Nav/audio head unit removal steps
#16
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I don't know what you mean by "HD radio". It's the standard Lexus model that comes with the premium plus package, not the Mark Levinson model, nor is it satellite.
You should find no differences in the above disassembly procedures no matter which audio unit you have.
You should find no differences in the above disassembly procedures no matter which audio unit you have.
#17
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HD Radio
Sorry, I didn’t make myself clear. I ordered a 2007 ES 350 with a ML radio. New radios are starting to appear which have sub channels on the FM band. http://www.hdradio.com/index.php This site will explain. The short of it is that the station can scroll the artist, song title and lots of other information across the display. You can also search for a particular genre, i.e. country, classical .
#18
BMW was supposed to have offered HD radios as a factory option this year, but I didn't see it on any cars I looked at. Lexus does not offer this yet, but I would suspect it will in the 2008 model year.
#22
The official answer per Toyota's guidelines is "yes" - which is the safest approach. In reality, "no". Just be sure to touch the metal body of the car before touching any of the audio system's electrical connectors to discharge any static charge from your body. And, of course, have the car's ignition "off" when you do the work. If you do decide to disconnect the battery, just take off the negative battery cable. You'll need to reprogram your radio stations, seat position memories, etc., after disconnecting the battery. Your navigation system data will not be lost (but the options/settings will be reset to defaults).
#23
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The official answer per Toyota's guidelines is "yes" - which is the safest approach. In reality, "no". Just be sure to touch the metal body of the car before touching any of the audio system's electrical connectors to discharge any static charge from your body. And, of course, have the car's ignition "off" when you do the work. If you do decide to disconnect the battery, just take off the negative battery cable. You'll need to reprogram your radio stations, seat position memories, etc., after disconnecting the battery. Your navigation system data will not be lost (but the options/settings will be reset to defaults).
I've disassembled my head unit six times now for various reasons and to get the pictures in this thread, and I've never disconnected the battery. No harm done and I've kept all my settings.
#25
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#28
One caution tip, when removing the **** wood plate, put masking tape on the gap between it and the nav console, because when removing the bottom plate at an 30 degree angle, it tend to pinch the nav console at the edge and damage two side chrome rails.
When reassembling the console, put a masking tape on the bottom edge of the nav console so that the bottom plate (****) doesn't rub on bottom edge of the nav console.
For those who install the Vaistech VML, where did you put the box ?? i will have to relocate mine which is on the hole deep under the nav unit.
Anyway, very helpful pictures and contribution.
When reassembling the console, put a masking tape on the bottom edge of the nav console so that the bottom plate (****) doesn't rub on bottom edge of the nav console.
For those who install the Vaistech VML, where did you put the box ?? i will have to relocate mine which is on the hole deep under the nav unit.
Anyway, very helpful pictures and contribution.
#29
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Just did this tonight
This is my first post. And my first Lexus, incidentally. Installed the vaistech just now, and it was just about what I expected.
I installed the vaistech box kind of above the gas pedal, but inside the dash area more (not directly above the pedal). I velcroed the box to the inside of the dash. It's solid up there. Not that I ever would, but I can access the box easily if I need to replace it.
I also pulled out the ashtray, and drilled a hole through that back panel which held the ashtray. Ran the cable through there, and (for now) put electrical tape all around the back of the (former) ash tray holder. I have a little nano (the new kind) and it just sits inside that little alcove where the ashtray used to be. Fits perfectly. I haven't seen it in the daylight yet, but obviously with that little flap closed you won't even see the iPod. Plus I can access the iPod easily if I need to. The glove box seemed too far to reach to get the iPod.
This seems like a great community. Lots of great tips. Thanks!
I installed the vaistech box kind of above the gas pedal, but inside the dash area more (not directly above the pedal). I velcroed the box to the inside of the dash. It's solid up there. Not that I ever would, but I can access the box easily if I need to replace it.
I also pulled out the ashtray, and drilled a hole through that back panel which held the ashtray. Ran the cable through there, and (for now) put electrical tape all around the back of the (former) ash tray holder. I have a little nano (the new kind) and it just sits inside that little alcove where the ashtray used to be. Fits perfectly. I haven't seen it in the daylight yet, but obviously with that little flap closed you won't even see the iPod. Plus I can access the iPod easily if I need to. The glove box seemed too far to reach to get the iPod.
This seems like a great community. Lots of great tips. Thanks!
#30
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Huge Thank you!!!
Just wanted to thank Dreyfus for a wonderful writeup.
I was doing the mod on my girlfriend's car, for her birthday, which made me nervous about breaking her 40k car!!!
I did the mod this Monday, and thanks to the clear instructions, it went super smooth. I had some slight trouble getting the aircon vent off, but realized that a small pry in the lower left corner, while pulling the center hard popped it right off.
Thanks to Sonartech's warnings, I was super careful not to drop the 10mm bolts into the car.
I had already soldered leads onto my switch, and mounted it in the ashtray hold, on the front side. This took drilling a small hole for the switch.
I pushed the passenger seat way forward, and used several pillows so that when I pulled the head unit, I did not have to disconnect anything. This made the mod much easier. Snip the light blue wire about five inches from the head unit, crimp on the quick connect connectors, then hook them to the leads from my switch, and I was up and running. I drove around the block to check everything, and it all worked. Then I put the unit back in the dash, making sure not to crush the wire leading to my switch. Around the block once more to double check everything. Then bolted it back in, popped the aircon vent back on.
The shifter cover was a little hard to get on, I found I had to seat the front fully first, then pop the back on. I had tape over the bottom of the head unit to protect it, so no scratches.
Anyway, it all went well. I think it took about an hour or so, as I did it very slowly so as not to break anything. I think I could do it in 15 minutes the second time. The most time consuming was soldering the leads onto the switch, as I suck at soldering. Drilling the hole in the ashtray holder was slow too, as I drilled a succession of larger holes so as not to end up with a too big hole.
The ashtray mount is great, as a flat push button switch Radio shack 275-1565, fits nicely there, and allows the passenger to access the override. Also, if can be restored simply by pulling the switch and putting the ashtray back in.
I might upgrade the switch at some point to an illuminated switch, but that's easy, since all I have to do is use crimp connectors.
Thanks again. My girlfriend loves the mod. Happy Birthday Sweetie!
I was doing the mod on my girlfriend's car, for her birthday, which made me nervous about breaking her 40k car!!!
I did the mod this Monday, and thanks to the clear instructions, it went super smooth. I had some slight trouble getting the aircon vent off, but realized that a small pry in the lower left corner, while pulling the center hard popped it right off.
Thanks to Sonartech's warnings, I was super careful not to drop the 10mm bolts into the car.
I had already soldered leads onto my switch, and mounted it in the ashtray hold, on the front side. This took drilling a small hole for the switch.
I pushed the passenger seat way forward, and used several pillows so that when I pulled the head unit, I did not have to disconnect anything. This made the mod much easier. Snip the light blue wire about five inches from the head unit, crimp on the quick connect connectors, then hook them to the leads from my switch, and I was up and running. I drove around the block to check everything, and it all worked. Then I put the unit back in the dash, making sure not to crush the wire leading to my switch. Around the block once more to double check everything. Then bolted it back in, popped the aircon vent back on.
The shifter cover was a little hard to get on, I found I had to seat the front fully first, then pop the back on. I had tape over the bottom of the head unit to protect it, so no scratches.
Anyway, it all went well. I think it took about an hour or so, as I did it very slowly so as not to break anything. I think I could do it in 15 minutes the second time. The most time consuming was soldering the leads onto the switch, as I suck at soldering. Drilling the hole in the ashtray holder was slow too, as I drilled a succession of larger holes so as not to end up with a too big hole.
The ashtray mount is great, as a flat push button switch Radio shack 275-1565, fits nicely there, and allows the passenger to access the override. Also, if can be restored simply by pulling the switch and putting the ashtray back in.
I might upgrade the switch at some point to an illuminated switch, but that's easy, since all I have to do is use crimp connectors.
Thanks again. My girlfriend loves the mod. Happy Birthday Sweetie!
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