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es300 clockspring advice needed

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Old 05-08-13, 07:38 AM
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canucklehe
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Default es300 clockspring advice needed

I posted about my cruise and horn not working on my 1993 es300. After much searching and poking around, I think it is my clockspring.

I am unclear on removal and re-install. I will definitely go with used as new is too much and I'm selling car. Some have posted that when they pulled off their wheel, they broke the spring. Other indications that a used clockspring has to be turned to tension it and not moved until wheel is installed (?).

Most of the info I found were for other models/newer, that have additional controls for radio, etc.., so maybe mine is different. Anyways, has anyone replaced clockspring and can they share their wisdom?

THANKS!!
Old 05-08-13, 09:27 AM
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LeX2K
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Replacing the clockspring is a bit of a pain but not that difficult. I've pulled one before but don't remember the exact procedure, but it is something like this:

Remove the negative battery terminal, wait 2+ minutes.

First remove the two plastic covers, one on the cruise control switch, and one directly on the other side of the steering wheel. Remove the torx screws, then pull the airbag forward and disconnect the connectors. You may have to use a small screwdriver and pry the screws on one side forward and out of the plastic surround or the airbag won't come out.

Loosen the 19mm bolt that secures the steering wheel but don't remove it completely. Sit in the drivers seat and pull the wheel forward while you are levering it back and forth. With some effort it will come loose, then remove the nut and steering wheel.

This is the part that gets hazy because it's been awhile since I've done it. Remove the steering column covers, and plastic trim pieces under the column. Remove the screws securing turn signal/light switch stalk to the column, and the screws holding the harness under the column. Once you have everything exposed, you should be able to disconnect the large connector (and a couple more) and withdraw the entire harness including the clockspring. If you are only buying the clockspring and not the entire harness section, you will have to cut the tape etc. to separate it out.

When installing the clockspring, follow the directions on the face of the assembly, it tells you exactly how. Make sure you follow this! If you don't, the clockspring will bind and you could get into an accident. It's not difficult, the spring rotates 6 full revolutions, so you rotate the clockspring until it won't rotate anymore, then rotate it back 3 revolutions and line up the red arrows. You then point the wheels/tires straight ahead and install the clockspring.
Old 05-08-13, 10:06 AM
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canucklehe
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thanks Lexus2000. i may go to wrecker today and pull one off, and leave all the wiring attached. also hoping i might be able to figure out a way to pull the knock sensor wiring from ECU to side of motor connection.

I can see someone has been playing with steering wheel before, so I wonder if they never set up clockspring properly? would it be too late now to try to set my existing spring up rpoperly, or would it get ruined the moment you install it wrong? (my guess is they never set the tension at all).

I read something about 2.5 turns, and you indicate 3, so it is probably right in that range, depending on lining up the arrows you refer to.

Last edited by canucklehe; 05-08-13 at 10:10 AM.
Old 05-08-13, 12:29 PM
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LeX2K
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If the clockspring was not set properly, at some point turning the wheel would have caused it to bind and probably destroy it. There are explicit instructions on the part itself on how to install it. Basically when it is centered, you get about 3.25 rotations in either direction. So to set it, you simply rotate one way until it won't rotate anymore, then rotate the other direction 3 turns and a bit, and line up the arrows.

The 2.5 turns probably refers to the steering wheel itself, the clockspring always has some margin built in. BTW have you tried replacing your ECU to fix the knock sensor problem? I think you have tried that but can't remember for sure.
Old 05-08-13, 01:11 PM
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canucklehe
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of course!! that makes sense. so you're essentially setting the clock spring in the middle.

I had the airbag off the other day and could see some writing on the clockspring, but I thought it said to refer to the service manual.

yes sir, I replaced the ECU by swapping it out with my other 93 Lexus. ECU is ruled out. Also replaced knock sensors and wiring under intake, so I think it's somewhere between knock sensor wiring stretch from ECU to side of motor. I'd be happy to try a complete bypass with replacement shielding wiring from that spot to the ECU.

from what I've been able to find out, it seems like the wires to ECU are on the 16 pin "B" connector, solid white, and solid black = knock sensors. They are shielded and the shielding is supposed to be grounded. They just look like plain old 18g wires to me, they don't look shielded, but I haven't cut or stripped them to see.

Only shielded wire replacement I seem to be able to identify is like cablevision wires. awfully big... I had hoped to find some other shielded wire solution. I'll ask parts place.
Old 05-10-13, 07:26 AM
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canucklehe
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took it apart and was thinking of swapping out from my other car, before going to wrecker. My alignment mechanic friend said to just do a straight re&re and to not try to set the tension on the donor one. He said that's already been done and I'll break it if I try to spin it 6 turns and then go back.

on the clockspring it has "6 turns" marked beside the alignment arrow. Then on the other side of spring the instructions say, 1. point wheels straight ahead (that one is easy!!) 2. "rotate 3 turns from left end" 3. align red marks (that's easy too!).

Am I rotating clockwise, or CCW ? Where is "left end" that I'm supposed to turn from? Am I supposed to first go 6 turns and then come back 3 so it's centered?

this should be simple (especially if you've done it correctly before), but the instructions seem a bit unclear to me. And if there is a wrong way to mess this up, I'm the man to do it!!

what about my mechanic friend's advice that it's already set in donor car? OR when I remove it, will it uncoil inside and set to a new spot?
Old 05-10-13, 07:50 AM
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LeX2K
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Originally Posted by canucklehe
My alignment mechanic friend said to just do a straight re&re and to not try to set the tension on the donor one.
Your alignment mechanic is giving scary bad advice. You are not setting tension (there isn't any to speak of), you are making sure the clockspring is centered. Anyway, it is very very simple.

Rotate the clockspring counter clockwise until it won't turn anymore. Rotate 3 revolutions clockwise (and a little bit) and line up the arrows. Done.
Old 05-10-13, 05:19 PM
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canucklehe
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"tension" is probably my word. I think he was worried I'd tighten too much and perhaps break it. I see what you mean about the mid point.

I swapped them out on both my Lexus' and I now have working cruise & horn on both. airbag light still on. maybe module.

I centered the wheel on donor & driver cars and kept the clockspring in exact same spot just in case. but I do see what you mean; it is simple and just needs to be centered.
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