tomf

Sounds like a bad master cylinder to me.

navdeepasi

A lot of interesting ideas out there. So from what I've researched I've found people with similar issues on camry's. The problem they had was air stuck in the abs system. The abs-trac system on some have a bleeder valve, this model however does not.

There is a toyota SST that lets you put pressure on the reservoir, and you open the bleeder on the abs unit to get the air out. On ones without bleeders you have to do a basic bleed, connect a DRB scan tool to the data link connector (DLC) and activate the ABS test cycle. Then bleed for a second time.

I found a video for older civic's and accords where a guy activates the ABS by just connecting the relay to ground wire (in the abs relay) to the negative terminal of the battery, and opens the ABS bleeder. I'm not sure if the ES has something similar. I was thinking if I could do something similar to activate the ABS, but open a bleeder on one of the wheels? Sounds a bit bootleg. Might just have to suck it up and take it in.

I'm thinking the reasoning the front right isn't braking as hard as the front left is because the ABS unit is on the right side, and the master on the left, The master side doesn't have air in it and the ABS side does, so that side is having more air compress than the left so it isn't braking as hard? Might be a dumb theory but curious what people think.

navdeepasi

My thinking is that the initial issue was caused by a stuck caliper? When I opened one side up to change the pads the boot was torn, pads had very little wear compared to the other side, and the piston was VERY difficult to compress. I had a friend pump the brakes, push the piston out, then I would compress it, and every so often it would get stuck, then I would tap the brakes again to move it a bit, then compress till I finally got it back.

speedkar9

Any lights on the dash? You could have ruptured the ABS wires when replacing the struts causing it to foul wheel speed readings.

Did you replace the calipers with rebuilt units? Its possible you've got a defective caliper that's seized and not allowing pressure through to the pads. Also check the slider pins that they're well lubricated and not seized.

To "bleed" the ABS unit, you'll have to go on a slippery road and press the brakes hard to engage the ABS, causing it to cycle fluid (and thus air, if any) out to the wheel brake line where it can be bled.

Also check the brake lines and hoses for leaks or restrictions.

navdeepasi

No lights on the dash. The calipers were re-built units. I think the first thing I will try is extending the pistons off of the rotor to make sure they all work correctly and then compress them, then take it out and get the ABS to engage and then re-bleed. If I'm checking for restrictions am I just looking for continuity in the brake hoses?

navdeepasi

I want to thank everyone for their input, it has been invaluable. After a lot of research on the topic, I think the issue was pre-existing, and my original reasoning for replacing the calipers was wrong. The issue from the start was probably one of the two springs in the master cylinder. One feeds the front left and rear right, and one feeds the front right and rear left. I think the one feeding the front right and rear left is shot, so those two wheels aren't braking as hard as the others. I'm leaving the new calipers since they were difficult to retract anyway, and I'm giving the car to my girlfriend so I want it to be safe. I'll give you guys updates after replacing the master cylinder. Got one from rockauto for 68 bucks shipped, with traction control and reservoir.

- Anyone have advice on bench bleeding this type of master cylinder?

speedkar9

Which master cylinder did you order for $68? I hope it lasts....that sounds too cheap to be good.

Bench bleeding is fairly straight forward,

navdeepasi

This is the master cylinder: http://www.cardone.com/Products/Prod...=132841&p=rock

speedkar9

Well I hope it lasts you a while, all the reviews I've read say Cardone quality is a crapshoot.

BTW I think Toyota sells a rebuild kit for the master cylinder:

http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...449321010.html

LeX2K

I personally don't trust any aftermarket/rebuilt master cylinder, yea the Lexus unit is expensive but if you have to the job twice it looks like a bargain. Putting in a rebuild kit is easy but if the original seals failed then it is very possible the cylinder bore is rusted or otherwise damaged due to lack of regular fluid changes.

ES300NZ

I've rebuilt quite a few myself, it's quite a simple process, usually it's wheel cylinders on a very old car but I've done master cylinders, and clutch slaves too. There are special tools which will fix a bore that's damaged (to a certain point). Brakes are actually very simple.

navdeepasi

So I got around to changing the master, I bench bled it (I actually used a tree and pushed the plunger until no more air came through the bleeder kit. With the new master cylinder it no longer pulls right under hard braking!. Most of the issues are gone, Pedal feel is a bit soft but I'm sure that's because I haven't bled the brakes yet. Thanks for all your input! It seems that the first piston in the master cylinder was no good, which feeds front right rear left, and the second one which feeds front left and rear right was working. Now it stops on a dime (I got brembo pads for the front for 12 bucks on clearance at rockauto). Just have to bleed it to get rid of that mushy pedal.

navdeepasi

If anyone is reading this and plans on changing the master cylinder itself: loosen the brake lines first. then loosen the mounting nuts. It took me an hour to get the master cylinder off, had to hammer it off with a 5 lbs sled, I put a C-clamp against the upper port, and hammered it out, I almost gave up at one point. The new one came with a rubber seal which wasn't on the old one (yes I'm sure it wasn't stuck anywhere). Assembly in reverse. I left the bleeder kit my master cylinder came with on when mounting it, then took each one off just before putting the brake lines back on to minimize spillage. The line that is lower and on the drivers side is more difficult, not a lot of play in it so don't tighten the mounting nuts too much just yet. It would have really helped having an extra hand at this point but I managed just fine by myself.