Tech support post your queston here... - Page 8

One_jZ_SC3 · 10-13-09, 09:31 PM

How do I change my evaporator on my 92 SC??? I know its located under the passenger sude dash and its a B*tch to get to..thats about it

SHOLEXMAN · 10-14-09, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YeA 2jZ

damn so i would have to completly remove the entire center console like the whole entire thing ?

Yeah the center console has to go cause the glovebox gets stuck on that piece. Also I think there is a wingnut that you get by the cluster so the center console has to come out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by One_jZ_SC3

How do I change my evaporator on my 92 SC??? I know its located under the passenger sude dash and its a B*tch to get to..thats about it

The whole dash has to come off to get access to it. Center console has to come off too. You need to take the cluster out and also drop the steering wheel ,but not remove the wheel. Thats a 2 person job so you can get it done quicker and not damage the dashboard.

You need to disconnect the lines in the engine bay also. If you going to do this your going to need to replaced the receiver/dryer. Everytime you open the system up you let water in it and the deicant bags that hold the water in the system are bad. Along with that you might as well replace all the o rings so that you don't have a issue with them popping off when you re pressurize the a/c system. Its like 2 1/2 pounds of refridgerent to recharge it. BTW did you ever get that key lock clyinder taken car of?

98$c300 · 10-14-09, 08:36 AM

hey any of you guys know what has to be cut on a LS caliper to fit the SC?

SH_JZZ30 · 10-14-09, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98$c300

hey any of you guys know what has to be cut on a LS caliper to fit the SC?

The only thing that actually needs to be cut or removed should be the dust shield. And if you are reusing your caliper bracket bolts, you need to put washers on them or get the LS bolts.

98$c300 · 10-14-09, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SH_JZZ30

The only thing that actually needs to be cut or removed should be the dust shield. And if you are reusing your caliper bracket bolts, you need to put washers on them or get the LS bolts.

i had heard someone say.that you had to shave a little off the back of caliper.yeah i know about the bolts SC's are longer.

and has anybody tried puting in IS300 in the rear of a SC?

98$c300 · 10-14-09, 10:31 AM

John where did you get the Lexus stickers for your front calipers?

TeeLex · 10-14-09, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98$c300

i had heard someone say.that you had to shave a little off the back of caliper.yeah i know about the bolts SC's are longer.

and has anybody tried puting in IS300 in the rear of a SC?

Richard, you need to ask John ( Mr.//LRD ), since he has done this already.

One_jZ_SC3 · 10-14-09, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SHOLEXMAN

Yeah the center console has to go cause the glovebox gets stuck on that piece. Also I think there is a wingnut that you get by the cluster so the center console has to come out.

The whole dash has to come off to get access to it. Center console has to come off too. You need to take the cluster out and also drop the steering wheel ,but not remove the wheel. Thats a 2 person job so you can get it done quicker and not damage the dashboard.

You need to disconnect the lines in the engine bay also. If you going to do this your going to need to replaced the receiver/dryer. Everytime you open the system up you let water in it and the deicant bags that hold the water in the system are bad. Along with that you might as well replace all the o rings so that you don't have a issue with them popping off when you re pressurize the a/c system. Its like 2 1/2 pounds of refridgerent to recharge it. BTW did you ever get that key lock clyinder taken car of?

ok thanks alot!!

Yea i did, luckily it wasnt the lock cylinder itself...I guess there is a cylanoid/sensor right next to it when you take out the part..that is what the problem was

DINH300 · 10-14-09, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98$c300

i
and has anybody tried puting in IS300 in the rear of a SC?

It's not going to work unless you get the rear assembly.

Punky · 10-14-09, 08:02 PM

Ok I have another question!

I have some hard water stains on the lip of my wheels. Any suggestions on how to clean em?

98$c300 · 10-14-09, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Punky

Ok I have another question!

I have some hard water stains on the lip of my wheels. Any suggestions on how to clean em?

i tried CLR it comes in a gray little bottle.then polish with blue magic.

YeA 2jZ · 10-16-09, 05:01 PM

SO i am having some rear alignment issues so I wanted to know Does anyone have a service manual type of pic of where the asentric (i think that what they are called) bolts and mounts are for rear wheel alignment. I was told that my driver side rear area could have some issues in this area but i can imagine what it looks like even if i looked myself

SHOLEXMAN · 10-16-09, 07:08 PM

This is what they should look like. There are different types ,but one of those has to be for the car lol. There should be 4 total on the rear for the toe and camber. Are you going to buy the parts and have them install them or what? Your taking it to a shop to do the alignment right? lol

http://www.sonoransteel.com/ats_016.jpg

YeA 2jZ · 10-19-09, 09:54 AM

Thanks for the pics bro....

But i got a good one now... Whats the difference between the vvti head of a GE engine and non vvti head. I am talkin physicaly ? i seen a lot of guys over on SF that are NA-T and are going with COP (coil over plug spark) to get rid of the distributior. But i see that some of them use the coil packs and ignitors off the vvti head. Woud it be possible to run the vvti head but with non vvti internals basically making it a non vvti head but still using certin parts to retain the COP. Sounds kinda weird when i read it back to my self but i hope someone understands what i am trying to say

98$c300 · 10-19-09, 06:53 PM

i dont understand these instructions for the wiring.they are in english but look like chinese...all i get is where the Red wire goes and the Black wire.

Connecting the LC-1

3. LC-1 Cable connections:
3.1 Out of the LC-1 come 3 cables:
A. Interface and power cables with 6 stripped ends:
a. Red 12V supply
b. Blue Heater Ground
c. Metallic System Ground
d. Yellow Analog out 1
e. Brown Analog out 2
f. Black Calibration wire
B. Serial In connection, 2.5mm stereo (female) marked as IN
C. Serial Out connection, 2.5 mm stereo (female) marked as OUT.
4. Connect the 12V supply wire to a switched 12V source in your car. A switched 12V source
goes on as soon as the ignition on the car is on. Make sure the connection is fused with a
fuse of minimum 5A.
5. Connect the Heater Ground wire to a chassis ground. Make sure it has a good ground
connection.
6. Connect the System Ground to where you will use the analog out signals. If you use the
analog out signals as input for an ECU or datalogger, connect the system ground to the
ground of the ECU or datalogger.
7. Optionally connect the analog out signals to their intended devices.
8. Optionally connect a pushbutton switch between ground and the calibration wire.
9. Optionally connect a indication LED between the calibration wire and ground. The following
diagramm shows how to connect the pushbutton and indication LED.