Front rotor replacement
#16
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> Does anybody know if there is any difference in the rotors and pads on a 2010+ and a 2007-2009?
Technical Service Information Bulletin L-SB-0070-09 Rev 1 June 4, 2009:
"Some 2007-2009 ES350 vehicles may exhibit a vibration or pulsation condition when braking. New front [and rear] brake pads are available to address customer concerns."
Technical Service Information Bulletin L-SB-0070-09 Rev 1 June 4, 2009:
"Some 2007-2009 ES350 vehicles may exhibit a vibration or pulsation condition when braking. New front [and rear] brake pads are available to address customer concerns."
#17
I'm putting Centric rotors and Akenobo ProACT ceramic pads on my Honda minivan. If I can't get the stealership to service my brakes under L-SB-0070-09 Rev 1 I'll put the same on my ES. I too experience some shimmy when braking from highway speeds.
Why do OEM rotors always have a problem? Toyota and Honda rotors have lots of reports of warping. Some say just have them turned. But if they warped once they'll warp again. I'd rather replace crappy rotors for $38 more than turning the same of junk.
Why do OEM rotors always have a problem? Toyota and Honda rotors have lots of reports of warping. Some say just have them turned. But if they warped once they'll warp again. I'd rather replace crappy rotors for $38 more than turning the same of junk.
#18
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
Actually, the OEM rotors are better than most of your aftermarket rotors...
Not to get into it too much, but the term "warped" is not accurate at all for what happens to rotors, but, the reason behind this pulsation isn't the pads or the rotors, instead its the person behind the wheel...
Main reason for this is parking a car with overly hot brakes - the pads leave a low spot in the rotor and they are no longer parallel... Another reason for this is changing
Slotted rotors won't help, drilled rotors won't help - in fact, both of those lessen the amount of material in the rotor, which means they get hotter faster, though they will cool off faster as well, they don't have enough material... Also, a rotor that is drilled (as an afterthought) is more prone to cracking - a proper drilled rotor isn't drilled at all - instead it has the holes cast into the rotor - this allows the "grain" of the metal to align properly around the holes...
As far as if they've had this problem once, they'll have it again - sure, if you don't change the driving habits - but that has nothing to do with the rotor... There are instances where the brakes have been so abused that it actually changes the metallurgy in the rotor in a small spot (usually about the size of a brake pad, imagine that), and it actually becomes harder material. Another issue is that as you turn any rotor, you remove material, which means it not doesn't have as much heat absorption ability - it gets hotter faster.
For the OP - your fade issue is most likely brake fluid boiling - as has been mentioned - moisture in the fluid lowers the boiling point to ridiculous low points and makes the pedal go low... I would hope you aren't driving so aggressive in traffic to cause the pads to fade like that - even stock brakes should have no problem with very aggressive driving...
Not to get into it too much, but the term "warped" is not accurate at all for what happens to rotors, but, the reason behind this pulsation isn't the pads or the rotors, instead its the person behind the wheel...
Main reason for this is parking a car with overly hot brakes - the pads leave a low spot in the rotor and they are no longer parallel... Another reason for this is changing
Slotted rotors won't help, drilled rotors won't help - in fact, both of those lessen the amount of material in the rotor, which means they get hotter faster, though they will cool off faster as well, they don't have enough material... Also, a rotor that is drilled (as an afterthought) is more prone to cracking - a proper drilled rotor isn't drilled at all - instead it has the holes cast into the rotor - this allows the "grain" of the metal to align properly around the holes...
As far as if they've had this problem once, they'll have it again - sure, if you don't change the driving habits - but that has nothing to do with the rotor... There are instances where the brakes have been so abused that it actually changes the metallurgy in the rotor in a small spot (usually about the size of a brake pad, imagine that), and it actually becomes harder material. Another issue is that as you turn any rotor, you remove material, which means it not doesn't have as much heat absorption ability - it gets hotter faster.
For the OP - your fade issue is most likely brake fluid boiling - as has been mentioned - moisture in the fluid lowers the boiling point to ridiculous low points and makes the pedal go low... I would hope you aren't driving so aggressive in traffic to cause the pads to fade like that - even stock brakes should have no problem with very aggressive driving...
#19
I don't believe in drilled and slotted rotors. Those aren't meant for road cars.
But as for OEM being better I don't believe it. Manufacturers are trying to put the car together for the cheapest price possible that will last the warranty period. Everything goes to the lowest bidder. Toyotal probably paid $5 for the rotors on my car. I doubt they would spend $10 per rotor and buy an awesome rotor from Centrics.
But as for OEM being better I don't believe it. Manufacturers are trying to put the car together for the cheapest price possible that will last the warranty period. Everything goes to the lowest bidder. Toyotal probably paid $5 for the rotors on my car. I doubt they would spend $10 per rotor and buy an awesome rotor from Centrics.
#20
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
I don't believe in drilled and slotted rotors. Those aren't meant for road cars.
But as for OEM being better I don't believe it. Manufacturers are trying to put the car together for the cheapest price possible that will last the warranty period. Everything goes to the lowest bidder. Toyotal probably paid $5 for the rotors on my car. I doubt they would spend $10 per rotor and buy an awesome rotor from Centrics.
But as for OEM being better I don't believe it. Manufacturers are trying to put the car together for the cheapest price possible that will last the warranty period. Everything goes to the lowest bidder. Toyotal probably paid $5 for the rotors on my car. I doubt they would spend $10 per rotor and buy an awesome rotor from Centrics.
#21
I don't believe in drilled and slotted rotors. Those aren't meant for road cars.
But as for OEM being better I don't believe it. Manufacturers are trying to put the car together for the cheapest price possible that will last the warranty period. Everything goes to the lowest bidder. Toyotal probably paid $5 for the rotors on my car. I doubt they would spend $10 per rotor and buy an awesome rotor from Centrics.
But as for OEM being better I don't believe it. Manufacturers are trying to put the car together for the cheapest price possible that will last the warranty period. Everything goes to the lowest bidder. Toyotal probably paid $5 for the rotors on my car. I doubt they would spend $10 per rotor and buy an awesome rotor from Centrics.
Brake rotors are no longer manufactured in the United States or Canada for aftermarket consumption. The “domestic” brands you may be familiar with (Raybestos,Wagner, Bendix, Centric, Motorcraft, Delco) are all manufactured in China/Taiwan. The plants and foundries that used to manufacture for aftermarket in the US and Canada have discontinued production. In addition, the European brands (Brembo, ATE, TRW, etc.) are sourcing a significant portion of their aftermarket rotors from China and Taiwan. Even Mexican rotor manufacturing is practically nonexistent today.
Centric Parts owns StopTech and Power Slot. All Centric Premium, StopTech SportStop, and Power Slot rotors are designed and engineered in-house, then Centric supervises strict manufacturing processes in Asia. They specify their own casting and manufacturing technologies. All parts are double disc ground, balanced, match the OEM vane designs and are E-coated (electrostatically applied black finish to all non-swept surfaces). Most competing brands do not offer all these OE features and benefits. Here’s a link to some additional details: The Centric Advantage - all brake rotors are not created equal
#22
Everything is made in China. Absolutely disgusts me. But what am I going to do about it? Hopefully Centrics does maintain quality control over its products.
My dealer didn't want to warranty the rotors. Said they needed to be turned at the tune of $160. No thanks. I'll do it myself for cheaper.
I guess I'm going to have to buy a 2 day subscription to TIS so I can download all the TSIBs and see which ones I can get my dealer to fix for me before my warranty runs out in November. I was looking at the 2012 models today waiting for my car and they are cutting some real good deals on the 2012 models. You can get a brand new 2012 for cheaper than a 2011 with 20,000 miles on it. But how to explain to the wife?
My dealer didn't want to warranty the rotors. Said they needed to be turned at the tune of $160. No thanks. I'll do it myself for cheaper.
I guess I'm going to have to buy a 2 day subscription to TIS so I can download all the TSIBs and see which ones I can get my dealer to fix for me before my warranty runs out in November. I was looking at the 2012 models today waiting for my car and they are cutting some real good deals on the 2012 models. You can get a brand new 2012 for cheaper than a 2011 with 20,000 miles on it. But how to explain to the wife?
#23
Toyota doesn't make the cheapest car in any class it has a car in... In fact, Toyota commands some of the higher prices in most of its classes... To say Toyota just cares about a car until it is out of warranty is crazy... Don't have the number in front of me, but something like 80 or better percent of all Toyota's sold in the past 20 years are still on the road today... You don't get that by speccing the cheapest parts available...
#24
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Perhaps Toyota specs out really good parts for items that tend to break down in other cars but rotors are a consumable item meant to be worn and replaced. But as for your argument about so many Toyotas still on the road today, I've had my Lexus in the shop for two recalls and many TSIBs and two broken front windows with the dreaded bad clip design. Toyota/Lexus hasn't owned up to the fact that the window clips are crap and will not do anything for you if you are out of warranty. And yes both windows broke outside of the standard warranty period. I've learned my lesson and will NEVER buy a first year of a new generation of any car ever again. Can't wait to start reading the 2013 ES forum in a year from now.
I've read the best time to buy is the mid cycle refresh usual 3rd year.
The last year is great too because the car has been out so long if you can live with an old bodystyle.
On the rotors,I would go oem or high quality aftermarket and not that white box generic rotor that sells a lot.
#25
Front rotors replaced
I just had my front rotors replaced on my 07 ES350. Total with labor $235.66. Have no idea if that's a good or bad deal. Not thru Lexus. Since i had oil change and tire rotation (total $36.31 since they didn't charge for rotation since inspecting brakes. which was $17.95).
Oh, and new battery....mine was original from fall 2006... another $101.10.
I actually was expecting the bill to be worse.... bit over $400, but had a $15 off coupon. Interested in above what others paying. I know one time oil change and tire rotation i believe somewhere north of $125-130 at Lexus just for those 2 items. But then again they wear white gloves and wear ties.
Oh, and new battery....mine was original from fall 2006... another $101.10.
I actually was expecting the bill to be worse.... bit over $400, but had a $15 off coupon. Interested in above what others paying. I know one time oil change and tire rotation i believe somewhere north of $125-130 at Lexus just for those 2 items. But then again they wear white gloves and wear ties.
#26
Front rotors replaced
I just had my front rotors replaced on my 07 ES350. Total with labor $235.66. Have no idea if that's a good or bad deal. Not thru Lexus. Since i had oil change and tire rotation (total $36.31 since they didn't charge for rotation since inspecting brakes. which was $17.95).
Oh, and new battery....mine was original from fall 2006... another $101.10.
I actually was expecting the bill to be worse.... bit over $400, but had a $15 off coupon. Interested in above what others paying. I know one time oil change and tire rotation i believe somewhere north of $125-130 at Lexus just for those 2 items. But then again they wear white gloves and wear ties. And no, i didn't have Lexus do it then either. What a ripoff, and where i have my work done uses same oil, and everything that Lexus does.
Oh, and new battery....mine was original from fall 2006... another $101.10.
I actually was expecting the bill to be worse.... bit over $400, but had a $15 off coupon. Interested in above what others paying. I know one time oil change and tire rotation i believe somewhere north of $125-130 at Lexus just for those 2 items. But then again they wear white gloves and wear ties. And no, i didn't have Lexus do it then either. What a ripoff, and where i have my work done uses same oil, and everything that Lexus does.
#28
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