How much did your water pump replacement cost?
05-25-15, 07:11 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
How much did your water pump replacement cost?
I just picked up an 07 es350 with about 80k miles. As I commute roughly 40k a year, eventually it's going to be time to replace it. I remember they used to call for engine removal to replace it but apparently the service manual has been changed to where the simply jack up or lift the engine. Has anyone had theirs replaced since the change?
05-27-15, 11:23 PM
#3
When mine went out on the 07 first dealer gave price of like 1400 dollars.
but then once they called the warranty company they only aproved like for 5 or 6 hours labor and the bump they paid all like 700 and i paid 100
it was crazy how the service contract company could get it done for around 800 at the same dealer that wanted me to pay them like 1400
but then once they called the warranty company they only aproved like for 5 or 6 hours labor and the bump they paid all like 700 and i paid 100
it was crazy how the service contract company could get it done for around 800 at the same dealer that wanted me to pay them like 1400
05-28-15, 08:08 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
I called my local toyota dealership and they said they could do it for about $600 (serpentine belt included) which was music to me ears. I'm glad to found an alternative route of replacing it without engine removal. With the amount of miles I drive it would have required saving a lot of money just for that service.
On another note, I do wish that the atf was easier to change!
On another note, I do wish that the atf was easier to change!
05-28-15, 10:35 AM
#5
I have no idea how to replace it without removing the engine, there's no place and I mean no place to work.
05-30-15, 04:38 PM
#7
How many inches?
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05-30-15, 10:38 PM
#9
Lexus Test Driver
Instructions I found regarding the swap on a Sienna(same 2GR-FE engine).
OK, got it done. Here's the instructions. (Some of the wrench sizes may be wrong, but most are 12 or 14mm, some 10mm)
1. Jack up vehicle support front end with jack stands, or lift
1b. Drain coolant from radiator via draincock at bottom of radiator.
2. Remove front passenger wheel
3. Remove plastic inner wheel cover (2 bolts -10mm, 1 plastic push grommet)
4. Remove upper engine mount (two pieces several bolts 14mm - note where you took them out)
4b. Remove water inlet housing (hose on top side can be removed and bottom left on and whole thing twisted out of the way)
5. Remove serp belt (14mm wrench turn counterclockwise on tensioner pulley)
6. Remove both idler pulleys (14mm)
7. Remove pulley off tensioner pulley (TURN CLOCKWISE!) You need to remove this to access the bolts around the waterpump.
8. Remove waterpump pulley bolts (4 X 14mm) but leave the pulley dangling there unless you want to mess with jacking up the engine. I didn't. You will need some sort of either spanner wrench or screwdriver to hold pulley in place while loosening up bolts - mine weren't that tight.
9. Remove waterpump bolts - there are 16 of them. You don't really have to note where they are (except 2) because they are different sizes (14mm and 12mm). There are two that need locktite on them when installing later on. See below these will need to be cleaned with a wire wheel or replaced. I cleaned them with a wire wheel, they worked just fine this way.
10. Remove waterpump and pulley through the top of the engine. Don't forget to remove the old gasket too.
11. I cleaned both surfaces with brake cleaner as well as sanded both surfaces of waterpump and engine so that they were flush and no gasket material was left.
Install back in the same order. Torque on bolts is as follows:
Pulleys: 32 ftlbs
Waterpump: 14mm bolts - 15ftlbs (make sure there is no oil on these threads when installing)
12 mm bolts - 81INlbs/6.75ftlbs
2 bolts need loctite are the third bolt from the left on the top and bottom as you look at the waterpump on the engine.
Engine Mount Brackets: 40 ftlbs (horizontal bolts)/28ftlbs (vertical bolts)
Water housing: 7ftlbs
Check pages 773-776 of the 2GR-FE repair manual found in another link.
Hope this helps. It was pretty easy. Took me longer than it should have because I was figuring things out. Not all that difficult to do.
OK, got it done. Here's the instructions. (Some of the wrench sizes may be wrong, but most are 12 or 14mm, some 10mm)
1. Jack up vehicle support front end with jack stands, or lift
1b. Drain coolant from radiator via draincock at bottom of radiator.
2. Remove front passenger wheel
3. Remove plastic inner wheel cover (2 bolts -10mm, 1 plastic push grommet)
4. Remove upper engine mount (two pieces several bolts 14mm - note where you took them out)
4b. Remove water inlet housing (hose on top side can be removed and bottom left on and whole thing twisted out of the way)
5. Remove serp belt (14mm wrench turn counterclockwise on tensioner pulley)
6. Remove both idler pulleys (14mm)
7. Remove pulley off tensioner pulley (TURN CLOCKWISE!) You need to remove this to access the bolts around the waterpump.
8. Remove waterpump pulley bolts (4 X 14mm) but leave the pulley dangling there unless you want to mess with jacking up the engine. I didn't. You will need some sort of either spanner wrench or screwdriver to hold pulley in place while loosening up bolts - mine weren't that tight.
9. Remove waterpump bolts - there are 16 of them. You don't really have to note where they are (except 2) because they are different sizes (14mm and 12mm). There are two that need locktite on them when installing later on. See below these will need to be cleaned with a wire wheel or replaced. I cleaned them with a wire wheel, they worked just fine this way.
10. Remove waterpump and pulley through the top of the engine. Don't forget to remove the old gasket too.
11. I cleaned both surfaces with brake cleaner as well as sanded both surfaces of waterpump and engine so that they were flush and no gasket material was left.
Install back in the same order. Torque on bolts is as follows:
Pulleys: 32 ftlbs
Waterpump: 14mm bolts - 15ftlbs (make sure there is no oil on these threads when installing)
12 mm bolts - 81INlbs/6.75ftlbs
2 bolts need loctite are the third bolt from the left on the top and bottom as you look at the waterpump on the engine.
Engine Mount Brackets: 40 ftlbs (horizontal bolts)/28ftlbs (vertical bolts)
Water housing: 7ftlbs
Check pages 773-776 of the 2GR-FE repair manual found in another link.
Hope this helps. It was pretty easy. Took me longer than it should have because I was figuring things out. Not all that difficult to do.
06-13-15, 07:35 PM
#12
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Water pump replacement in Victoria
Metro Lexus in Victoria B.C. replaced my 2007 ES350 water pump at 115,000 km in August 2014. Total was $951 CDN for the pump, belt, coolant and labour and tax. The labour was $533, 4.1 hours at $130 per. They did not take the engine out and they probably did the job in 2 hours!
08-24-15, 09:44 AM
#13
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2008 Lexus ES350
Instructions I found regarding the swap on a Sienna(same 2GR-FE engine).
OK, got it done. Here's the instructions. (Some of the wrench sizes may be wrong, but most are 12 or 14mm, some 10mm)
1. Jack up vehicle support front end with jack stands, or lift
1b. Drain coolant from radiator via draincock at bottom of radiator.
2. Remove front passenger wheel
3. Remove plastic inner wheel cover (2 bolts -10mm, 1 plastic push grommet)
4. Remove upper engine mount (two pieces several bolts 14mm - note where you took them out)
4b. Remove water inlet housing (hose on top side can be removed and bottom left on and whole thing twisted out of the way)
5. Remove serp belt (14mm wrench turn counterclockwise on tensioner pulley)
6. Remove both idler pulleys (14mm)
7. Remove pulley off tensioner pulley (TURN CLOCKWISE!) You need to remove this to access the bolts around the waterpump.
8. Remove waterpump pulley bolts (4 X 14mm) but leave the pulley dangling there unless you want to mess with jacking up the engine. I didn't. You will need some sort of either spanner wrench or screwdriver to hold pulley in place while loosening up bolts - mine weren't that tight.
9. Remove waterpump bolts - there are 16 of them. You don't really have to note where they are (except 2) because they are different sizes (14mm and 12mm). There are two that need locktite on them when installing later on. See below these will need to be cleaned with a wire wheel or replaced. I cleaned them with a wire wheel, they worked just fine this way.
10. Remove waterpump and pulley through the top of the engine. Don't forget to remove the old gasket too.
11. I cleaned both surfaces with brake cleaner as well as sanded both surfaces of waterpump and engine so that they were flush and no gasket material was left.
Install back in the same order. Torque on bolts is as follows:
Pulleys: 32 ftlbs
Waterpump: 14mm bolts - 15ftlbs (make sure there is no oil on these threads when installing)
12 mm bolts - 81INlbs/6.75ftlbs
2 bolts need loctite are the third bolt from the left on the top and bottom as you look at the waterpump on the engine.
Engine Mount Brackets: 40 ftlbs (horizontal bolts)/28ftlbs (vertical bolts)
Water housing: 7ftlbs
Check pages 773-776 of the 2GR-FE repair manual found in another link.
Hope this helps. It was pretty easy. Took me longer than it should have because I was figuring things out. Not all that difficult to do.
OK, got it done. Here's the instructions. (Some of the wrench sizes may be wrong, but most are 12 or 14mm, some 10mm)
1. Jack up vehicle support front end with jack stands, or lift
1b. Drain coolant from radiator via draincock at bottom of radiator.
2. Remove front passenger wheel
3. Remove plastic inner wheel cover (2 bolts -10mm, 1 plastic push grommet)
4. Remove upper engine mount (two pieces several bolts 14mm - note where you took them out)
4b. Remove water inlet housing (hose on top side can be removed and bottom left on and whole thing twisted out of the way)
5. Remove serp belt (14mm wrench turn counterclockwise on tensioner pulley)
6. Remove both idler pulleys (14mm)
7. Remove pulley off tensioner pulley (TURN CLOCKWISE!) You need to remove this to access the bolts around the waterpump.
8. Remove waterpump pulley bolts (4 X 14mm) but leave the pulley dangling there unless you want to mess with jacking up the engine. I didn't. You will need some sort of either spanner wrench or screwdriver to hold pulley in place while loosening up bolts - mine weren't that tight.
9. Remove waterpump bolts - there are 16 of them. You don't really have to note where they are (except 2) because they are different sizes (14mm and 12mm). There are two that need locktite on them when installing later on. See below these will need to be cleaned with a wire wheel or replaced. I cleaned them with a wire wheel, they worked just fine this way.
10. Remove waterpump and pulley through the top of the engine. Don't forget to remove the old gasket too.
11. I cleaned both surfaces with brake cleaner as well as sanded both surfaces of waterpump and engine so that they were flush and no gasket material was left.
Install back in the same order. Torque on bolts is as follows:
Pulleys: 32 ftlbs
Waterpump: 14mm bolts - 15ftlbs (make sure there is no oil on these threads when installing)
12 mm bolts - 81INlbs/6.75ftlbs
2 bolts need loctite are the third bolt from the left on the top and bottom as you look at the waterpump on the engine.
Engine Mount Brackets: 40 ftlbs (horizontal bolts)/28ftlbs (vertical bolts)
Water housing: 7ftlbs
Check pages 773-776 of the 2GR-FE repair manual found in another link.
Hope this helps. It was pretty easy. Took me longer than it should have because I was figuring things out. Not all that difficult to do.
Thanks
Last edited by selfserv; 08-24-15 at 01:33 PM.
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