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oil light on after timing belt change

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Old 10-14-13, 01:22 PM   #1
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Default oil light on after timing belt change

Hello, long time lurker but new for posting to the forum.
I just did a timing belt and water pump change on my 01 es300 with 233, 000 miles. After the belt and water pump change, I took it for a test run (about 8 miles). About 3/4 of the way, the oil light comes on and is on steady. I continued my way back home and just before I got to my driveway, the car stalls out with the a/c on. I turned off the a/c, restarted it with no problems and pulled up to my garage. Did not stall after and motor still runs smooth that but starting to hear a slight knock and oil light is still steady burning. Popped the hood, took the top timing cover off, cranked the crank shaft pulley til all the timing marks line up. Everything still lines up. Could the oil pump somehow given out from reinstalling the harmonic balancer too tight?
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Old 10-14-13, 02:04 PM   #2
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There are two oil lights. One for low oil pressure, and one for low oil level. Which one is on?

Did you check your oil level?

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Old 10-15-13, 07:46 PM   #3
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I didnt know there were 2 oil lights. Its the same one that lights up when oil is low. The oil is full though.

I just find it strange how I have had no problems at all until after I changed the timing belt and water pump. Ran smooth after that, during road test up until the end of the test.

When I got home today I popped the hood unscrewed the oil filter and was bone dry. Had a little drop left but thats not a good sign. I put the filter back in but left a gap to see of any oil comes out while i crank it. I only turned over the motor a few times then stopped. Only very little oil came out. Done with that. Thought perhaps the timing could be off which may affect the oil pump? I hand cranked the crank shaft to line up the timing marks then about half way it came to a dead stop. Wont budge after that. BIG problem coming my way with this now! I still have an oil pump being shipped along with an oil pan gasket. Gonna drain the oil and drop the pan tomorrow then check the screen on the pickup tube for sludge before i go further. The crankshaft stopping dead like that worries the hell out of me. I can back out of it going counter clockwise but going back clockwise will do the same thing.

I'm leaning toward a serious issue but hope I can get this worked out. Had issues with the transmission earlier this year but got lucky with that after changing the fluid several times and constantly cleaning the solenoids.
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Old 10-16-13, 07:40 AM   #4
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If indeed it's your low oil level light that's on, than I'm confused as to why you're trying to deal with a low oil pressure issue. Those are two different things.

By the way, you should never try and turn the engine backwords.


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Old 10-16-13, 07:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PFB View Post
If indeed it's your low oil level light that's on, than I'm confused as to why you're trying to deal with a low oil pressure issue. Those are two different things.

By the way, you should never try and turn the engine backwords.


Phil
Ok theres a red oil light and an orange or yellow if you will oil can with a wavy line under it. I have never seen that wavy oil light on before even when the oil is low. The red one comes on when the oil is low and came on this time as well.

Aside from all that, I dropped the oil pan, have some sludge inside and quite a bit on the pick up tube screen. Only part of the screen that was exposed was about the size of a framing nail. I dont know if that caused the problem or of the pump really is shot....or worse, my engine is shot. Looks very dry up inside from the pan area the one of the cylinders.
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Old 10-16-13, 07:11 PM   #6
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hmmm... pictures?
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Old 10-16-13, 07:52 PM   #7
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From your description of what you saw when you removed your oil pan, it appears that your engine is totally sludged.

Remove the front valve cover gasket and look for sludge. That's an easy 30 min job. Don't do anything else until you do that.

Pictures would help.

Phil

Last edited by PFB; 10-16-13 at 08:12 PM..
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Old 10-16-13, 09:28 PM   #8
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This is what I found...



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Old 10-16-13, 09:32 PM   #9
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I'll try to get to the valve covers tomorrow if it doesnt rain on me. I'll post pics of that as well.
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Old 10-17-13, 07:15 AM   #10
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I hate to tell you the obvious, but it looks like the sludge has done your engine in. Most of your oil passages are probably severly blocked, preventing the oil from circulating. Your oil pump itself is probably fine.

Removing the front valve cover gasket will confirm the extent of sludge damage, and should help you decide what your next step should be.

Where you changing oil regularly? Which oil and grade were you using? How long have you owned the car?

Please post pictures and keep us posted.

Hope things work out.

Phil

Last edited by PFB; 10-17-13 at 07:23 AM..
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Old 10-17-13, 06:35 PM   #11
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Didnt get around to mess with the car today because of rain so will attempt it tomorrow evening and all weekend. More pics will follow that as well.

Really gets me because the car has been running great until this past weekend after I did the timing belt / water pump. Took for a test drive then just before i pulled down my street, then came on the oil light. Was still running flawless up until that point. I'm thinking I may have knocked a chunk of that sludge loose when I was using an impact gun on the harmonic balancer. It then clogged the screen the rest of the way on top of what was already there. Just my guess.

I've had the car for almost 7 years. I'm the second owner. I have always used high mileage Castrol oil 10-30w. Always changed that oil no more than just over the 3,000 mile mark. A few times it has gone to 4 but never any more than that. Oil filter has also been changed on every change.
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Old 10-19-13, 10:04 PM   #12
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So off with the front valve cover and there is also sludge there.



To the far left looking down toward the oil pan.



Most of this sludge is dry and crystalized. Still going to try and save it but also shopping for a new car.
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Old 10-19-13, 10:23 PM   #13
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Cleaning up the sludge as much as possible and try and get this engine cranking all the way around again. So off with the upper intake so I can easily remove the rear valve cover.



Rear valve cover comes off tomorrow along with the rear plugs.

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Old 10-20-13, 07:19 AM   #14
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It looks like you know what you are doing, but if you need, there are several good videos on YouTube on this subject. Do a search and you'll see them.

Keep us posted on your progress. With pictures.

Oh ya, when you're done, go with Synthetic oil, and switch back to 5w30, and not the 10w30 that you've been using, and make sure that ALL of your oil passages are clear and clean.

You have your work cut out for you, but it's dooable.

Phil

Last edited by PFB; 10-20-13 at 08:24 AM..
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Old 10-20-13, 07:44 AM   #15
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Quote:
I've had the car for almost 7 years. I'm the second owner. I have always used high mileage Castrol oil 10-30w. Always changed that oil no more than just over the 3,000 mile mark. A few times it has gone to 4 but never any more than that. Oil filter has also been changed on every change.
<- This is me after seeing your pictures and reading the above quote.
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Old 10-20-13, 07:44 AM
 
 
 
 
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1998, 250, belt, cut, es300, lexus, light, oil, pressure, pump, replace, sign, timing, water, youtube

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