Passenger Side Door Lock Assembly DIY
10-16-13, 02:31 PM
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Passenger Side Door Lock Assembly DIY
Decided it was my turn to contribute back to this community that has provided me with tons of helpful information over the past year.
Recently my passenger side door lock stopped working. You could manually lock and unlock the door however, it grew to be extremely annoying when driving others around as they would have to remember to lock their doors otherwise the remote would not allow you to lock the doors until the passenger door was manually locked. This also caused the alarm to not activate thus began to concern me enough that I wanted to replace the door lock assembly asap.
I called around to see exactly how much this job would cost and was finding it would generally take 1.5-2 labor hours and depending where you went as high as 300+ for parts. Decided that was way too expensive just for a door so I decided to look around salvage/parts yards to see if I could pick a second hand one up cheap, however they were asking for generally 150$ for the door lock assembly on 4ES cars that had over 100k miles on them... Here’s what I found, Aftermarket door lock assembly goes for around $180 (shipping included), Toyota will sell you one for around $250, and Lexus is asking for $320. I wound up going with a Toyota one as my friend fortunately works in the parts department and got a huge discount. Hopefully this information helps someone.
Tools needed:
10mm socket and ratchet with a 3-inch extension
T30 Torx wrench
Small flathead screw driver
Philips screw driver (medium size)
Front door lock assembly (part number: 69030 - 33261)
Step 1: Remove the inside of the door
You’ll need to remove this plastic piece from the inside of the door handle and the frame bracket for the passenger side mirror which are both held in with clips and easily can be removed by using the flat head screw driver lightly to push one side up. When you remove the plastic piece from the inside door handle, you’ll expose one of the two Philips screws holding the door in place.
Next you’ll need to remove the door lock/window control panel, which is also held in with clips. Disconnect the connector and place the lock/window control somewhere close. This will reveal the second Philips screw holding the door in place and once removed the door will only be held by the (9) plastic clips along the outline of the door. Do not completely remove door yet as there are wires connecting the tweeters, cables to the lock/door handle, and wires to the courtesy lights that need to be disconnected before completely removing the door.
Step 2: Remove metal bracket
Held in place with four 10mm bolts.
Step 3: Remove plastic service hole cover
You'll need to disconnect the wire harness connector to the door lock assembly. I only removed it about ¾ of the way as it allowed as much access as needed.
Step 4: Remove speaker
Held in place with three 10mm bolts. There is also a small lip on the bracket right behind the wire connector; so once bolts are out, lightly pull down and out.
Step 5: Reinstall lock/window control
You want to roll the window down (or up) until the two bolts holding the window to the regulator assembly are revealed. One will be in the speaker hole and the other will be in the service hole. Once you do this disconnect the lock/window control again.
Step 6: Remove glass
Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the glass to the regulator assembly. Then carefully pull the bracket on the glass towards you while pushing the metal regulator assembly away from you and lifting the glass. You’ll need to do this one side at a time, starting with the right side then the left. Once free of the regulator assembly lift and tilt inwards towards inside of car and place carefully somewhere safe.
Step 7: Remove window regulator assembly
There are six 10mm bolts and the black wire connector above the speaker hole holding the regulator assembly in place. Remove the bolts from right to left with the last bolt being the one closest to the speaker hole as you can have one hand on the window regulator assembly and the other loosening the bolt. You will want to ensure the regulator assembly doesn’t fall as it can easily be damaged.
Step 8: Remove the 10mm bolt holding the right side window railing
Once the bolt is removed the rail will not fall out of place but this allows you to push it outward when removing the door lock assembly in the next step.
Step 9: Remove door lock assembly
Remove three T30 torx screws and the metal cable from outside door handle. When the screws are out pull downward gently to remove the metal cable connecting it to the outside door handle. Push window rail away from you and pull the door lock assembly towards you and it’ll be able to slip passed.
Step 10: Replacing door lock assembly
With the old assembly removed, you’ll need to disconnect the cables from the old assembly to the new one. A little hard to explain but the yellow cable goes into the silver clip/brace and the black cable goes into a little plastic housing on the bottom of the door lock assembly (see pictures). When you disassemble this it'll be clear as to how it should go on the new one as each cable only fits in one spot.
****I apologize that my camera died at this point so I only took pictures with my ipod which aren't the clearest.
You stick a small flathead screw driver into the lower left hole and pull towards yourself.
Step 11: Reinstall door lock assembly
You'll want to push the window railing outward again and slide the door lock assembly into its original location while being aware you'll need to reconnect the outside door cable. Don't worry as its easy to do as the cable is vertical and theres only one hole it can go into (see picture).
Step 12: Reassemble
Basically the reverse of the steps. You'll want to be aware of some things however, such as when reinstalling the glass be sure you have the glass in between the weather strips (see pictures). You can easily do this by inserting the glass with the end closest to the mirror slightly angled downward and slid in between the weather strip. Another thing to be aware of is to make sure the courtesy light wire is behind the door trim when reinstalling as its a rather long wire and was stick out of the bottom of mine when I pushed the clips back in. Lastly make sure you pull the wire harness for the lock/window control back through the trim before pushing the clips in.
Hopefully this will help someone! Also feel free to ask questions of let me know if I should add something else in that might be helpful.
Recently my passenger side door lock stopped working. You could manually lock and unlock the door however, it grew to be extremely annoying when driving others around as they would have to remember to lock their doors otherwise the remote would not allow you to lock the doors until the passenger door was manually locked. This also caused the alarm to not activate thus began to concern me enough that I wanted to replace the door lock assembly asap.
I called around to see exactly how much this job would cost and was finding it would generally take 1.5-2 labor hours and depending where you went as high as 300+ for parts. Decided that was way too expensive just for a door so I decided to look around salvage/parts yards to see if I could pick a second hand one up cheap, however they were asking for generally 150$ for the door lock assembly on 4ES cars that had over 100k miles on them... Here’s what I found, Aftermarket door lock assembly goes for around $180 (shipping included), Toyota will sell you one for around $250, and Lexus is asking for $320. I wound up going with a Toyota one as my friend fortunately works in the parts department and got a huge discount. Hopefully this information helps someone.
Tools needed:
10mm socket and ratchet with a 3-inch extension
T30 Torx wrench
Small flathead screw driver
Philips screw driver (medium size)
Front door lock assembly (part number: 69030 - 33261)
Step 1: Remove the inside of the door
You’ll need to remove this plastic piece from the inside of the door handle and the frame bracket for the passenger side mirror which are both held in with clips and easily can be removed by using the flat head screw driver lightly to push one side up. When you remove the plastic piece from the inside door handle, you’ll expose one of the two Philips screws holding the door in place.
Next you’ll need to remove the door lock/window control panel, which is also held in with clips. Disconnect the connector and place the lock/window control somewhere close. This will reveal the second Philips screw holding the door in place and once removed the door will only be held by the (9) plastic clips along the outline of the door. Do not completely remove door yet as there are wires connecting the tweeters, cables to the lock/door handle, and wires to the courtesy lights that need to be disconnected before completely removing the door.
Step 2: Remove metal bracket
Held in place with four 10mm bolts.
Step 3: Remove plastic service hole cover
You'll need to disconnect the wire harness connector to the door lock assembly. I only removed it about ¾ of the way as it allowed as much access as needed.
Step 4: Remove speaker
Held in place with three 10mm bolts. There is also a small lip on the bracket right behind the wire connector; so once bolts are out, lightly pull down and out.
Step 5: Reinstall lock/window control
You want to roll the window down (or up) until the two bolts holding the window to the regulator assembly are revealed. One will be in the speaker hole and the other will be in the service hole. Once you do this disconnect the lock/window control again.
Step 6: Remove glass
Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the glass to the regulator assembly. Then carefully pull the bracket on the glass towards you while pushing the metal regulator assembly away from you and lifting the glass. You’ll need to do this one side at a time, starting with the right side then the left. Once free of the regulator assembly lift and tilt inwards towards inside of car and place carefully somewhere safe.
Step 7: Remove window regulator assembly
There are six 10mm bolts and the black wire connector above the speaker hole holding the regulator assembly in place. Remove the bolts from right to left with the last bolt being the one closest to the speaker hole as you can have one hand on the window regulator assembly and the other loosening the bolt. You will want to ensure the regulator assembly doesn’t fall as it can easily be damaged.
Step 8: Remove the 10mm bolt holding the right side window railing
Once the bolt is removed the rail will not fall out of place but this allows you to push it outward when removing the door lock assembly in the next step.
Step 9: Remove door lock assembly
Remove three T30 torx screws and the metal cable from outside door handle. When the screws are out pull downward gently to remove the metal cable connecting it to the outside door handle. Push window rail away from you and pull the door lock assembly towards you and it’ll be able to slip passed.
Step 10: Replacing door lock assembly
With the old assembly removed, you’ll need to disconnect the cables from the old assembly to the new one. A little hard to explain but the yellow cable goes into the silver clip/brace and the black cable goes into a little plastic housing on the bottom of the door lock assembly (see pictures). When you disassemble this it'll be clear as to how it should go on the new one as each cable only fits in one spot.
****I apologize that my camera died at this point so I only took pictures with my ipod which aren't the clearest.
You stick a small flathead screw driver into the lower left hole and pull towards yourself.
Step 11: Reinstall door lock assembly
You'll want to push the window railing outward again and slide the door lock assembly into its original location while being aware you'll need to reconnect the outside door cable. Don't worry as its easy to do as the cable is vertical and theres only one hole it can go into (see picture).
Step 12: Reassemble
Basically the reverse of the steps. You'll want to be aware of some things however, such as when reinstalling the glass be sure you have the glass in between the weather strips (see pictures). You can easily do this by inserting the glass with the end closest to the mirror slightly angled downward and slid in between the weather strip. Another thing to be aware of is to make sure the courtesy light wire is behind the door trim when reinstalling as its a rather long wire and was stick out of the bottom of mine when I pushed the clips back in. Lastly make sure you pull the wire harness for the lock/window control back through the trim before pushing the clips in.
Hopefully this will help someone! Also feel free to ask questions of let me know if I should add something else in that might be helpful.
Last edited by PuReChaos; 10-16-13 at 02:34 PM.
10-16-13, 05:15 PM
#3
Nice write up!
I did a similar project to my 1997 3es when my only side-winder car key started to wear
out, almost making it impossible to start up the car ($300+ repair at the dealership).
Instead, I ended up going to the junkyard and pulling out a toyota camry key, ignition and door lock cylinders
from a 98 camry and converting the whole car from the side-winder key setup to a traditional
car key setup for less than $20 dollars. This modification also enabled me to make multiple copies of my key for less than $3 dollars rather than paying over $60 to get a side-winder key cut.
If you're knowledgeable enough about locking mechanisms, you can also purchase different
tumblers to "custom" make your own lock and key.
Later on, I modified the tumblers in my lock cylinders on the 3es to accept my Jeep Cherokee car keys
I did a similar project to my 1997 3es when my only side-winder car key started to wear
out, almost making it impossible to start up the car ($300+ repair at the dealership).
Instead, I ended up going to the junkyard and pulling out a toyota camry key, ignition and door lock cylinders
from a 98 camry and converting the whole car from the side-winder key setup to a traditional
car key setup for less than $20 dollars. This modification also enabled me to make multiple copies of my key for less than $3 dollars rather than paying over $60 to get a side-winder key cut.
If you're knowledgeable enough about locking mechanisms, you can also purchase different
tumblers to "custom" make your own lock and key.
Later on, I modified the tumblers in my lock cylinders on the 3es to accept my Jeep Cherokee car keys
Last edited by msekanha; 10-16-13 at 05:19 PM.
11-17-13, 03:03 PM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: WA
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Door lock assembly or just a cable
Nice description of the removal and the pictures really help. My problem is the outside handle (passenger side) will not unlatch the door. The key and remote fob unlock the door, but raising the outside handle does nothing. I must pull on the inside handle to get the door to unlatch and swing open. Is this maybe just a broken cable or will I need to replace the door lock assembly? Where can I get the cable I need if it just the cable and where can one purchase a new door lock assembly?
Thanks. This is my first day in the Lexus Club.
Thanks. This is my first day in the Lexus Club.
11-17-13, 03:48 PM
#5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Nice description of the removal and the pictures really help. My problem is the outside handle (passenger side) will not unlatch the door. The key and remote fob unlock the door, but raising the outside handle does nothing. I must pull on the inside handle to get the door to unlatch and swing open. Is this maybe just a broken cable or will I need to replace the door lock assembly? Where can I get the cable I need if it just the cable and where can one purchase a new door lock assembly?
Thanks. This is my first day in the Lexus Club.
Thanks. This is my first day in the Lexus Club.
From your description, there is definitely no need to go buy a door lock assembly, if the key fob or the master switch (driver side) will unlock the door the door lock assembly is fine. If I were to guess what could possibly be happening in your case is that either the metal rod (which connects to the door lock assembly) became unclipped either by slipping out or possibly the piece that holds them to the door lock assembly possibly broke. It isn't either of the two cables shown in the 6th picture from the top as one of them enables the inside door handle and the other controls the lock function. Unfortunately the only way I can think to test this would be to remove the door trim and the plastic weather shield and just reach your hand towards the door lock assembly and see if there is a free hanging metal rod.
11-18-13, 12:42 PM
#6
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: WA
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Thank you. Club Lexus looks like a great resource. I will do as you suggest. Hopefully I will not have to remove the window and all the other items to reconnect any hanging rod. I will probably work on it this coming weekend.
Update Saturday evening. The instructions above worked perfectly for removing the door panel and accessing the exterior door latch. The arm connecting the exterior handle to the door lock assembly had unattached from the handle, but still connected to the lock assembly. The metal rod has a 90 degree bend at the top with a nylon fitting around it designed to be pushed through a hole in the handle arm. The area where the connection goes is tight. I searched for an easy way to remove the handle - did not see one. I was able to push the end of the rod into the hole with my fingers, then with a long screwdriver positioned behind the nylon portion I applied pressure and the tapered nylon squeezed through the hold and stayed!! See the top picture for the back of the exterior door handle and the white nylon. Should have take a picture before connecting. Open and closed the door several times locking and unlocking it, all worked fine.
The inside leather panel on the 1999 has the tweeter above the panel at the outside mirror. I was able to remove the panel without removing the tweeter housing by lifting the panel high at the latch end. But I had to remove the tweeter housing to reinstall the panel. Power 6 on 1-31-13 posted the following for removing the tweeter housing: "They are easy to remove, open the door, grab the little plastic cover and yank it slightly up and away, it snaps right out." Right on!! With the housing removed the panel slid into place at the window and a couple of bumps to the edges of the panel the plastic clips went into their holes in the metal panel. A few screws and electrical clips and I was complete. This took about an hour from start to finish. It was my first time to pull a door panel on a Lexus. Thanks for the detailed instructions above.
The other two pictures show the inside of the door - similar but not exactly the same as the 2003 ES.
Update Saturday evening. The instructions above worked perfectly for removing the door panel and accessing the exterior door latch. The arm connecting the exterior handle to the door lock assembly had unattached from the handle, but still connected to the lock assembly. The metal rod has a 90 degree bend at the top with a nylon fitting around it designed to be pushed through a hole in the handle arm. The area where the connection goes is tight. I searched for an easy way to remove the handle - did not see one. I was able to push the end of the rod into the hole with my fingers, then with a long screwdriver positioned behind the nylon portion I applied pressure and the tapered nylon squeezed through the hold and stayed!! See the top picture for the back of the exterior door handle and the white nylon. Should have take a picture before connecting. Open and closed the door several times locking and unlocking it, all worked fine.
The inside leather panel on the 1999 has the tweeter above the panel at the outside mirror. I was able to remove the panel without removing the tweeter housing by lifting the panel high at the latch end. But I had to remove the tweeter housing to reinstall the panel. Power 6 on 1-31-13 posted the following for removing the tweeter housing: "They are easy to remove, open the door, grab the little plastic cover and yank it slightly up and away, it snaps right out." Right on!! With the housing removed the panel slid into place at the window and a couple of bumps to the edges of the panel the plastic clips went into their holes in the metal panel. A few screws and electrical clips and I was complete. This took about an hour from start to finish. It was my first time to pull a door panel on a Lexus. Thanks for the detailed instructions above.
The other two pictures show the inside of the door - similar but not exactly the same as the 2003 ES.
Last edited by buckjeep; 11-23-13 at 05:20 PM. Reason: Update the information with what happened.
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