Oro

Well, first I'd point out it's certainly NOT a wive's tale. And there is plenty of proof - emperical proof is right there - it picks up deposits that oil can't.You can watch it work. ATF has a different additive package than oil and works differently. It is not designed to work in a combustion cycle so it is not a good idea to run it continuously. When you measure it's weight in cST (centistokes) it is basically a 10 wt oil. So it is like adding some 10wt oil to your case.

If you are running synthetic it will indeed do the job as PFB said, just more slowly. I did it with this vehicle to get a little head start before switching to a full synthetic. Some engines can benefit, some don't need it. Once I've had more synthetic miles on the motor, I wouldn't do it.

As to sludge - it is generally caused by a) lots of short trips not getting oil up to full temp long enough (generally considered about 20 miles), and b) not changing oil as recommended. The acidity of the oil increases, and particulate drop out of suspension and settle in the engine in various places. The early versions of the 1MZ-FE were prone to sludge if the above two things happened and particularly if the PCV valve clogged. late 2001 and up models have a revised pcv system to address this, but if you take care of the car you don't have to worry about it. It sounds like you do.

jimmy14

I had the same exact problem like ELGA , changed the OCV in bank 2 which fixed the codes P0300, P0302, p0304, p0306 p1354 put i still have a RED CAT and Code p1155... Please help so i don't go buy oxygen sensor in vain... Thanks

acarapella

Just want to chime in about Atf. I have a 1950 Chevy with a 235 cid (3.9l) straight six. We use diesel fuel in the crank case of antique cars to do the same thing. 3 quarts oil 2 quarts deisel and run til warm, or all deisel and just crank it over by hand and don't run it.

Of course I am NOT recommending this in a modern motor, but the atf version sounds right