ES350Bob

mlawl....

You had posted a link to a Tundra site.

Does remanufactured mean what I think it does?

Is that just a slightly better way of saying rebuilt or used?

And if so I hope people know they are getting rebuilt transmissions in their brand new ES350 implied by TSIB mentioning location of remanufactured serial number.

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...links/links/11

onsknht

Mlawler, I hear what you're saying and I too have carried this idea to the front of the filing cabinet... The warranty by Toyota is fabulous and they have done a great job at fixing issues over the years, I've bought 8 new Toyotas since '92.

This is where it starts getting troubling... Having been such a long time customer, I have a certain expectation when I signed the dotted line. That being I bought a solid vehicle of quality, one that is new and I have the complete history of the vehicle... Anything wrong with the car and I did it, I have nobody to blame but myself!

But...

My Sequoia with less than 25K miles had the front calipers replaced and the ball joints to which the front end was disassembled and beat with hammers the concrete shop floor etc... 2 years old and the front suspension parts were rusted and all the bolt heads rounded and rusted, etc. etc. Then they had the audacity to require the A/C to be TSB'd where they removed the interior (front to back to get to the rear condenser) and treated it the same way they did all the front suspension parts, oh and they still needed to replace the compressor two weeks later cause they smoked the first one on the other stuff... it was a nice truck before all of this now it's a scratched up rebuilt heap,now known as the Secrappa.

My CLAMry... Yes, I've resorted to calling it what it is a CLAM!!! It's a bottom feeder with no suspension! Just a tad over 3K miles it needs a major overhaul!!!

I no longer have a nice new car, I will instead have a beat up remanufactured hunk of junk... Wanna know why? Well here's a little list of what all is involved just to get the transmission out of the car!

Warranty or not, Toyota or not, I am flaming pi$$ed about this.

REMOVAL
NOTICE:
• When the automatic transaxle is replaced, the
transaxle's compensation code must be input into the
TCM (See page AX-19).
• When the TCM is replaced, the existing transaxle
compensation codes must be input into the new TCM
(See page AX-22).
• If the following parts have been replaced, initialize the
TCM and perform a road test to allow the TCM to learn
(See page AX-25).
– Valve body assembly
– Shift solenoid SL3
– Shift solenoid SL4
• If the following parts have been replaced, perform a
road test to allow the TCM to learn (See page AX-25).
– Shift solenoid SL1
– Shift solenoid SL2
• If the TCM or transaxle has been replaced, register the
transmission compensation code in the TCM (See
page AX-19).
• Perform the RESET MEMORY (AT initialization) when
replacing the automatic transmission assembly,
engine assembly or ECM (See page AX-25).
1. DISCHARGE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
HINT:
(See page FU-1)
2. DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE BATTERY
TERMINAL
3. PLACE FRONT WHEELS FACING STRAIGHT AHEAD
4. REMOVE FRONT WHEELS
5. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER LH
6. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER RH
7. REMOVE FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL RH
8. DRAIN ENGINE OIL
9. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT (See page CO-5)
10. DRAIN AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID
(a) Remove the refill plug and gasket.
(b) Using a 6 mm socket hexagon wrench, remove the
overflow plug and gasket.
(c) Using a 6 mm socket hexagon wrench, remove the
No. 1 transmission oil filler tube.
(d) Drain the automatic transaxle fluid.
(e) Using a 6 mm socket hexagon wrench, install the
No. 1 transmission oil filler tube.
Torque: 1.7 N*m (17 kgf*cm, 15 in.*lbf)
(f) Using a 6 mm socket hexagon wrench, install the
overflow plug with a new gasket.
Torque: 40 N*m (408 kgf*cm, 30 ft.*lbf)
(g) Install the refill plug with a new gasket.
Torque: 49 N*m (500 kgf*cm, 36 ft.*lbf)
11. REMOVE WINDSHIELD WIPER LINK ASSEMBLY
HINT:
(See page WW-9)
12. REMOVE COWL TOP PANEL OUTER SUBASSEMBLY
(See page ES-481)
13. REMOVE COOL AIR INTAKE DUCT SEAL (See page
EM-23)
14. REMOVE V-BANK COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY (See
page EM-23)
15. REMOVE V-RIBBED BELT (See page EM-6)
16. REMOVE AIR CLEANER INLET ASSEMBLY (See
page EM-24)
17. REMOVE AIR CLEANER CAP SUB-ASSEMBLY (See
page ES-503)
18. REMOVE AIR CLEANER CASE SUB-ASSEMBLY (See
page EM-24)
19. REMOVE NO. 1 AIR CLEANER INLET (See page EM-
24)
20. REMOVE BATTERY (See page EM-24)
21. REMOVE INTAKE AIR RESONATOR SUB-ASSEMBLY
(See page EM-25)
22. REMOVE NO. 2 ENGINE MOUNTING STAY RH (See
page EM-25)
23. REMOVE ENGINE MOVING CONTROL ROD SUBASSEMBLY
(See page EM-25)
24. DISCONNECT NO. 1 FUEL VAPOR FEED HOSE (See
page EM-25)
25. DISCONNECT CHECK VALVE TO BRAKE BOOSTER
HOSE (See page EM-25)
26. REMOVE RADIATOR HOSE INLET (See page EM-26)
27. REMOVE RADIATOR HOSE OUTLET (See page EM-
26)
28. DISCONNECT NO. 1 OIL COOLER INLET HOSE (See
page EM-26)
29. DISCONNECT NO. 1 OIL COOLER OUTLET HOSE
(See page EM-26)
30. DISCONNECT HEATER INLET WATER HOSE (See
page EM-26)
31. DISCONNECT HEATER OUTLET WATER HOSE (See
page EM-26)
32. REMOVE ECM (See page ES-518)
33. REMOVE RELAY BLOCK COVER UPPER
34. DISCONNECT ENGINE WIRE (See page EM-27)
35. SEPARATE WIRE HARNESS
(a) Remove the bolt and disconnect the wire harness.
36. DISCONNECT CONNECTOR
(a) Disconnect the park/neutral position switch
connector.
37. DISCONNECT TRANSMISSION CONTROL CABLE
ASSEMBLY (See page EM-27)
38. SEPARATE FUEL TUBE SUB-ASSEMBLY (See page
EM-28)
39. DISCONNECT NO. 1 OIL RESERVOIR TO PUMP
HOSE (See page EM-28)
40. DISCONNECT RETURN TUBE SUB-ASSEMBLY (See
page EM-28)
41. REMOVE EXHAUST PIPE NO. 1 SUPPORT BRACKET
(See page EX-3)
42. REMOVE EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY FRONT (See
page EX-3)
43. REMOVE FRONT AXLE HUB NUT LH (See page DS-
7)
44. REMOVE FRONT AXLE HUB NUT RH (See page EM-
28)
45. DISCONNECT FRONT STABILIZER LINK ASSEMBLY
LH (See page DS-7)
46. DISCONNECT FRONT STABILIZER LINK ASSEMBLY
RH (See page EM-29)
47. DISCONNECT FRONT SPEED SENSOR LH (See page
DS-7)
48. DISCONNECT FRONT SPEED SENSOR RH (See
page EM-29)
49. DISCONNECT TIE ROD ASSEMBLY LH (See page
DS-8)
50. DISCONNECT TIE ROD ASSEMBLY RH (See page
EM-29)
51. DISCONNECT FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER NO. 1
ARM LH (See page DS-8)
52. DISCONNECT FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER NO. 1
ARM RH (See page EM-29)
53. SEPARATE FRONT AXLE ASSEMBLY LH (See page
DS-8)
54. SEPARATE FRONT AXLE ASSEMBLY RH (See page
EM-29)
55. REMOVE NO. 1 EXHAUST PIPE SUPPORT BRACKET
(See page EM-29)
56. REMOVE FLYWHEEL HOUSING UNDER COVER
(a) Remove the 2 bolts, exhaust pipe support bracket
and flywheel housing under cover.
57. REMOVE DRIVE PLATE AND TORQUE CONVERTER
CLUTCH SETTING BOLT
(a) Turn the crankshaft to gain access and remove the
6 bolts while holding the crankshaft pulley bolt with a
wrench.
58. DISCONNECT STEERING SLIDING YOKE (See page
PS-40)
59. REMOVE GENERATOR ASSEMBLY (See page CH-14)
60. SEPARATE COOLER COMPRESSOR ASSEMBLY
(See page EM-29)
61. REMOVE ENGINE ASSEMBLY WITH TRANSAXLE
(See page EM-29)
62. REMOVE VANE PUMP ASSEMBLY (See page EM-30)
63. INSTALL ENGINE HANGERS (See page EM-30)
64. REMOVE FRONT FRAME ASSEMBLY (See page EM-
30)
65. REMOVE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY LH (See
page DS-9)
66. REMOVE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY RH (See
page DS-9)
67. REMOVE ENGINE WIRE
68. REMOVE STARTER ASSEMBLY (See page ST-141)
69. REMOVE AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY
(a) Remove the bolt and breather bracket from the
camshaft housing sub-assembly LH.
(b) Remove the breather hose from the breather
bracket.
(c) Remove the 11 bolts.
(d) Separate and remove the automatic transaxle.
70. REMOVE TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH
ASSEMBLY
(a) Put matchmarks on the transaxle housing and
torque converter clutch assembly.
(b) Remove the torque converter clutch assembly from
the automatic transaxle assembly.
71. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING FRONT BRACKET
(a) Remove the 3 bolts and engine mounting front
bracket.
72. REMOVE TCM
(a) Remove the 2 bolts and TCM from the transaxle.
73. REMOVE SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN HOLE COVER
SUB-ASSEMBLY
(a) Remove the bolt and hole cover from the transaxle
case.
(b) Remove the O-ring from the hole cover.
74. REMOVE WIRE HARNESS CLAMP BRACKET
(a) Remove the 4 bolts and 4 clamp brackets.
75. REMOVE NO. 1 TRANSMISSION CONTROL CABLE
BRACKET
(a) Remove the 2 bolts and No.1 transmission control
cable bracket.
76. SEPARATE OIL COOLER OUTLET HOSE
(a) Separate the oil cooler outlet hose.
77. SEPARATE OIL COOLER INLET HOSE
(a) Separate the oil cooler inlet hose.

garsarno

No wonder it took 2-1/2 days to replace our transmission. As of today, it shifts well. By the way, on e-bay motors, there are two ES350s for sale, one with 1,000 miles and one with 3,000 miles, both are Lexus buy backs because of transmission issues.

onsknht

My guy seems to think it'll take him a day to get this done??? I'm thinking the only way this is going to get done is if I take a couple days off work and supervise the Removal and Replacement with a clipboard and pen in hand... Checking off each and every one of the steps, remember the reassembly is even more steps than it is to remove.

BTW - - I'm just loving number 61!!!!

61. REMOVE ENGINE ASSEMBLY WITH TRANSAXLE
(See page EM-29)

onsknht

Oh I forgot to mention... There's about to be a totally mint 2007 SE V6 CLAMry up for auction on e-bay... I'm thinking this might have to be another reality before the dealer starts stripping bolts --->> Explore the possibility of selling for best $$, if I trade I'll get hit more, looking around a new SE V6 is still commanding above invoice prices?

Tranny replacement will definitely show up on VIN search?

Mlawler

I cant dispute the problems with reman parts, certainly I wouldnt attempt to. However take a look at how many times the so beloved GS and others show up on these....interesting

If I pull TSB's for every car out there, no matter the costs I will fine lots of issues...not that it is right, I wont argue that either because it isnt...

I was only suggesting you could go there and see the complete TSB's. Thats all.

wanderer99

So in my case I had a '1' transmission in my ES as my build date was 04/06. Trans TSIB was applied and failed, so they then replaced the trans to get me a working unit.

The trans was in stock and replaced in early Dec, so I've most likely ended up with a '2' transmission. Which makes sense as to why its still flaring away like before, even though its a new trans. Once my 2000kms of 'testing' for Lexus Canada are up on this trans, I guess we're onto trans #3.

So at this point what I really need is a '3' transmission.

This explains a lot actually. It explains why the trans replacements were failing, as they also had the flare problem as they were most likely the '2' transmissions.

PDG810810

I have about 7K miles on my 350 now, and about 1200 miles on my replaced tranny. About 4 days ago the shift flare started again, although it is not quite as consistent as my first one. My dealer was able to reproduce the problem. I am done. I called the dealership GM and told him I wanted out and into a new GS 350. I am going up to chat with them today after they find the car I'm looking for.
At this point they are NOT doing a buy back, at least not for what I paid for the car. Ther probably is no clear policy on this, is it a dealership option or is there corporate direction? Maybe I have too many miles on the car for a full buy back. Obviously I am not one of the lucky ones whe it comes to 350 troubles. Lexus should treat me well, this was my 4th car from them.

garsarno

Lexus needs to step up and announce a recall for the transmissions. It would enchance their customer loyalty instead of aggravate. Corporate Lexus will probably be sorry after the 2007 quality ratings come out from Consumer Reports and the others this spring and they see the ES350 as a model to avoid.

tnedator

They can't very well announce a recall until they know they have a fix that works.

twister

Buyback is not upto a dealership but rather a Corporate Lexus. Put a pressure on your dealership, they're well aware of this. My dealer has worked with Eastern Lexus corporate office and done a number of buybacks, including some recently. Of course, your dealer wants an easy way out with a trade in where you gonna loose a lot of money. Buyback will give you every penny you paid for the car, not sure about your state laws regarding taxes. In NJ when you trade into a new Lexus, you pay a tax on difference between two cars. When talking to your dealership about GS350, try to get invoice price. If they tell you about "its not our fault, why do we have to sell at no profit", let them know Corporate Lexus office will cover their holdback and can give extra insentives, and in addition they can do some tricks to wave registration fee if you keep the same license plate. Just as an exampe if you will go from your fully loaded ES into GS with no NAV and no ML, you should expect to pay at most a couple of grands out of the pocket.

Good luck and keep us updated!!!

twister

Recall can be announced only when the problem is confirmed to be across EVERY ES350 model. This is a totally random thing, and they still trying to figure out how to fix it.

ES350Bob

pdg.

If your dealer is going to give you a great deal on GS I'd say take it and avoid the hassle of several or anymore trips to svc. on newer transmission toward a buyback. Close or near 10 percent off MSRP on GS and reasonable amount for your ES in trade value against it...go for it.

I'm contemplating what I want to do before calling my dealer as this 2nd one has the trans flare and I am just totally over trips to svc. from former one and I would not waste my time contacting corporate and I do not believe the trans issue is solved at all anyway and refuse to subject myself to that process.

ES350Bob

Corporate is who created this cluster-you-know-what of approach to the problems of the ES350.

I feel sorry for the consumers caught up in this nightmare but having owned my own business I also feel much empathy for the decent dealers out there who are the front men in dealing with this as this is their future livelihood at stake. No empathy for the devious dealers, plenty for the decent ones.

kingofire

Why are people settling for the GS? It seems like people buy the GS because its the next lowest price car. I would think that people who bought the ES would not like the ride of the GS? I had that choice and as much as I loved the interior of the GS, way better than the ES, I couldnt stand the ride. It was somewhat bumpy and rigid and the steering was numb. I would definately check out the Infiniti G35 or M35 before getting into the GS. Handling is tight and the car is not as rigid as GS. To me the Lexus GS is primarily produced just to compete and fill the void of the "sports car" segment. There is a reason why lexus is known as "Luxury" and i feel that the GS comes short in both luxury and sportiness. Seems like Lexus didnt want it to be too luxurious for critics to snitch and say its too luxurious to be a sports car yet they didnt want it to be too sporty so they would not lose the customers that come to the dealership looking for luxury. JMO.