RalfyVA

so i just sprayed it. I let it sit and dry for at least 20 minutes just to be sure(spray crap evaporates on your hand in like 2 seconds lol) and also tightened up some air hose screws. I drove through the neighborhood, hit all the stop signs, and go no stutter. didnt feel anything when i got it up to 40 like i was before. but that whole placebo thing is in my head so ill give it time before i declare anything (; I really want to say that it drives a lot smoother than before. felt like i had to really step on the gas to get it up to 35-50. Also upon start-up it peaked at 1500 and immediately started falling, never looked on the road but when i stopped infront of my house it was idling right under the 750 mark while in drive( lowest Ive ever seen it. I will check back after some more driving.

moonphase

The PCM will take a couple of drive cycles from cold start to re-adjust long term fuel trim after the cleaning, but now with the clean MAF sensor, the PCM has more reliable airflow input. So give the PCM a little time to figure things out.
Keep us posted on your car's progress!

RalfyVA

so after the cleaning it seemed as if it fixed the problem, but it has come back. Its almost like the car is on a leash and it is being tugged on right around the 41-44mph mark. As far as the stuttering on initial acceleration from 0mph, its more jerky, and the rpms increase in "steps". as in it will jerk upwards 3-5 times jumping about 250 rpms each time until it shifts

JonnysES

Take a look at Your TPS readings if you have a scan tool or swap it out etc etc. No CEL'S? Also make sure you're throttle cable and kick down cable are good and tight and in proper adjustment. Take a look at make sure the cables running to cruise control are tight also. Your throttle cable runs through there before it hits the throttle body.

OceanView

Did you remove the IACV and clean it?
I did this recently and it made a difference compared to just spraying cleaner in the hole.
You will need to get a new gasket and use a tooth brush or wired brush to get all in all the small crevices.
Well worth the effort.

RalfyVA

I dont have a scanner but I'll bring that up to my mechanic that im working with. No CEL's are on. As for the cables, how tight is tight? should i be able to pull on it at all? I have cleaned the IACV in the past and it helped with a stalling problem i was having. However, i did not replace the gasket or even recognize that there was one. when i pulled it off it had some sticky gunk on it but no gasket. I did do a throttle body cleaning a little later but did not detatch the iacv, could dirty fluids have gone down the hole and interfere with the censor?

So i didnt actually take the valve off i just unplugged and unscrewed the sensor to get to the twisty ****

JonnysES

I would say no about dirty fluids but the cables should turn the throttle plate as soon as you touch the pedal you'll have to adjust at the tb and the cruise box basically as tight as you can get it without the idle hanging after you let go of the gas the pedal will be sensitive but you'll know it's tight just for now if you don't like the tightness you can back it off later lets just adjust it to rule that out. Pull the iac all the way apart and clean it don't use carb cleaner on the plastics

mmatheny

Resurrecting this thread, because I am having the EXACT SAME ISSUE with my '02! It is exactly like the OP posted. Below 38 or above 42 and it seems smooth as silk - in that range it is like he said - something tugging about every 1/4 second on the rear!

nikogio38

Dirty maf sensor

mmatheny

Well, found THIS on LOC:
"I too am having problems with a 2002 ES300 transmission. It first presented as a jerkiness as it ran at a steady 40 MPH on flat road."


And a reply:
"JoeG, the jerky ness at 40 mph is a simple solution. The tranny wants to go into overdrive, the speed tells it to go to 4th, it can't make up its minds.
Solution: move the shift lever to the left into "4" instead of D and cancel out the ability to go into 5th (overdrive). This is actually mentioned in the manual and is not specific to the Lexus ES tranny. When you go past 45 then move it back to D. If you are accelerating up through 40 mph, don't move the shift. You only have to do this when the jerking starts to happen....and that is only when you go steady 40 mph."


So seems to be issue with the crappy transmission.