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when you clean throttle, did you turn ON engine to get air intake?
when you clean by brush around plate, was engine OFF, but gas pedal full floor position only?
Do you recommend to use 3M 08963 Fuel System Tune-Up Kit for intake cleaning? or just carb cleaner?
Do I need to lube orange / red gasket before install and by what?
Did you use Dialectic Grease? And for what part and how?
What spark plugs to buy and from where? What is the part #?
the same for PCV and gasket?
I estimate it may take me 4-8 hours - is it right for 1st time?
thanks
To clean the throttle body, the key is turned to the ON position but the car is NOT started, and the pedal is floored to open the butterfly valve. Use throttle body cleaner and not carb cleaner.
You should get a new intake plenum gasket before you start from the dealer.
I didn't use dielectric grease, but supposedly you put it on the spark plug so it makes good electrical contact with the coils.
I bought NGK iridiums. Many part stores have them, including RockAuto. The PCV and gasket I got from the dealer.
It should take you 4 hours if you take your time. Most of the hoses around the throttle body don't have to come off because you can just move the TB/plenum assembly to the side as you saw in my video.
I see several options at amazon:
NGK (3764) BKR6EIX-11 Iridium IX
NGK (4589) IFR6T-11 Laser Iridium
NGK (6418) BKR6EIX Iridium IX
DENSO # 3297 SK20R11 Iridium LONG LIFE
which one to get?
edited: I ordered from amazon DENSO # 3297 SK20R11 Iridium LONG LIFE. now I need to get all tools and 8 hours time to start the replacement
thanks OP
finally finished this DIY project
the most time was spent putting back 3 rear screws - REAL REAL PITA
wrench ratchet 12 and 14 are the must - IMHO
I'll need to replace vapor 1 hose - it lost elasticity on engine side, like a plastic that cracks
so I cut till normal rubber and reconnect in half on steel pipe till I get replacement hose
looks like heat made this hose after 10 year bad
my total time 6-7 hours
looking forward to not do it again for the next 10 years
The rear most (14mm) bolt is the hardest to thread in, but its not really as hard as people state it to be. The other two 12mm bolts aren't that hard as there is much more clearance behind the throttle body from the driver's side of the car.
Taking out a rear cam seal with the fender in the way is more of a pain
Just finished my friend's 2003 ES300. Absolutely could not have done it without the flex-head ratcheting wrenches. Also, I tied sewing thread around the stay bolts and guess what? Dropped the first one in about 3 seconds and was able to easily retrieve it. Two great tips from speedkar9. This video was spot on and a great service to anyone attempting this job. I would also point out that the original ngk's with 139k miles looked great with a perfect 0.044 gap just like right out of the box.
Just finished my friend's 2003 ES300. Absolutely could not have done it without the flex-head ratcheting wrenches. Also, I tied sewing thread around the stay bolts and guess what? Dropped the first one in about 3 seconds and was able to easily retrieve it. Two great tips from speedkar9. This video was spot on and a great service to anyone attempting this job. I would also point out that the original ngk's with 139k miles looked great with a perfect 0.044 gap just like right out of the box.
Thanks for the feedback, glad you got the job done.
Ask me why I had to tie the fishing wire...I dropped it first time with nothing tied to it
According to 2005 ES330 manual the torque should be 18 ft-lbf
Originally Posted by KLF
I was thinking the same thing, maybe I did turn the ignition on and don't remember. This was part of a 3-day job (also did the timing belt, all the seals, P/S flush, trans flush, etc) which took me 3 days due to several interruptions for family obligations. The CEL did not come on when I did the Highlander, so maybe that's what caused it.
The Highlander was much easier, went a lot quicker. I think about 2 hours total, and that was changing the oil at the same time. I would never attempt to swap these plugs without removing the intake, I don't care what people say that it can be done. It's not that big of a deal, if you have the right tools.
Thank you for the very detailed instructions on this job. Unfortunately, I decided to take it further and remove the valve cover gasket to install a new one. Big mistake. The valve cover gasket pinched and about 3 quarts of oil ended up on the ground. Fun fun. I had to take it to a shop to fix that issue as I ran out of time. The number of bolts and brackets required for the spark plug and the valve cover gasket is staggering. I spent almost 7 hours on that job.
If all you have to do is the spark plugs, your video and instructions helped greatly. If you do the valve cover gasket, make darned sure that you have all day and don't pinch the damned gasket.
2007 Lexus RX350. To whoever was nice enough to post https://www.clublexus.com/how-tos/a/...n-coils-366254 you are awesome... I have been all over the web trying to find how to get the bolts off the back of the plastic manifold looking piece to get to the ignition coils. This is the wife's vehicle and she loves it. I hate the thing with a passion due to the general maintenance requirements difficulty level (I have large hands) but at least I can find some good instructions here! May the engineer that built this thing be forced to work on it him/herself! BTW, it is easier to work on an AH-64D apache that this thing! Wife owes me a new 10mm socket! Thanks again to whoever wrote that above article!
Last edited by 13F; 07-23-18 at 03:26 PM.
Reason: Make / Model insert
I’m approaching 120K on my 2005 ES330 and this DIY takes away the fear of getting this out of the way. “My Son the Mechanic” and me as his Tool Man (go-fer) can’t be beat.
11-17-14, 06:17 PM
