I do the other seat, but here is what I remember.

With seat slid all the way back, remove plastic covers and remove the two bolts that secure the front of the seat track to the floor.

Move seat forward. Remove plastic covers and remove the two bolts in the back. One is vertical into the floor and the other is sideways into the center hump.

Move seat all the way back. Also make sure to raise the seat all the way up. (If you don't raise it up, the front bar will block your way later.)

Unplug the wiring harness at the front of the seat.

I went ahead and removed the seat from the car for easier working. I did this by taking the head support off and then lifting the seat out thru the back door. It probably fits out the drivers door, I just didn't try.

Find and remove the two hex head screws that secure the gearbox at the front side of the seat track.

Remove the brass color bolt the sits on the front end of the gearbox the secures the worm screw. You will need to use pliers to hold the worm screw still at the purplish stop nut behind the gear box.

Midway back there are two large bolts (14mm) that secure the screw drive anchor. Remove these.

At the back of the seat, remove the plastic cover the conceals the end of the worm screw. There is one screw holding it on.

Now you should see a bracket that holds the end of the worm screw. Remove the two small screws the secure the bracket to the frame. The worm screw should now pull free from the gearbox.

Now you should be able to free the gearbox. However, it is still attached to the drive shaft from the motor. Unscrew the shaft from the gearbox side, and you should be able to work it free.

Installation is basically reverse order.

If you moved the seat all the way back, the anchor on the worm drive screw should be up against the stop bolt. Otherwise you will want to make sure both sides are an equal distance from stop nut.

I did this in 45 minutes. Works like a charm now. Seat is solid, no play in the seat when comming to a stop or taking off.

Chance