Steering Wheel jerking in both directions
08-09-13, 06:28 PM
#1
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Steering Wheel jerking in both directions
Hey guys so I have a 1998 Lexus ES300 that has 172k miles on it now.
So I have been dealing with a issue where randomly my steering wheel will jerk to the left or the right. It is usually random. Sometimes it might first jerl left then a second later jerk to the right even if i am holding it firmly. Seems like it happens more on curvy roads but it is random. Sometimes it will happen driving straight, sometimes while accelerating so no specific pattern.
I have jacked the car up and checked everything. Tires are not shaking, no play in tie rods , control arms etc. I did change the driver side control arm with a cheap aftermarket recently. Power steering pressure hose was changed a few thousand miles ago so fluid is at correct level and fresh.
I have also noticed sometimes when i am turning the steering wheel at low speeds even if I am not accelerating there is this clicking / slightly griding sound from the driver side.. Although my cv boot on that side has a slight rip the clicking is more of a grinding type of click and not the usual axle click.
Anyone know what could be going on? Anyone experiences something similar.
Just wanted to add that after changing the lower control arm on driver side my steering wheel is not centered anymore. It is slightly to the left.
Thanks
So I have been dealing with a issue where randomly my steering wheel will jerk to the left or the right. It is usually random. Sometimes it might first jerl left then a second later jerk to the right even if i am holding it firmly. Seems like it happens more on curvy roads but it is random. Sometimes it will happen driving straight, sometimes while accelerating so no specific pattern.
I have jacked the car up and checked everything. Tires are not shaking, no play in tie rods , control arms etc. I did change the driver side control arm with a cheap aftermarket recently. Power steering pressure hose was changed a few thousand miles ago so fluid is at correct level and fresh.
I have also noticed sometimes when i am turning the steering wheel at low speeds even if I am not accelerating there is this clicking / slightly griding sound from the driver side.. Although my cv boot on that side has a slight rip the clicking is more of a grinding type of click and not the usual axle click.
Anyone know what could be going on? Anyone experiences something similar.
Just wanted to add that after changing the lower control arm on driver side my steering wheel is not centered anymore. It is slightly to the left.
Thanks
08-09-13, 08:05 PM
#2
We experienced similar problems with our 94 ES last year. The problem turned out to be a worn out steering rack. Our 94 had about the same mileage on it when the problems started as your car has now.
My wife noticed the jerking feeling when she was making a right turn. She would turn the steering wheel but the turn would not be smooth. There would be a small amount of turn, and then the steering wheel would jerk. When I drove the car several times, I noticed poor steering response when making wide turns at highway speeds. The actual turn seemed that it didn't correlate with the steering wheel input.
We took the car in for a wheel alignment thinking that this might be the problem. The front end guy said that the steering rack needed replacement. We had this done (about $600, as I recall), and all the steering problems were gone. The bulk of this cost involved labor. This apparently is not an easy do it yourself job. We also needed an alignment after the new rack was installed.
My wife noticed the jerking feeling when she was making a right turn. She would turn the steering wheel but the turn would not be smooth. There would be a small amount of turn, and then the steering wheel would jerk. When I drove the car several times, I noticed poor steering response when making wide turns at highway speeds. The actual turn seemed that it didn't correlate with the steering wheel input.
We took the car in for a wheel alignment thinking that this might be the problem. The front end guy said that the steering rack needed replacement. We had this done (about $600, as I recall), and all the steering problems were gone. The bulk of this cost involved labor. This apparently is not an easy do it yourself job. We also needed an alignment after the new rack was installed.
08-09-13, 09:23 PM
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We experienced similar problems with our 94 ES last year. The problem turned out to be a worn out steering rack. Our 94 had about the same mileage on it when the problems started as your car has now.
My wife noticed the jerking feeling when she was making a right turn. She would turn the steering wheel but the turn would not be smooth. There would be a small amount of turn, and then the steering wheel would jerk. When I drove the car several times, I noticed poor steering response when making wide turns at highway speeds. The actual turn seemed that it didn't correlate with the steering wheel input.
We took the car in for a wheel alignment thinking that this might be the problem. The front end guy said that the steering rack needed replacement. We had this done (about $600, as I recall), and all the steering problems were gone. The bulk of this cost involved labor. This apparently is not an easy do it yourself job. We also needed an alignment after the new rack was installed.
My wife noticed the jerking feeling when she was making a right turn. She would turn the steering wheel but the turn would not be smooth. There would be a small amount of turn, and then the steering wheel would jerk. When I drove the car several times, I noticed poor steering response when making wide turns at highway speeds. The actual turn seemed that it didn't correlate with the steering wheel input.
We took the car in for a wheel alignment thinking that this might be the problem. The front end guy said that the steering rack needed replacement. We had this done (about $600, as I recall), and all the steering problems were gone. The bulk of this cost involved labor. This apparently is not an easy do it yourself job. We also needed an alignment after the new rack was installed.
I also heard these possibilities with bad steering rack bushings. Is there a chance that could cause the harsh jerking?
08-09-13, 09:43 PM
#4
Thanks for the reply. It would be bad if it is the steering rack as I am a poor college student lol. I have alot of tools and determination to do the job myself as I can pick up a rack on ebay for about 125
I also heard these possibilities with bad steering rack bushings. Is there a chance that could cause the harsh jerking?
I also heard these possibilities with bad steering rack bushings. Is there a chance that could cause the harsh jerking?
08-09-13, 11:54 PM
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Mr.Booby
I know its a tight fit but are you sure about the having to drop the engine cradle. If I dont have to do that then I can handle it otherwise...
Has anyone else that has repalced the rack confirm how hard it is to replace it or procedures. Or anyone have similar symptoms that didnt require replacing the rack but just replace the rack bushings? Thanks
I know its a tight fit but are you sure about the having to drop the engine cradle. If I dont have to do that then I can handle it otherwise...
Has anyone else that has repalced the rack confirm how hard it is to replace it or procedures. Or anyone have similar symptoms that didnt require replacing the rack but just replace the rack bushings? Thanks
08-10-13, 08:23 AM
#6
+1 Steering Rack but before that, raise the car and tug and pull on the wheels from the bottom, if loose it could be the control arm bushing. My driverside was so bad I had 1.8-2.5 negative camber so when I accelerated whil changing lanes to the right it would jolt because it would slide to the 2.5 negative camber. replaced control arm and cured.
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08-10-13, 10:06 PM
#8
I made this post not so long ago in the DIY tips section but here goes.
"Just something that has haunted me all my life as a Mechanic. It seems that almost every Lexus or Toyota that I have ever test drove, bought for myself or worked on for a friend has had plain off the shelf power steering fluid in the power steering reservoir when on the cap and in the manual it clearly said use Dextron II or III. And let me tell you I have had to replace so many rack and pinion assembly's because of that simple fact. So please use the correct fluid in the system."
When I worked in Thousand Oaks Ca. Averaging once a week I had to change a Toyota/Lexus R&P with anywhere from 40k to 200k on the odo. Have any of you who have had power steering problems had the correct fluid when they occurred? Personally I have never had to replace a R&P in any toyota I have ever owned.
P.S. It is not so bad to replace if you have an inner tie rod tool and take them off first.
"Just something that has haunted me all my life as a Mechanic. It seems that almost every Lexus or Toyota that I have ever test drove, bought for myself or worked on for a friend has had plain off the shelf power steering fluid in the power steering reservoir when on the cap and in the manual it clearly said use Dextron II or III. And let me tell you I have had to replace so many rack and pinion assembly's because of that simple fact. So please use the correct fluid in the system."
When I worked in Thousand Oaks Ca. Averaging once a week I had to change a Toyota/Lexus R&P with anywhere from 40k to 200k on the odo. Have any of you who have had power steering problems had the correct fluid when they occurred? Personally I have never had to replace a R&P in any toyota I have ever owned.
P.S. It is not so bad to replace if you have an inner tie rod tool and take them off first.
Last edited by Mythotical; 08-10-13 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Had to add the P.S.
08-10-13, 11:07 PM
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I made this post not so long ago in the DIY tips section but here goes.
"Just something that has haunted me all my life as a Mechanic. It seems that almost every Lexus or Toyota that I have ever test drove, bought for myself or worked on for a friend has had plain off the shelf power steering fluid in the power steering reservoir when on the cap and in the manual it clearly said use Dextron II or III. And let me tell you I have had to replace so many rack and pinion assembly's because of that simple fact. So please use the correct fluid in the system."
When I worked in Thousand Oaks Ca. Averaging once a week I had to change a Toyota/Lexus R&P with anywhere from 40k to 200k on the odo. Have any of you who have had power steering problems had the correct fluid when they occurred? Personally I have never had to replace a R&P in any toyota I have ever owned.
P.S. It is not so bad to replace if you have an inner tie rod tool and take them off first.
"Just something that has haunted me all my life as a Mechanic. It seems that almost every Lexus or Toyota that I have ever test drove, bought for myself or worked on for a friend has had plain off the shelf power steering fluid in the power steering reservoir when on the cap and in the manual it clearly said use Dextron II or III. And let me tell you I have had to replace so many rack and pinion assembly's because of that simple fact. So please use the correct fluid in the system."
When I worked in Thousand Oaks Ca. Averaging once a week I had to change a Toyota/Lexus R&P with anywhere from 40k to 200k on the odo. Have any of you who have had power steering problems had the correct fluid when they occurred? Personally I have never had to replace a R&P in any toyota I have ever owned.
P.S. It is not so bad to replace if you have an inner tie rod tool and take them off first.
08-11-13, 09:47 AM
#12
I made this post not so long ago in the DIY tips section but here goes.
"Just something that has haunted me all my life as a Mechanic. It seems that almost every Lexus or Toyota that I have ever test drove, bought for myself or worked on for a friend has had plain off the shelf power steering fluid in the power steering reservoir when on the cap and in the manual it clearly said use Dextron II or III. And let me tell you I have had to replace so many rack and pinion assembly's because of that simple fact. So please use the correct fluid in the system."
When I worked in Thousand Oaks Ca. Averaging once a week I had to change a Toyota/Lexus R&P with anywhere from 40k to 200k on the odo. Have any of you who have had power steering problems had the correct fluid when they occurred? Personally I have never had to replace a R&P in any toyota I have ever owned.
P.S. It is not so bad to replace if you have an inner tie rod tool and take them off first.
"Just something that has haunted me all my life as a Mechanic. It seems that almost every Lexus or Toyota that I have ever test drove, bought for myself or worked on for a friend has had plain off the shelf power steering fluid in the power steering reservoir when on the cap and in the manual it clearly said use Dextron II or III. And let me tell you I have had to replace so many rack and pinion assembly's because of that simple fact. So please use the correct fluid in the system."
When I worked in Thousand Oaks Ca. Averaging once a week I had to change a Toyota/Lexus R&P with anywhere from 40k to 200k on the odo. Have any of you who have had power steering problems had the correct fluid when they occurred? Personally I have never had to replace a R&P in any toyota I have ever owned.
P.S. It is not so bad to replace if you have an inner tie rod tool and take them off first.
08-11-13, 10:35 AM
#13
Mr.Booby
I know its a tight fit but are you sure about the having to drop the engine cradle. If I dont have to do that then I can handle it otherwise...
Has anyone else that has repalced the rack confirm how hard it is to replace it or procedures. Or anyone have similar symptoms that didnt require replacing the rack but just replace the rack bushings? Thanks
I know its a tight fit but are you sure about the having to drop the engine cradle. If I dont have to do that then I can handle it otherwise...
Has anyone else that has repalced the rack confirm how hard it is to replace it or procedures. Or anyone have similar symptoms that didnt require replacing the rack but just replace the rack bushings? Thanks
08-11-13, 02:40 PM
#14
Ok so the old saying goes "hard to diagnose over the phone/net". One needs a lot of input to correctly diagnose any problem. It could be anything in the front or rear suspension. Yes including ball joints. Also a lot of data needs to be observed during a test drive. I.E. when the problem occurs are you accelerating, slowing, turning, going straight, if when turning is it trying to pull the wheel back to center? I have even seen on one occasion a broken rear trailing arm cause the steering to pull left when accelerating and pull right when slowing. As for replacing the R&P a shop worth it's salt will only bill about 2.4 hours to replace it. The Mitchell manual also notes 2.4 hours so it should take the avarage DIY about 4-6 hours. A re-built unit will cost about $160 at your local NAPA and with that you will get a warranty not available on ebay. Most likely the power assist control valve is the problem but that is part of the R&P. I also keep a China made 17mm flare end wrench that I bent with a torch to 60deg on the end just for Toyota R&P. It makes the fittings really easy to get to also you should invest in a set of ball end socket extensions. I always pull both inner tie rods off first but you really only need to do the drivers side. As for the outer tie rods you can re use them if they are good however you should not use a fork type tie rod seperator as this will destroy the boots. Insted I just take the nut off of the tapered stud and apply force to the tie rod using a prybar under the tie rod and the end of the prybar over the control arm, then just smack the joint that the tapered stud goes through on the side, majically the stud pops out within three hits. the reason why I pull both inners is that when I do them I am not laying in my driveway I do them while standing under the car on a Rack. It just makes one less part to flop around and smack me in the junk 
. While you are there you should remove the return hose (the one with the corbin clamp) along the sub frame to drain all of the fluid before you remove the fittings. this helps to keep the crap out of the PS pump.
Happy wrenching!
. While you are there you should remove the return hose (the one with the corbin clamp) along the sub frame to drain all of the fluid before you remove the fittings. this helps to keep the crap out of the PS pump.Happy wrenching!
08-14-13, 08:37 PM
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Ok so the old saying goes "hard to diagnose over the phone/net". One needs a lot of input to correctly diagnose any problem. It could be anything in the front or rear suspension. Yes including ball joints. Also a lot of data needs to be observed during a test drive. I.E. when the problem occurs are you accelerating, slowing, turning, going straight, if when turning is it trying to pull the wheel back to center? I have even seen on one occasion a broken rear trailing arm cause the steering to pull left when accelerating and pull right when slowing. As for replacing the R&P a shop worth it's salt will only bill about 2.4 hours to replace it. The Mitchell manual also notes 2.4 hours so it should take the avarage DIY about 4-6 hours. A re-built unit will cost about $160 at your local NAPA and with that you will get a warranty not available on ebay. Most likely the power assist control valve is the problem but that is part of the R&P. I also keep a China made 17mm flare end wrench that I bent with a torch to 60deg on the end just for Toyota R&P. It makes the fittings really easy to get to also you should invest in a set of ball end socket extensions. I always pull both inner tie rods off first but you really only need to do the drivers side. As for the outer tie rods you can re use them if they are good however you should not use a fork type tie rod seperator as this will destroy the boots. Insted I just take the nut off of the tapered stud and apply force to the tie rod using a prybar under the tie rod and the end of the prybar over the control arm, then just smack the joint that the tapered stud goes through on the side, majically the stud pops out within three hits. the reason why I pull both inners is that when I do them I am not laying in my driveway I do them while standing under the car on a Rack. It just makes one less part to flop around and smack me in the junk . While you are there you should remove the return hose (the one with the corbin clamp) along the sub frame to drain all of the fluid before you remove the fittings. this helps to keep the crap out of the PS pump.
Happy wrenching!
. While you are there you should remove the return hose (the one with the corbin clamp) along the sub frame to drain all of the fluid before you remove the fittings. this helps to keep the crap out of the PS pump.Happy wrenching!
I really appreciate the replies. I am ready to replace the rack but I had a few more questions
If the power steering pump was failing, couldn't some of these same symptoms appear? How would you verify at your job if the rack is actually going bad?
Thanks