tru2au

Yes, I have replaced about every part that goes on this car but evidently there is another one that needs replaced. I have replaced both Knock Sensors and the wire, throttle position switch, Map sensor, alternator, starter, power steering pump and hose, timing belt, battery, 1 coil, gas and air filter, radiator and this all has been done in the last month. I just want to get it to run good so I can get rid of this car.
I have a broken Intake Air temperature sensor. I think it works but the hose connector got broke. Will this effect the stalling, hesitation or rough idling? The strangest thing is it doesn't do it all the time. It may do it for about 5 seconds and then run good. Anytime it starts doing it I just speed up really fast. I have noticed that it idles rough when its in drive and setting still or when I am driving and mashing the gas. Does anyone have any idea where to start? I thought about replacing the plugs and did research on it. The videos show where the wiring connector to the coil can get damaged. Just wondering if that could be a the case.The only code I get is for the Intake Air Temperature Sensor which is completely off the car and not connected. Does anyone have any idea where to start? Thanks for any help you can provide. Chris

PFB

Does it also do it when you drive it in reverse, or only in Neutral and Drive?

Also, What intake air temperature sensor are you referring to? Is that the one that shows the outside ambient air temperature on the Climate Control Panel?

What code arroyo getting?

Phil

ES300NZ

I read what you wrote. I had alot of trouble following you to be honest.

The MAF or AFM in new money is both a flow detecting sensor, and a air tempature sensor (if it has 5 or more wires). There are two peices of 'Thorium' ? (unobtainium really), which change resistance according to flow / volume / temp.

Replace your AFM / MAF sensor. Most of the issues you describe sound like they could be caused by that. Also, you mentioned a 'hose being off' .. if the hose is after the MAF sensor, that's bad, put it back on. That's a massive vaccum leak.

It might also be that the engine is 'out of time', as in the timing belt has been incorrectly installed.

The behaviour of you engine will be caused by the condition of it. If it's got issues, it won't behave nicely. If it's in perfect condition, it's gunna play nice. Think of it like a woman with a headache at the moment. Once you solve the problems it has, then it will run just fine.

I'm very experienced with cars, and solving problems. Sometimes I can't figure something out, or just aren't sure where to look. When I find myself in that position I accept I'm stuck and pay someone to look over the car and give me some advice on where to start. Because I'm honest, and tell them what I want, and what I'm asking for this is often free, or low cost. I strongly suggest you stop throwing parts at this car and do that.

Wht95scort

How did you take out the air temp sensor? It's built into the mass air. If you have a cracked intake tube and its sucking in unmetered air it will cause stalling and poor idle.

EPayne42

Get thee new oil control valves (VVTi). My car did the same thing and the new OCV's cured it.

lostape45

You should definitely pull some codes again. P1354 and p1349 are failed oil control valves (what he said up above me) and are most likely your issue. I had the exact same symptoms and that cured my problem.

danlongwir

have you cleaned the idle air control valve (idle speed control solenoid,idle air bypass valve,etc.)

dsigala

I recently changed my cylinder #4 ignition coil because of misfiring issue-- 3 weeks went by and today the check engine light came on and the car was idling a little rough when it was stopped(on a red light, etc.), seems to be fine with its being driven. Took it to Advance Auto to get the code read: P1349. I've read many forum pages pointing to VVT malfunction but I am a bit confused on the matter. I am college student so I if I can, I plan to repair this myself before heading to a shop to take a look at it. P1349 points to an issue in Bank 1: is there a diagram/schematic citing where bank 1 is and what exactly do I have to replace/clean(solenoid/filter). If i can get someone to help me out, I would really appreciate it. Looking for diagram/schematic for location of bank 1/solenoid/filter for a 2000 ES300.

tomf

See reply here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es3...151-p1349.html