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Maintenance on older Lexus in good condition

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Old 01-16-14, 09:18 AM
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gfaile
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Smile Maintenance on older Lexus in good condition

I have a Lexus ES300 2001, which I bought new in July 2001. It has 68800 miles on it and is in excellent shape. It looks really good when I clean it up. I have changed the oil and filter every 3000 miles. I have never changed the transmission fluid, any belts, or hoses. I asked the local dealer what I should do to the car at this time to keep from having trouble on the road. He suggested replacing; timing belt, serpentine belt, thermostat, water pump and maybe the transmission fluid, all at a cost of about $1300. Are there any suggestion on doing this preventive maintenance? Is there something I shouldn't do on the list, and should I add something to the list. My wife drives the car and I want to minimize her having a breakdown on the road. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Old 01-16-14, 10:19 AM
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hypervish
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Welcome to Club Lexus!

You should definitely get that service done, the TB should be changed every 7 years/90k miles.

You however don't have to get it done at the Lexus dealer, you can get it done for cheaper at a Toyota dealership or at an independent shop.
Old 01-16-14, 10:21 AM
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rlx101
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I'd skip the suggested services. t belt is rated to 90000miles, do the full service then. In the mean time just continue with the regular oil/filter changes. Looks like the car is well cared for, just enjoy it! These some of the best cars on the road.

p.s. one thing you can do is ask them to inspect all of the the rubber hoses under the hood, they might crack overtime and leak. They are cheap to replace and a headache if leak at inappropriate time.
Old 01-16-14, 06:03 PM
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brucelee1
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I would do it all.

If fact, I have done it all and never regretted it.
Old 01-16-14, 07:04 PM
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BDSL
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3000 miles oil change is over kills. Stick with the maintenance schedule....
Old 01-16-14, 07:58 PM
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hypervish
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Originally Posted by BDSL
3000 miles oil change is over kills. Stick with the maintenance schedule....
Not really, 3k miles on conventional oil in a 1MZ-FE pre- midyear 2002 is an ideal OCI.
Old 01-17-14, 05:41 AM
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BDSL
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I believe on my dad's 2006 ES330 calls for 5000 miles for oil change on conventional oil.
On my 1997 ES300, it calls for 4000 miles for oil change on conventional oil.
Old 01-17-14, 06:15 AM
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hypervish
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Originally Posted by BDSL
I believe on my dad's 2006 ES330 calls for 5000 miles for oil change on conventional oil.
On my 1997 ES300, it calls for 4000 miles for oil change on conventional oil.
Yeah, and look at how many claims there are of sludge even when following the service manual on the ES300. Not the ES330 that has updated larger oil return holes.

And with the low miles he has, he may be taking many short trips which will beat up the oil even more.
Old 01-17-14, 10:39 AM
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BDSL
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Well, let me tell you. I have been doing 4000 miles oil change on conventional oil or 8000 miles on synthetic oil. My car has almost 290k miles on it with no sludge issue. I also have other vehicles with similar mileage.

I think the sludge problem is not caused by the 4000 miles oil change. It is from a combination of:
- owners not checking the oil level
- owners not using the right weight of oil
- owners not changing the oil as per the correct schedule
- owners not checking the PCV, without proper warm up, etc
Old 01-21-14, 05:42 PM
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gfaile
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Thanks to all who shared their opinion on my question. I appreciate your input.
Old 01-21-14, 07:24 PM
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Bdub215
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Originally Posted by BDSL
3000 miles oil change is over kills. Stick with the maintenance schedule....
Motors have sludge issues.... Far far from over kill

Originally Posted by hypervish
Not really, 3k miles on conventional oil in a 1MZ-FE pre- midyear 2002 is an ideal OCI.
^this

Originally Posted by hypervish
Yeah, and look at how many claims there are of sludge even when following the service manual on the ES300. Not the ES330 that has updated larger oil return holes.

And with the low miles he has, he may be taking many short trips which will beat up the oil even more.
Factory OCI should be ignored. The VVT-i 1MZ generates way to much engine compartment heat and on a longer OCI has a very high potential to develop sludge. i've recorded IAT's in my 01 Avalon around 170 degrees at various times. Then you figure the Temperature of the Cats where one is in front of the motor and the other is Underneath it. This motor takes a beating just in design let alone what the owners subject it to.
Old 01-22-14, 06:20 AM
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BDSL
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Air intake temperature can't be 170degF.....
Ambient air temperature is like 80degF.....

The thermostat is set at 170-180degF. Therefore, if your cooling system is working probably, the coolant (and the engine block) should be around that temperature during normal operation. Therefore, your oil (and most components) temperature should be around the same temperature. Of course, exhaust component is hotter but oil doesn't go there.....
Old 01-22-14, 08:47 AM
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Bdub215
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Originally Posted by BDSL
Air intake temperature can't be 170degF..... Ambient air temperature is like 80degF..... The thermostat is set at 170-180degF. Therefore, if your cooling system is working probably, the coolant (and the engine block) should be around that temperature during normal operation. Therefore, your oil (and most components) temperature should be around the same temperature. Of course, exhaust component is hotter but oil doesn't go there.....
Heat soak is bad on this motor. Aluminum heat soaks VERY EASILY. But what do I know?

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Old 01-22-14, 09:00 AM
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BDSL
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Originally Posted by Bdub215
Heat soak is bad on this motor. Aluminum heat soaks VERY EASILY. But what do I know?

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You were probably measuring the temperature of the throttle body (which has 170degF coolant running through it), and not the intake air temperature.
Old 01-22-14, 09:19 AM
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hypervish
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Originally Posted by Bdub215
Heat soak is bad on this motor. Aluminum heat soaks VERY EASILY. But what do I know?

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Sometimes you just have to ignore the ignorant.

Ignorance is bliss to them it seems.


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