I've really gone off the deep end this time...
06-01-13, 05:25 PM
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I've really gone off the deep end this time...
The project: Add AVS suspension to the ES300
About 6 months ago I discovered, while fiddling around with some other stuff, that all 3ES, or at least my 2001, are wired up for the AVS suspension. Behind the dash, at the switch location, out to each strut the wires are all there. Inspired by my dissatisfaction with the over-sportiness of the Tokico blue struts and the experience of adjusting the Tokco HTS struts on our AutoX Focus ZX3 (they go from soft to "holy crap is there concrete in there??" for racing)...I hatched a plan. See the shocks are the brains of the suspension, so much is dictated by damping. I wanted to feel for myself what could be the best setup for the 3ES.
The AVS stuff is heart stoppingly expensive if you were to buy it all new and some of it might not be available. Struts are about $350 each (at CL Sewell price, retail is like $600), the Suspension computer is $1400 etc. Even used you will pay good money for an old AVS strut off a 97-99 ES. 00-01 still had the AVS option officially, but I don't think they actually made any, never seen one. Most people are getting rid of the system when the struts blow, who would want to swap it in? Well me, that's who. I enjoy the adventure as much as the result ha.
With all the wiring there, here is what needs to be sourced and installed to have AVS:
AVS struts
AVS computer (behind driver dash)
AVS control switch (on console)
AVS Steering wheel angle sensor
Now in JDM land the AVS system is pretty much standard equipment. Checking some part numbers it looks like the Japanese Windom used the same AVS struts as the USDM ES300. So off to the auctions I went, scored 8 struts, I figure I gotta get 4 good ones out of the batch right? I got those all for $300 or so, and then another $100 to ship it here. Was able to get them in though pressurized struts get trouble sometimes. Assuming I wouldn't find a ES300 steering sensor easily here, I picked up a whole combination switch with the steering sensor while I was shopping.
Next up was the computer, fairly easy, scored one on EBay cheap from a 98 ES300.
The swtich was cheap enough new so I bought that and some extra parts like the nuts to mount the computer and a couple wire extension harnesses needed up front.
When I got the struts, I disassembled until I had what felt like 4 good ones. both rears I got on the first try, but I had two blown fronts, but two good ones woohoo! This was what was left when I finished, the other two rears might be good spares I haven't taken them apart yet.
As you can see the wiring for each strut is taped up, just free it and plug in.
All plugged in, there are boots here that cover the strut and plug up front, but they are stupid expensive new from Lexus and unable to find used, so I skipped them.
Now with that done, the rest felt easier. But there were some challenges...
The computer was cake, mount it up and plug it in. Then on to the steering angle sensor...take off the steering wheel and sprial cable...not so fast.
The JDM combination switch is obviously sourced from a different supplier (who'd want to swap LHD and RHD parts??) so I couldn't swap the whole thing. The turn signal and headlight switch, while outwardly identical (well mirror image), are not even close to the same! I had to improvise and swap some parts around to get the steering angle sensor wheel on. The sensor itself mounts right up and plugs in. Now that I had it all back together...I found my turn signal cancelling was broke...oh right RHD turn signal stalk is on the other side....took it all back apart this morning and improvised another fix...got it! Here is the steering sensor mounted up. Fits perfect right behind the spiral cable.
Now mounting the switch...of course I have to make things difficult. There are shift trims out there used with heated seats and AVS switch holes. Of course I swapped the Nak stereo in, which has the Coach bird's eye maple wood. Try to find a walnut Nak head unit...good luck I've never seen one. Now I have been collecting maple wood trims for some time, price is not the issue, finding them and buying them is. Well new they are ridiculously priced or not available. I actually assembled a whole set over time so I can have the only 3ES ever with sage interior and maple wood trim. I got spares, think i have a problem?
Before you laugh, those shifter trims are mostly discontinued, or $1400 each new Sewell price. Now I was never able to find a maple with the heated seat switches, but I have 3 good ones without heated seat holes. And there is not a part number for a 3 hole maple shifter trim, which means that AVS was not available on the Platinum/Coach models. I was going to have to cut some holes. Don't want to burn a spare, one good nick and the part is not really useful any more so had to be careful.
I mapped out the switch placement stenciling from another trim and then figuring the center between the two heated seat switches.
After very careful routing and sanding with the Dremel
Success!!
Finally completes the AVS project and the maple trim at the same time
maple trim and chrome bits come together nicely. The steering wheel...well now that is a story for another day. I'll be selling spare wood wheels soon, check the classifieds here I'll try to find a buyer on CL before I go to EBay.
Driving Impressions:
First let me say the Lexus ride is back. Honestly my stock shocks were probably not blown at 98k, I just love to fiddle with stuff I guess, should have left them. This really is a good plug for the stock shocks, most report the ride gets rougher with almost every aftermarket option out there.
Now before I give the impressions I have made this handy guide, so when you drive your own AVS ES300 (LOL) you'll know which setting to use on which occasion:
As you see, you can run the gamut from full on marshmallow to something a bit sporty. Really all it ever gets is a bit sporty. If i could dial my own settings I'd have the sport setting be a bit more like the Tokico Blues, being able to dial that on and off would be ideal. But as it is, you can have the slightly soft and standard stock ES300 feel or you can have something more like a Honda or a Camry SE or something like that.
Reading from the Service Manual I learned there is some magic sauce here, there are not just 4 shock settings there are 10. The computer controls them independently front and rear through those settings. The AVS computer has feeds from the ECU, ABS/TRAC computer, the ateering angle sensor and the control switch. inside the AVS computer is a g-sensor (Don't know how many axes) so there is quite a bit the AVS computer knows. Adjusting the roller switch basically controls what range of damping the AVS computer uses, tending toward soft or stiff as you command.
It all works pretty well. On the normal "ES300" setting you get a great ride, when you bend into a corner you can feel the damping firms up, bumps are not so upsetting as I recall, feels pretty buttoned down. Not a big reason to choose the sport setting, unless you just feel the mood. I kinda like that. The Cadillac setting is nice for when you have passengers to give them the full floating experience.
So that's it. Hope you enjoyed the story. It really did not cost too much to do this, just time. No idea how long the struts will last...we shall see! If one were to blow I might even justify the $350 for a new one.
About 6 months ago I discovered, while fiddling around with some other stuff, that all 3ES, or at least my 2001, are wired up for the AVS suspension. Behind the dash, at the switch location, out to each strut the wires are all there. Inspired by my dissatisfaction with the over-sportiness of the Tokico blue struts and the experience of adjusting the Tokco HTS struts on our AutoX Focus ZX3 (they go from soft to "holy crap is there concrete in there??" for racing)...I hatched a plan. See the shocks are the brains of the suspension, so much is dictated by damping. I wanted to feel for myself what could be the best setup for the 3ES.
The AVS stuff is heart stoppingly expensive if you were to buy it all new and some of it might not be available. Struts are about $350 each (at CL Sewell price, retail is like $600), the Suspension computer is $1400 etc. Even used you will pay good money for an old AVS strut off a 97-99 ES. 00-01 still had the AVS option officially, but I don't think they actually made any, never seen one. Most people are getting rid of the system when the struts blow, who would want to swap it in? Well me, that's who. I enjoy the adventure as much as the result ha.
With all the wiring there, here is what needs to be sourced and installed to have AVS:
AVS struts
AVS computer (behind driver dash)
AVS control switch (on console)
AVS Steering wheel angle sensor
Now in JDM land the AVS system is pretty much standard equipment. Checking some part numbers it looks like the Japanese Windom used the same AVS struts as the USDM ES300. So off to the auctions I went, scored 8 struts, I figure I gotta get 4 good ones out of the batch right? I got those all for $300 or so, and then another $100 to ship it here. Was able to get them in though pressurized struts get trouble sometimes. Assuming I wouldn't find a ES300 steering sensor easily here, I picked up a whole combination switch with the steering sensor while I was shopping.
Next up was the computer, fairly easy, scored one on EBay cheap from a 98 ES300.
The swtich was cheap enough new so I bought that and some extra parts like the nuts to mount the computer and a couple wire extension harnesses needed up front.
When I got the struts, I disassembled until I had what felt like 4 good ones. both rears I got on the first try, but I had two blown fronts, but two good ones woohoo! This was what was left when I finished, the other two rears might be good spares I haven't taken them apart yet.
As you can see the wiring for each strut is taped up, just free it and plug in.
All plugged in, there are boots here that cover the strut and plug up front, but they are stupid expensive new from Lexus and unable to find used, so I skipped them.
Now with that done, the rest felt easier. But there were some challenges...
The computer was cake, mount it up and plug it in. Then on to the steering angle sensor...take off the steering wheel and sprial cable...not so fast.
The JDM combination switch is obviously sourced from a different supplier (who'd want to swap LHD and RHD parts??) so I couldn't swap the whole thing. The turn signal and headlight switch, while outwardly identical (well mirror image), are not even close to the same! I had to improvise and swap some parts around to get the steering angle sensor wheel on. The sensor itself mounts right up and plugs in. Now that I had it all back together...I found my turn signal cancelling was broke...oh right RHD turn signal stalk is on the other side....took it all back apart this morning and improvised another fix...got it! Here is the steering sensor mounted up. Fits perfect right behind the spiral cable.
Now mounting the switch...of course I have to make things difficult. There are shift trims out there used with heated seats and AVS switch holes. Of course I swapped the Nak stereo in, which has the Coach bird's eye maple wood. Try to find a walnut Nak head unit...good luck I've never seen one. Now I have been collecting maple wood trims for some time, price is not the issue, finding them and buying them is. Well new they are ridiculously priced or not available. I actually assembled a whole set over time so I can have the only 3ES ever with sage interior and maple wood trim. I got spares, think i have a problem?
Before you laugh, those shifter trims are mostly discontinued, or $1400 each new Sewell price. Now I was never able to find a maple with the heated seat switches, but I have 3 good ones without heated seat holes. And there is not a part number for a 3 hole maple shifter trim, which means that AVS was not available on the Platinum/Coach models. I was going to have to cut some holes. Don't want to burn a spare, one good nick and the part is not really useful any more so had to be careful.
I mapped out the switch placement stenciling from another trim and then figuring the center between the two heated seat switches.
After very careful routing and sanding with the Dremel
Success!!
Finally completes the AVS project and the maple trim at the same time
maple trim and chrome bits come together nicely. The steering wheel...well now that is a story for another day. I'll be selling spare wood wheels soon, check the classifieds here I'll try to find a buyer on CL before I go to EBay.
Driving Impressions:
First let me say the Lexus ride is back. Honestly my stock shocks were probably not blown at 98k, I just love to fiddle with stuff I guess, should have left them. This really is a good plug for the stock shocks, most report the ride gets rougher with almost every aftermarket option out there.
Now before I give the impressions I have made this handy guide, so when you drive your own AVS ES300 (LOL) you'll know which setting to use on which occasion:
As you see, you can run the gamut from full on marshmallow to something a bit sporty. Really all it ever gets is a bit sporty. If i could dial my own settings I'd have the sport setting be a bit more like the Tokico Blues, being able to dial that on and off would be ideal. But as it is, you can have the slightly soft and standard stock ES300 feel or you can have something more like a Honda or a Camry SE or something like that.
Reading from the Service Manual I learned there is some magic sauce here, there are not just 4 shock settings there are 10. The computer controls them independently front and rear through those settings. The AVS computer has feeds from the ECU, ABS/TRAC computer, the ateering angle sensor and the control switch. inside the AVS computer is a g-sensor (Don't know how many axes) so there is quite a bit the AVS computer knows. Adjusting the roller switch basically controls what range of damping the AVS computer uses, tending toward soft or stiff as you command.
It all works pretty well. On the normal "ES300" setting you get a great ride, when you bend into a corner you can feel the damping firms up, bumps are not so upsetting as I recall, feels pretty buttoned down. Not a big reason to choose the sport setting, unless you just feel the mood. I kinda like that. The Cadillac setting is nice for when you have passengers to give them the full floating experience.
So that's it. Hope you enjoyed the story. It really did not cost too much to do this, just time. No idea how long the struts will last...we shall see! If one were to blow I might even justify the $350 for a new one.
06-01-13, 07:22 PM
#5
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Thanks for the compliments all, I wasn't sure which way the sentiment would go, it is a pretty dumb idea to do this swap hahah but so far loving it.
06-01-13, 07:59 PM
#7
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
The fact that the car is wired already was the sweet part that made this whole thing possible. Now I have almost every option in a combo that wasn't available ha.
Last edited by Power6; 06-01-13 at 08:03 PM.
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06-01-13, 08:32 PM
#8
Another great DIY from Power6. I read the whole thing and really enjoyed it. What website did you use to get the JDM struts? I wonder if you can get the standard ES300 struts from them for even less. I really miss the the stock ride - having the perfect "drop" is overrated. How did determine that some of the struts were blown?
p.s.: You misspelled the "steering angle sensor" in the third to last paragraph.
p.s.: You misspelled the "steering angle sensor" in the third to last paragraph.
06-02-13, 07:16 PM
#11
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Mr. B I bought the struts from Yahoo Japan auctions through a purchase service (I use Japanparts). Some of the sellers are getting savvy now and selling directly on EBay to reach the US "JDM" market willing to pay more for parts. Cheapest price on EBay right now for a Windom strut is $289 shipped, might as well buy new for that price! With a purchase service you pay a fair "domestic" price on a Yahoo auction (which is loaded with AVS Windom struts) for a used part and can ship everything in the same shipment saves money. You'd have a hard time finding a non-AVS Windom strut!
I hand tested the struts, push down and see what happens. The gas pressure should push them back up and there should be some damping action. One of the fronts compressed and didn't come back up, the other bad one had no apparent damping when I compressed it. This is pretty typical of a bad shock you can usually tell by hand. The other struts were good. There is a test procedure in the service manual for the AVS system, I cycled through the damping steps while bouncing each corner of the car, that test came out good so I think the struts I have in the car are good.
As mentioned in my noisy suspension thread, I took my Whiteline bars off because I thought they were noisy. Turns out they weren't but the ride is more pleasant without the big bars and the handling is alright with the AVS system. I put the stock front 17mm bar and the 17mm Avalon rear bar on. I think I'll stick with this combo for now. Was driving around in "Sorta Sporty" mode today works nice.
I hand tested the struts, push down and see what happens. The gas pressure should push them back up and there should be some damping action. One of the fronts compressed and didn't come back up, the other bad one had no apparent damping when I compressed it. This is pretty typical of a bad shock you can usually tell by hand. The other struts were good. There is a test procedure in the service manual for the AVS system, I cycled through the damping steps while bouncing each corner of the car, that test came out good so I think the struts I have in the car are good.
As mentioned in my noisy suspension thread, I took my Whiteline bars off because I thought they were noisy. Turns out they weren't but the ride is more pleasant without the big bars and the handling is alright with the AVS system. I put the stock front 17mm bar and the 17mm Avalon rear bar on. I think I'll stick with this combo for now. Was driving around in "Sorta Sporty" mode today works nice.
02-09-14, 05:56 AM
#12
Pole Position
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When I was replacing one of my rear struts (non-Tems Windom) I found the wiring was present
for the TEMS shocks....
I'd assume it would be about the same as in this thread.... They would have made it so if a customer requested the feature it was an easy fit at the factory with most of the stuff already in place...
02-17-14, 06:28 AM
#13
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
For a USA 2ES, it might be a tough fit as that generation did not have a TEMS/AVS option from Lexus, you'd have to source all parts from overseas if it is an option. As I have learned from doing some other projects, there are many cases where a car is not pre-wired for every option, for example on this car the Nakamichi and HID (which I also swapped in ;-)) are not pre-wired. Carrying a couple different wire harnesses at the factory is no big deal.
BTW many months on I am loving the AVS. I use normal mode most of the time for the comfortable ride, and switch to sport when I want something a bit more tied down. Totally suits my changing moods. worth every penny and hour I spent on this. For those keeping score TEMS=AVS I guess Toyota thought Lexus needed its own name for the adjustable suspension.
BTW many months on I am loving the AVS. I use normal mode most of the time for the comfortable ride, and switch to sport when I want something a bit more tied down. Totally suits my changing moods. worth every penny and hour I spent on this. For those keeping score TEMS=AVS I guess Toyota thought Lexus needed its own name for the adjustable suspension.
02-17-14, 12:14 PM
#14
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That's interesting.......
I guess my car being an export from Japan (JDM) might explain why it's got the TEMS/AVS wiring in place.....
When I say the wiring is in place, I mean the connectors are in place and ready to go, so it's a case of bolt the TEMS shocks in, and plug them in to the pre-installed connectors...
I haven't lifted the panel up where the control for suspension goes to see what's underneath and if the switch/control would just be a straight plug & play style arrangement... The ECU and steering angle sensor wheel I'm not sure about.... At least I have a RHD, so the JDM stuff is easy to bolt on not needing any creativity...
Maybe one day.... Got other maintenance to get on with first...
LOL at Lexus needing a new name for Toyota's TEMS...............
I guess my car being an export from Japan (JDM) might explain why it's got the TEMS/AVS wiring in place.....
When I say the wiring is in place, I mean the connectors are in place and ready to go, so it's a case of bolt the TEMS shocks in, and plug them in to the pre-installed connectors...
I haven't lifted the panel up where the control for suspension goes to see what's underneath and if the switch/control would just be a straight plug & play style arrangement... The ECU and steering angle sensor wheel I'm not sure about.... At least I have a RHD, so the JDM stuff is easy to bolt on not needing any creativity...
Maybe one day.... Got other maintenance to get on with first...
LOL at Lexus needing a new name for Toyota's TEMS...............
02-19-14, 05:51 AM
#15
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Its possible the 2ES is wired up too...just no idea since I have a 3ES and thats all I cared about. I found out the same way as you...saw the strut wires first, so I am guessing all the other stuff is there for you as it was on my 3ES, plugs for the switch, ECU everything is probably there just taped up out of the way.
Makes what would basically be impossible into possible!
Makes what would basically be impossible into possible!