bloodyj410

ive found a new way to mimic the same misfire i get when pulling off from a stop or roll which is a choky feeling , if i try hard enough to accelerate slowly from a stop it sometimes doesnt skip but even when trying slowly it may slight misfire between 1/2 thousand rpms but thats how i try to pull off slowly then gradually faster to get the smooth feel i always had before...

ANY WAYS I CAN MIMIC THAT SAME CHOKYNESS BY SIMPLY SWITCHING FROM PARK TO DRIVE LETTING OF THE BRAKE AND TURNING THE WHEEL HOLDING IT IN TURNT POSITION ITS RUNNING RUNNING THEN U CAN FEEL IT MISFIRE ItS THE SAME FEELING WHEN PULLING OFF FROM S TOP OR ROLL and it skips AND I KNOW THATS THE PROBLEM I JUST DONT KNOW WHAT IT IS OR WHY MY CEL ISNT SHOWING MISFIRE


bought the car with 174k with cel on for bank 1 sensor 1 o2 sensor (guy said the cat was bad he only put in regular and thts why and since he found out he put premium only) anyways i wouldnt have bought the car if it didnt drive well i drove it up to 179920 (about) without the problem that i am experiencing now..... if you can read my old threads its about throttle chokyness from a stop or roll .... somewhere in the 179900 thousand miles my dad put in gumout high mileage fuel injector cleaner for no reason just because he bought it and i never used it and wanted to argue with me, he poured it in on quarter tank and i put it like whatever money i had in gas always 93 ... two days later car got choky and than real choky changed the catlytic converter front exhaust pipe w flex pipe new spark plugs and wires AND 3 engine mounts because of a noise which i think is from my left suspension during hard acceleration but the point is the issue im getting is so annoying when trying to drive because i really care about performance and the engine being used to my foot , everything was perfect until my dad put the cleaner for no reason...............



also need to know if there are only three coils on my 98 opposed to six

PFB

If you drive in reverse, do you still have the problem?

bloodyj410

yes this is how i first used to mimic the problem to show some mechanics, i can only make the sound/ misfire on reverse giving it a slightly harder push while holding the brake

PFB

Since it does it in reverse as well, I'm not sure anymore, but it's worth while to remove the large snorkel hose in the back of the filter box ( there may be 2 of them, I can't remember) and look closely for any cracks. Bend them a bit so that any cracks become more obvious.

Such cracks are relatively common, and usually only open up when you accelerate, as acceleration causes the engine to torque to one side, thus opening the crack. This will cause un-metered air to enter and bypass the MAF sensor. A code will not be set, but engine drvebality will suffer.

The thing is, these cracks tend to open up only when you drive forward, but not in reverse, but ho knows. Check it anyways.

If you do find cracks, you can close them up TEMPORERALY with some duct tape untill you order new hoses.

Phil

ES300doc

You need to clean your idle air control valve out. It's probably sticking from carbon deposits. Lots of you tube videos out there on this. Remove the idle air control valve electro magnet and shoot carb cleaner down the idle air port while rotating the shaft back and forth till it's moving freely. Then reinstall the idle air control valve magnet and your hesitation should be gone.

bloodyj410

Dude thanks a lot .. Is it difficult to do I've done the throttle body like that , and changed the fuel filter my self , also just got the code for temp sensor p0125 before I changed the fuel filter so I think I need to replace that and clean that idle air control valve

ES300doc

It's super easy. Don't need to remove the throttle body. Just the intake hose off the front. Idle air control valve is right on the lower front of the throttle body. Mine had a stumble on take off and after bunch of diagnosis, that is what I found the problem to be. I'll see if I can locate that you tube video.

Note: A bad coolant temp sensor on these cars can make them run terrible.

ES300doc

Watch this diagnostic video, about half way thru it he gets to the freeing up the idle air control valve shaft.

bloodyj410

bloodyj410

My iacv is so
Clogged the screws stripped

PFB

It doesn't mean that it's clogged. Those screws are always a problem to remove.

Don't break anything.

Did you check for tears in the snorkel hoses as I suggested?

bloodyj410

Yeah , the hoses seem to be fine ... Reason why I said it's clogged cause there was crude oil even in the plug when I disconnected it itall went in to the iacv during throttle body cleaning. But the bolts were so dirty and wet man the car drove so beautiful this issue is really getting to my bones I have to pay 100 for diagnose tomorrow and I hope they find the issue ... The problem is. Spitting. Rpms during acceleration from stop or rolling so annoying , I checked the three coils by unplugging them one by one To see if one had no change by being unplugged they all caused the car to die each time meaning they do work ( maybe their weak under load??)

synrgy350

You seem to have a check engine light on, have you scanned it? What code do you get? If this started right after you put in fuel injector cleaner, it could be clogged fuel injectors or a clogged fuel filter. You really need to read the codes and have the engine fuel trims scanned first before you go replacing more stuff.

-Lawrence

bloodyj410

Should I sea foam the engine ? Codes are po125 o2 sensor and po135 coolant temp

ES300doc

Either or both of these parts being failed will cause problems. As I mentioned previously, a bad coolant temp sensor will make them run really bad. I would fix that first, then clear the codes and see if the o2 sensor code comes back. As for the o2 sensor. If it's bad, it's going to throw the fuel trims out of wack.

Both these parts are common failures on Lexus and Toyota.