P0773 on 2001 ES300 - location of the solenoid?
08-03-13, 02:54 PM
#1
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P0773 on 2001 ES300 - location of the solenoid?
Greetings!
I had this check engine light ON many days now and today I have had it checked. The code is P0773, which means “Shift Solenoid "E" (Lock-Up Solenoid) Electrical Circuit Malfunction”. I hope the problem is only with the wiring or the coil.
I need your help to find out the exact location of the coil and if it is easily accessible. Also, where can I find the connections to check the resistance of the coil and the loop.
I felt a slight change in sound before it comes on every time after I reset . Can anyone explain to me how this code may affect my car and what change would I notice after fixing this coil?
Will my car run smoother than it does now?
Will it improve the mileage?
Would this solenoid restrict my car to limited speed?
Apologies for asking too much, but I am hopeful that I will be helped.
Thank you very much for you time and reply.
I had this check engine light ON many days now and today I have had it checked. The code is P0773, which means “Shift Solenoid "E" (Lock-Up Solenoid) Electrical Circuit Malfunction”. I hope the problem is only with the wiring or the coil.
I need your help to find out the exact location of the coil and if it is easily accessible. Also, where can I find the connections to check the resistance of the coil and the loop.
I felt a slight change in sound before it comes on every time after I reset . Can anyone explain to me how this code may affect my car and what change would I notice after fixing this coil?
Will my car run smoother than it does now?
Will it improve the mileage?
Would this solenoid restrict my car to limited speed?
Apologies for asking too much, but I am hopeful that I will be helped.
Thank you very much for you time and reply.
Last edited by Aman; 08-09-13 at 08:36 AM.
08-04-13, 09:55 AM
#2
Lexus Champion
As a starting point, best thing for you to do is a google search on "p0773".
You will find plenty of information as it relates to both Lexus and Toyota.
Phil
You will find plenty of information as it relates to both Lexus and Toyota.
Phil
08-04-13, 06:26 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thank you Phil,
I have read about this problem and how it might affect performance of my car. Also, I have got the FSM for my car which is showing the resistance check method but the only thing I could not find is the location of the Solenoid E.
Can you please help me with that?
P.S: I have not yet started checking the connections and the sensor. Just wondering if it would be easy to access after I open the hood.
Thank you very much.
I have read about this problem and how it might affect performance of my car. Also, I have got the FSM for my car which is showing the resistance check method but the only thing I could not find is the location of the Solenoid E.
Can you please help me with that?
P.S: I have not yet started checking the connections and the sensor. Just wondering if it would be easy to access after I open the hood.
Thank you very much.
08-04-13, 07:08 PM
#4
Lexus Champion
Transmissions are not my expertise, so I may be wrong, but I believe that the solenoid is internal to the transmission. You may have to remove the pan to get to it.
Hopefully, someone with expertise in that area will chime in for you
Phil
Hopefully, someone with expertise in that area will chime in for you
Phil
Last edited by PFB; 08-04-13 at 07:17 PM.
08-06-13, 08:01 AM
#5
The lock-up solenoid is what enables your transmission to switch into "over-drive" mode at highway speeds over 40mph.
The lock-up solenoid is located on top of the valve body inside the transmission.
The valve body will have to be removed from the transmission to access the wiring harness and solenoid.
Though not too bad of an issue, the solenoid should be replaced soon to prevent overheating of the transmission fluid and loss of gas mileage.
If you're mechanically inclined and with basic tools, the solenoid can be replaced yourself.
The lock-up solenoid is located on top of the valve body inside the transmission.
The valve body will have to be removed from the transmission to access the wiring harness and solenoid.
Though not too bad of an issue, the solenoid should be replaced soon to prevent overheating of the transmission fluid and loss of gas mileage.
If you're mechanically inclined and with basic tools, the solenoid can be replaced yourself.
08-06-13, 12:00 PM
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thank you for your reply - My gas mileage is not very good and I believe it is because of this issue. Also, I have the FSM and will try to search the exact location. I hope I will be able to fix it by myself.
Does over drive mean that my Car will shift into the highest gear? in my case, it is a four speed car - would it make it shift into fifth gear?
Thank you very mukch.
Does over drive mean that my Car will shift into the highest gear? in my case, it is a four speed car - would it make it shift into fifth gear?
Thank you very mukch.
10-01-13, 07:23 PM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I have fixed it.
Hello again,
I would like to thank you very all for your replies.
I checked the loop of the 'Shift Solenoid E (DSL)' as per the attached troubleshooting guide and found it open.
Finally, I purchased one from an auto shop and had it replaced two days ago.
The check-Engine light has not lit again and I hope it won't, since the loop is complete.
I didn't notice a significant difference in my driving experience and the RPM seems to be the same while driving above 45 MPH but hope there is no damage being caused to my transmission now.
Thank you again for replying to my question. Any comment or suggestion will be appreciated! 
I would like to thank you very all for your replies.
I checked the loop of the 'Shift Solenoid E (DSL)' as per the attached troubleshooting guide and found it open.
Finally, I purchased one from an auto shop and had it replaced two days ago.
The check-Engine light has not lit again and I hope it won't, since the loop is complete.
I didn't notice a significant difference in my driving experience and the RPM seems to be the same while driving above 45 MPH but hope there is no damage being caused to my transmission now.
Thank you again for replying to my question. Any comment or suggestion will be appreciated!
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07-29-15, 07:58 AM
#8
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I just had this code pop up today, and from reading everything, it sounds like replacing the solenoid will work for me. Only question is, I have to drive from Tyler, TX to San Diego, CA in about 2 weeks and am wondering will be an issue? thanks.
07-29-15, 01:27 PM
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talking about 1,400 miles in a 24 hours span. Should I take it easy?
07-29-15, 01:40 PM
#10
I would think twice about crossing the desert southwest in high summer with a malfunctioning transmission solenoid. I'd replace it before hand; two weeks is not a difficult time to get that done.
Presuming the solenoid is in/op, then you will just run in a lower gear and not get OD, increasing transmission temps a bit per chosen speed. If it decides to play up and cause a lot of shifting in/out of OD, then you could burn up the TC clutch. You might get away with it driving a little slower w/o any harm. You might not.
Presuming the solenoid is in/op, then you will just run in a lower gear and not get OD, increasing transmission temps a bit per chosen speed. If it decides to play up and cause a lot of shifting in/out of OD, then you could burn up the TC clutch. You might get away with it driving a little slower w/o any harm. You might not.
07-29-15, 03:15 PM
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I would think twice about crossing the desert southwest in high summer with a malfunctioning transmission solenoid. I'd replace it before hand; two weeks is not a difficult time to get that done.
Presuming the solenoid is in/op, then you will just run in a lower gear and not get OD, increasing transmission temps a bit per chosen speed. If it decides to play up and cause a lot of shifting in/out of OD, then you could burn up the TC clutch. You might get away with it driving a little slower w/o any harm. You might not.
Presuming the solenoid is in/op, then you will just run in a lower gear and not get OD, increasing transmission temps a bit per chosen speed. If it decides to play up and cause a lot of shifting in/out of OD, then you could burn up the TC clutch. You might get away with it driving a little slower w/o any harm. You might not.
07-30-15, 09:50 PM
#13
Sorry to be abrupt last night. I wrote a more detailed response as I was falling asleep, then the dang ipad dumped it and I could not muster the energy to repeat it.
I would say this, apples to apples, you could get this done for $200 or less. Pass the hat around the dugout, or call mom and dad. Unpaid internships require backing, so tap yours.
What your risk is this: to keep trans temps the same, you will have to run at 54mph vs. 70mph (assuming a 1:1 vs. .77/1 OD ratio - reasonable ball park). Temps kill trannies. That's barring it acting up on the way. I'm also gonna wonder when this tranny fluid was last changed, and if not the last few years, then if the trip itself could harm the tranny (have seen hard summer trips do that on neglected transmissions).
The part and a gallon of fluid should be $100 I'm guessing (use a gallon of MaxLife from WalMart, $18). Put an add on CL and have a mechanic do it "shade tree" for $50/hour. $200 and you have it working properly, a drain/fill w/new fluid for added protection.
Get it done now and don't get stranded on I-10 1/2 way which will cost you a $1,000.
I would say this, apples to apples, you could get this done for $200 or less. Pass the hat around the dugout, or call mom and dad. Unpaid internships require backing, so tap yours.
What your risk is this: to keep trans temps the same, you will have to run at 54mph vs. 70mph (assuming a 1:1 vs. .77/1 OD ratio - reasonable ball park). Temps kill trannies. That's barring it acting up on the way. I'm also gonna wonder when this tranny fluid was last changed, and if not the last few years, then if the trip itself could harm the tranny (have seen hard summer trips do that on neglected transmissions).
The part and a gallon of fluid should be $100 I'm guessing (use a gallon of MaxLife from WalMart, $18). Put an add on CL and have a mechanic do it "shade tree" for $50/hour. $200 and you have it working properly, a drain/fill w/new fluid for added protection.
Get it done now and don't get stranded on I-10 1/2 way which will cost you a $1,000.
08-03-15, 09:41 AM
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Sorry to be abrupt last night. I wrote a more detailed response as I was falling asleep, then the dang ipad dumped it and I could not muster the energy to repeat it.
I would say this, apples to apples, you could get this done for $200 or less. Pass the hat around the dugout, or call mom and dad. Unpaid internships require backing, so tap yours.
What your risk is this: to keep trans temps the same, you will have to run at 54mph vs. 70mph (assuming a 1:1 vs. .77/1 OD ratio - reasonable ball park). Temps kill trannies. That's barring it acting up on the way. I'm also gonna wonder when this tranny fluid was last changed, and if not the last few years, then if the trip itself could harm the tranny (have seen hard summer trips do that on neglected transmissions).
The part and a gallon of fluid should be $100 I'm guessing (use a gallon of MaxLife from WalMart, $18). Put an add on CL and have a mechanic do it "shade tree" for $50/hour. $200 and you have it working properly, a drain/fill w/new fluid for added protection.
Get it done now and don't get stranded on I-10 1/2 way which will cost you a $1,000.
I would say this, apples to apples, you could get this done for $200 or less. Pass the hat around the dugout, or call mom and dad. Unpaid internships require backing, so tap yours.
What your risk is this: to keep trans temps the same, you will have to run at 54mph vs. 70mph (assuming a 1:1 vs. .77/1 OD ratio - reasonable ball park). Temps kill trannies. That's barring it acting up on the way. I'm also gonna wonder when this tranny fluid was last changed, and if not the last few years, then if the trip itself could harm the tranny (have seen hard summer trips do that on neglected transmissions).
The part and a gallon of fluid should be $100 I'm guessing (use a gallon of MaxLife from WalMart, $18). Put an add on CL and have a mechanic do it "shade tree" for $50/hour. $200 and you have it working properly, a drain/fill w/new fluid for added protection.
Get it done now and don't get stranded on I-10 1/2 way which will cost you a $1,000.
A guy at a local AAMCO told me $400, so $200 sounds peachy,but I'm seeing the part itself online for $175-$200 on partsgeek.com
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