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Help with oil control valve plug

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Old 01-30-15, 04:05 PM
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cghelton
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Default Help with oil control valve plug

How in the heck do I get the connector off the oil control valve on bank1? I'm getting a P1349 code and all things point to that.
Problem is, that connector won't budge and I don't want to pull the wires out. Don't you just push down on the top and pull outwwards?

Any ideas? I tried using the search feature, but it won't allow newbs to search until after 30 posts I believe...sigh.

Thanks very much in advance.

1999 ES300

Last edited by cghelton; 01-30-15 at 05:05 PM.
Old 01-30-15, 05:09 PM
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Oro
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I don't have the car w/me to look, but I recall having trouble getting those off last summer.

I think I had to insert a very small screwdriver and pry a release tab upward while pulling the connector off at the same time. Look closely at it w/a flashlight and it should be apparent. I recall it was slightly tricky or backwards vs. some of the other engine control connectors on the intake, etc.
Old 01-30-15, 05:31 PM
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cghelton
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Thanks alot Oro. I was trying to push down. I'll give that a shot with a small screw driver.

*edit* I tried again, no luck...What a pita.

Last edited by cghelton; 01-30-15 at 05:40 PM.
Old 01-31-15, 01:14 AM
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cghelton
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Anyone else?

Thanks
Old 01-31-15, 04:07 AM
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tomf
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Ditto on inserting a screwdriver or an "L" shaped tool that you can use to raise the tab over the bump. Once you raise the tab up high enough you can pull the connector off. The tool has to get under the tab to raise it up. If the tool is not under the tab it will only make the connection more secure. The arrows in the picture show which side to insert the tool in.

So insert screwdriver to raise tab over bump and simultaneously pull connector off.

If you can not get a good grip on the connector, a pair of vise grips can help if it is not set too tight. The vise grips will also help raise the opposite end of the tap over the bump.

Sometimes it helps to push the connector together because if the tab is jammed against the bump, the tap is prevented from raising up.

You are correct in saying that pushing down on the tab should release the connector because doing so should raise the opposite end of the tab up so it is over the bump. But sometimes it needs a little help, hence the screwdriver.








How to disconnect connector.

Last edited by tomf; 01-31-15 at 04:36 AM.
Old 01-31-15, 04:19 AM
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Originally Posted by cghelton
Thanks alot Oro. I was trying to push down. I'll give that a shot with a small screw driver.

*edit* I tried again, no luck...What a pita.
You still need to push down. The screwdriver goes in the opposite side. See picture in previous post.
Old 02-02-15, 12:55 AM
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cghelton
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Thanks a lot tomf for the detailed explanation and pictures!!
I'll give it a try after work today and report back.
Old 02-02-15, 03:17 PM
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Yes indeed that was a heck of a good answer he gave.

Thinking back on this I recall even being careful, I managed to break one before I sussed the exact secret squirrel handshake. If you do that, don't fret. It's easy to secure them with a simple small zip tie longitudinally on the connector. One of mine is sporting that now.

On to your original issue, I would not just throw parts at it replacing things (appears you have not). I see a lot of people take that approach instead of diagnosing, and I really suspect given the nature and basic simplicity of the systems components, what they really needed to do was clean the parts, flush the oiling system, and start using good oil changed appropriately to usage/climate/etc.

I've studied this issue in depth and it seems removing the filters and solenoids, cleaning them, and using quality oil with an appropriate OCI will make them last the life of the car easily. I was actually just going in there to check them out since I was in the area and wanted to disassemble it to visualize the parts as well as the design of the system, not because I had a code to run down.

I found (car at @225k then) them working great and very clean. This is one reason I use either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum in my vehicles - keeps stuff really clean and prevents annoying and/or expensive headaches over time.

If you suspect one of the solenoids is bad, just set it on a bench and apply 12v from a battery across its terminals. There is some excellent technical sleuthing in a thread here someplace at clublexus with the FSM proceedures. I can't find the thread this minute and unfortunately not bookmarked on this computer. It's a massive 50 page or so thread and about 1/2 way through a helpful member laid out all the FSM procedures on the system.
Old 02-09-15, 12:36 AM
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cghelton
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Yep Oro I don't like just throwing new parts at them. That gets expensive and doesn't accomplish alot in fixing the matter at hand.

I did manage to break the top of the plastic connector. I just zip tied it and all is good. Can't believe that part would cause all the problems it does when it decides to go bad.

I did finally get it changed out and it's running like new again. My daughters a happy camper again.


Thanks guys for all the help..I appreciate it and so does my youngin.
Old 02-09-15, 04:42 PM
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gotta love those zip ties.
Old 02-16-15, 03:33 AM
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cghelton
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LOL..Yep. Those come in handy..I have hundreds of those in all different sizes and colors..HAHA


Thanks again guys.

May not be on for a little while..My daughter wrecked it over the weekend..Shes fine and all. Not worried about the car. As long as shes alright. The front end,hood,windshield needs fixed and we only had liability. But cant do nothing in this frigid weather.
Old 02-16-15, 10:12 AM
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Ouch sorry to hear about the accident.

Is it still salvageable? Post up some pics.
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