Wow! finally decided to install JL Audio W6V2 Prowedge subwoofer in the trunk. After adding Sub, the quality of overall sound in the cabin in awesome. This installation satisfied my needs for bass in this car. No modifications were made to the car, just ran 4awg power wire, remote turn on wire and 4 awg ground wired to chasis in the trunk.
Fixed JL Audio slash 500/1 mono amp to the back of subwoofer box, tapped stock subwoofer for speaker level amp input, perfectly tuned to match factory audio (non-ML premium audio with Nav). This subwoofer is no boom box, bass is solid and adequate.
With this addition Lexus ES350 Premium Sound is full.
This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on Club Lexus!
This setup was professionally installed, 12v remote turn on blue color lead taken from fuse box, this works only when car is on, to prevent battery drain. JL amp also comes with "signal sensing" switch which works even without remote turn on enabled with battery power. Remote bass control switch is installed under the driver seat to boost bass if required. (RBC-1). Sub Box is very compact hardly takes little more than a square foot.
Here is specs:
Subwoofer: JL Audio 10" W6V2 Prowedge (Model#CVS110RG W6V2) 600W
Amp: JL Audio Slash 500/1 500W@2ohms (1.5-4 ohms)
Power drawn on the left side through factory firewall passthrough along door jams, to the trunk. Installation was very professional and clean.
If rear seat trunk access door is open from the back seat, the bass becomes almost double since subwoofer is rear firing.
..."12v remote turn on blue color lead taken from fuse box, this works only when car is on"
Hmm, maybe it's an acc on wire, if taken from fuse box and works only when car is on. The remote turn on wire should come from the HU, and turns the amp on only when the HU is switched on. But of course, since your amp has signal sensing feature at speaker level connection, you don't really need the remote turn on wire.
I asked about it earlier because I just did same diy in my 2008 ES 350 and I couldn't find the remote turn on wire (p-cont) from wire harness. I didn't want to dig under dashboard and likewise, just used speaker level setup (and accessory on wire as switch).
I was disgusted with my 07 Es 350 stereo and after extensive research and taking the car to 4 audio shops for reccomendation. I went with the JL Audio power wedge single 12" coupled with an Alpine mono 500 watts amplifier and yes this set up made the once boring sound system come alive. The sound fill the car interior with clean solid bass, not too overbearing , but music you can feel.
1. I don't want to modify or drill holes in the car, therefore decided to fix amp on to the sub box. The Sub box with amp is pretty heavy and fixed to the carpet with Velcro tape, it doesn't move.
2. I installed Dynamat Extreme my self only to the rear deck, where the stock sub is, to prevent any rattles from the rear deck. Other wise sound is very contained in the car and in the trunk. My purpose of installing JL audio sub is to compliment the factory audio, and don't want to have booming bass sound outside of the car.
3. No rattles of any kind even volume level set at 50, just solid bass. Low end bass is barely audible outside of the car at volume level set at 40-45.
4. Factory sub is still connected and now takes care of mid-bass.
Excellent! As soon as I have the bucks to do this I am going the same route. It sounds like we are on the same page as far as containing the sound within the confines of the car.
I have a full Pioneer/JL audio system in my Toyota Tacoma pickup with a fully wrapped cab using Raamat and the sound is superb with barely any sound being heard outside the vehicle even at concert levels. I know they make quality components so I want to stick with JL.
My truck has the following:
Pioneer AVIC-Z3, JL Audio 300/4, 250/1, 2-8W3V2, 4-XR650-Csi.
If the ES350 was easier to convert to all JL I would go that route but it would cost a fortune so just adding the sub should wake it up a bit.
to answer 'Monchie's question, i haven't tried taking amp input from full range front tweeters (or from the amp directly). My project is to keep the sub install as simple as possible and reversible, therefore speaker level stock sub speakers were tapped.
Factory sub/amp is weak below 150 Hz, and the signal taken from the stock sub vs full range really does not matter, since I need sound (bass) below 150 Hz to 20Hz. Also the JL slash amp comes with tones of settings. The amp crossover set at 150Hz, Q control (frequency range 15Hz - 150Hz), Center frequency at 45Hz and adjustable bass boost (somewhere at +12dB), coupled with Head Unit equalizer settings (Highs +2, Mids +2 and Bass+ 1 or +2, disabled ASL, DSP to all seats, 'front seats only' also works) sounded best at all frequencies.
I preferred JL Audio Slash (500/1) amp and W6V2 10"Sub, 'cause this combo produces serious and quality sound, enough power to rock if needed.