Front and Rear doors disassembling instructions
01-30-15, 01:59 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Front and Rear doors disassembling instructions
I have enough good sound deadening materials to do doors. But I really do not want to damage anything while doing removing door panels. Can anyone point me out to instructions how to disassemble doors, where and how many screws out there.
Thank you!
By the way, I did sound insulation under rear seats and anywhere behind rear seats (doing right now trunk) and I can hear car become definitively less noisy. I actually quite surprised that ES 350 not as sound insulated as I initially thought. In fact, I was reading reviews that this car provides good insulation. While it is true that they did well, floor and firewall they seems to ignore rear side of car and doors seems to also not that insulated. I can't wait to open them and see what Lexus actually did to battle noise in doors.
Thank you!
By the way, I did sound insulation under rear seats and anywhere behind rear seats (doing right now trunk) and I can hear car become definitively less noisy. I actually quite surprised that ES 350 not as sound insulated as I initially thought. In fact, I was reading reviews that this car provides good insulation. While it is true that they did well, floor and firewall they seems to ignore rear side of car and doors seems to also not that insulated. I can't wait to open them and see what Lexus actually did to battle noise in doors.
01-31-15, 08:50 PM
#5
http://images.lowes.com/product/conv...85004803lg.jpg
The doors will be now be sound deadened with high density fiberglass and the ziplock bags prevent it from ever getting wet during rainstorms. And the aerosol foam is extremely sticky and stays flexible for life so you'll never have to worry about the ziplock bags coming loose from the doors. The fiberglass is also pretty lightweight so you won't be adding alot of weight to the doors like you would if you were using a product like Dynamat butyl rubber sheets.
05-01-15, 08:43 PM
#6
Lexus Test Driver
You'll not likely find any insulation inside the doors. Sound absorbing rather than sound barrier insulation is needed inside the doors to absorb traffic and tire noise. One way to do this on a budget is to buy a $30 bag of blown in type high density fiberglass at Home Depot http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...84ccef_400.jpg Then at the Dollar store buy plastic zip lock type bag and put 1 inch of fiberglass inside dozens of bags. Then glue the bags to the metal skin inside of the door panels using this odorless aerosol foam (Dow "Great Stuff"):
http://images.lowes.com/product/conv...85004803lg.jpg
The doors will be now be sound deadened with high density fiberglass and the ziplock bags prevent it from ever getting wet during rainstorms. And the aerosol foam is extremely sticky and stays flexible for life so you'll never have to worry about the ziplock bags coming loose from the doors. The fiberglass is also pretty lightweight so you won't be adding alot of weight to the doors like you would if you were using a product like Dynamat butyl rubber sheets.
http://images.lowes.com/product/conv...85004803lg.jpg
The doors will be now be sound deadened with high density fiberglass and the ziplock bags prevent it from ever getting wet during rainstorms. And the aerosol foam is extremely sticky and stays flexible for life so you'll never have to worry about the ziplock bags coming loose from the doors. The fiberglass is also pretty lightweight so you won't be adding alot of weight to the doors like you would if you were using a product like Dynamat butyl rubber sheets.
05-01-15, 10:14 PM
#7
Even though ES is quiet, i find it quieter when insulating as mention, i did the 4 doors with dynamat and added an extra pink insulated fiberglass, but i encase the fiberclass in glad garbage bags and stapple or tape them. I made large section of insulated fiberclass encased in bags sandwich between the chassis frame door and the door trim itself.
The doors are a bit heavier for the hinges and the closing sound is more firm, i found it keep the cabin temperature more consistant in winter and summer.
I did the same thing for the trunk lid, the adverse reaction is the lid slam heavier so before of fingers and head as i had it once fall down on me
The insulation does make a difference in feel as people told me, it feels like a tank.
The doors are a bit heavier for the hinges and the closing sound is more firm, i found it keep the cabin temperature more consistant in winter and summer.
I did the same thing for the trunk lid, the adverse reaction is the lid slam heavier so before of fingers and head as i had it once fall down on me
The insulation does make a difference in feel as people told me, it feels like a tank.
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05-02-15, 10:57 AM
#8
Lexus Test Driver
1. Dynamat is a vibration damper, therefore it only needs to be sparsely applied in order to stop the panel from vibrating. 25-50% coverage, when strategically placed, is more than enough to stop the vibrations. Covering the entire surface is adding pointless weight with no added benefits, because you're simply aiming to stop the panel from vibrating.
2. When you use fiberglass for sound absorbing, you want the following properties:
The sound absorbing core material must have the following characteristics:
*Dense fiberglass board insulation (not loose batt)
*Unfaced
*3lb to 8lb density
*2” thickness
Read:
http://www.acousticsbydesign.com/aco...king-sound.htm
2. When you use fiberglass for sound absorbing, you want the following properties:
The sound absorbing core material must have the following characteristics:
*Dense fiberglass board insulation (not loose batt)
*Unfaced
*3lb to 8lb density
*2” thickness
Read:
http://www.acousticsbydesign.com/aco...king-sound.htm
Last edited by NickTee; 05-17-15 at 09:25 AM.
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