How to get water pump out on 2002 ES300
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
How to get water pump out on 2002 ES300
This coming weekend I am changing the timing belt on a 2002 ES300.
I have done a very similar change once before on a 1998 Acura SLX, so I'm reasonably confident. One question is unclear after reading some other threads and a "how to" on another web site. What is the easiest way to get the water pump out? One said to take the left camshaft out, another sight said to use a stud extractor on the long pump studs. However, that was the same motor in an RX300, so the space/clearances may be different.
Any other tips or BTDT greatly appreciated.
I have done a very similar change once before on a 1998 Acura SLX, so I'm reasonably confident. One question is unclear after reading some other threads and a "how to" on another web site. What is the easiest way to get the water pump out? One said to take the left camshaft out, another sight said to use a stud extractor on the long pump studs. However, that was the same motor in an RX300, so the space/clearances may be different.
Any other tips or BTDT greatly appreciated.
#3
Lexus Champion
Those studs will be difficult to get off. When I was doing the job on my ES330, the double nut method didn't work. I ended up removing the front cam sprocket and the 6 bolts holding timing cover # 3 on and rotating it about the rear cam shaft to allow the water pump to pull away from the engine. I didn't have any issues with the water-pump clearing the inner fender, seems like that's only on the RX.
I also recently did a timing belt / water pump job on my 1MZ-FE Solara. Since I was doing cam-seals, I had to take off timing cover # 3 anyways, and the water-pump cleared the inner fender.
Skip over to 7:08 in my video to watch the water pump removal:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=_c_a-ECaWSU
There's a good writeup in this thread for reference:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ls-part-i.html
I also recently did a timing belt / water pump job on my 1MZ-FE Solara. Since I was doing cam-seals, I had to take off timing cover # 3 anyways, and the water-pump cleared the inner fender.
Skip over to 7:08 in my video to watch the water pump removal:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=_c_a-ECaWSU
There's a good writeup in this thread for reference:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ls-part-i.html
#4
Pole Position
Thread Starter
OK, thanks for the insight, that clears thins up a bit.
I'll try soaking the studs w/Kroil, some heat, then the double-nut removal. I don't have a stud extractor and it's a pricey one-time tool. If that fails I'll take the cam out. Good to have the proceedure in mind before starting so I don't get tripped up and go seek help mid-job, really want it all done in one day. Thanks again.
I'll try soaking the studs w/Kroil, some heat, then the double-nut removal. I don't have a stud extractor and it's a pricey one-time tool. If that fails I'll take the cam out. Good to have the proceedure in mind before starting so I don't get tripped up and go seek help mid-job, really want it all done in one day. Thanks again.
#5
Lexus Champion
What method are you using to remove the crank shaft and cam shaft bolts? Any plans to do the cam/crank seals? Those are the two things that will take you the most time especially if your not prepared.
#6
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I have access to a cam locker if needed for them. For the crank, I will wrap and reverse the old serp. belt on the crank and secure to a frame fitting. I have removed crank bolts before with that technique and it works admirably.
I don't plan to replace the seals unless leaking - I do have them in case I need to.
I don't plan to replace the seals unless leaking - I do have them in case I need to.
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