wbarnwell

129,000 miles. She is asking 6500, but I believe she will sell it to me for 6000. The main question is reliability. I need this car to get me another 100,000 miles. Its been well maintained, in great condition, with regular checkups. Its stayed in one family, between two grandmothers and a granddaughter. The only issue she mentioned is a crack in the windshield, which is why I think she will sell it for 6. What do I need to look for when I go to drive it this afternoon? And knowing I will be commuting heavily over the next three years, and need reliability, what are your thoughts? Thanks in advance!

Oro

Ours (02, same car) has 235k on it now and runs near-new. It has taken nothing besides regular maintenance. Though, after 100k that includes suspension (struts, maybe springs) and timing belt changes, regular at fluid changes, sensor cleanings, plugs, etc.: some things that are often ignored.

The 1st thing to document is to see if the t-belt was done on time (c. 90k) or at least done since then. Bounce the corners of the car and see if struts are shot, listen to hear if PS pump, alternator are groaning or bearings squeaking and need rebuilt/replaced, examine disks and pads if you can and if possible jack up each end briefly and spin the wheels and try to rock up/down/back forth to see if bad bearings or other suspension components are present. If the car has a hard down-shift when decelerating, this is not unusual and can be addressed with a transmission additive, then new synthetic fluid, and checking front and top motor mounts (they break but are not too hard or expensive to replace). It is basically programmed into the PCU but you can minimize it with good maintenance. The engine and transmission in these will last a very long time - and perform wonderfully in that time - if maintained.

I think these make great commuter cars with reasonable mileage, good size and comfort and very neutral driving manners. We are driving ours to Idaho and back this coming weekend.

wbarnwell

Thank you for taking the time to give me a very informative post. I appreciate that. I'm going to see it this afternoon. It is priced well, so hopefully everything checks out, although I need to go back through your check-list and make sure that I know exactly what I am looking for. Again, thank you.

Question: if the timing belt has been changed, but lets say just recently at 120k and not at 90k, is that a problem. Or is it only important that it has been done. Also, if it has not been done, along with the other things you have mentioned, should that be a negotiating point for me? Or, a reason to walk away?

Oro

[QUOTE=wbarnwell;8947237
Question: if the timing belt has been changed, but lets say just recently at 120k and not at 90k, is that a problem. Or is it only important that it has been done. Also, if it has not been done, along with the other things you have mentioned, should that be a negotiating point for me? Or, a reason to walk away?[/QUOTE]

No, it's not really bad. But it implies someone wasn't carefuly w/maintenance intervals and that's an important one. Frankly, belt intervals are designed to be conservative so no issues arrive and running past one is usually uneventful. It can take $600 to $900 to get the job done so it's a negotiating point on price as well as other needed maintenance. I like to look at edmunds.com, figure the "outstanding" private party value based on options/zip code, etc. Then deduct from there neglected or obvious needed/missed maintenance.

wbarnwell

Well, test drive didn't go as well as I hoped. Just needs some work, new tires, new brake pads, crack in the windshield, and I didn't ask, because my mind was already made up, but I'd bet it needed a new t-belt as well. Oh well, moving on.

speedkar9

Tires, brakes and windshields are part of normal wear and tear. If the car is otherwise in good condition, I wouldn't cross it off the list just yet if the seller is willing to negotiate those things into the price.