umbro7267

the driver side rear caliper is not seized it moves when i reset it for the new rotors. however, the brakes are dragging and i have to think that it is do to the fact that i could not remove the caliper, it was definitely stuck on the post the bolt on the bottom came out with ease but i could not even wiggle it by hand. so now it is making a slight dragging noise. by slight i mean i can barely hear it when i passed some one.

i am under the assumption that the top post is stuck and this is causing the caliper to not seat correctly all the way in. the other thing i have observed was that on a previous car the caliper seized and became so hot i burnt my hand, this is not the case it is warm but not hot.

so how would i push the caliper off if it is stuck on there?

i have tried to hit it with a hammer and it wouldn't move i used a crowbar to move it up to get the pads off

thanks

moonphase

Some calipers just pivot up for pad replacement, but I don't know about the es330! Did you clean and re-lube the brake pad slides, and remove, clean, and re-lube the guide bolt pins that the caliper bolts go into? Did the caliper dust boots look intact? You can buy an inexpensive caliper compressor from Amazon.com to compress the piston after removal. Make sure the pad slides are on correctly also which will cause a nasty scraping noise. If the caliper is defective, Most people replace them, but I bought rebuild kits and new pad slides from Amazon.com and rebuilt the rear calipers on our 1997 es300 for next to nothing, but it was challenging to get the spring clips back on that hold the dust boots. After removing the dust boot spring clips, the way to take the piston out of the caliper on the bench is to place a thick rag in the caliper for the piston to impact, and use compressed air to blow the piston out. apply the air at the fluid fitting, and the piston should pop right out. Just keep your hands away from where the piston will exit.

umbro7267

Ya mine just pivit up but it wont come off that arm


Ps, not sure what the tech name of that is

moonphase

On the es300 the two caliper bolts are removed, and the caliper is free to remove. The guide pins then can be removed for the new lube or replacement if worn badly. I put a thin layer of lube on the guide pins, pad slides, metal corners of the pads, and the face of the piston for noise control. If your guide pin has a flat spot for a wrench, then that means they will turn freely and should be removed for lubrication. I would think all calipers are removable for replacement.

moonphase

Do you suppose the problem is with the parking brake pads instead of the caliper and pads?

umbro7267

No parking brake is fine i checked it and like i said there is only one lower bolt and the caliper should swing up, the passenger side words just fine. But the driver side gave me grief from this, the only thing i can think of it the out side pad is rubbing slightly, its just an annoying light scratching noise

moonphase

You might slide under that end and verify the stainless steel pad slides aren't on wrong and scraping against the rotors. Did you hit the new rotors with fine sandpaper, and wash with soap, water then rinse and dry to aid in the pads seating to the rotors?

umbro7267

No but i used brake cleaner and let them dry, a new thing that is happening is i think it is the rear sway bar link i tried to remove it get an impact in and it just spins.

But the people at autozone said the pads where still good, so much for free replacements

moonphase

Doesn't the link have a hole for an allen wrench so it won't spin? I went with AC Delco ceramic pads and rotors.

moonphase

If you installed new rotors along with old pads, the noise is most likely from the ridges on the old pads dragging on the new rotors. Pads are relatively inexpensive if you get them online at say Amazon.com. Often the manufacturer has a rebate program for money back after purchase also. AC Delco, and Raybestos do much more product testing and have a higher rating on products than most other brands. The rotors I purchased use a low noise metal.

umbro7267

it does not look like a key hole to tighten the bolt up. i go with autozone pads and rotors. but it is mostly the odd clunking noise when the car brakes quickly

moonphase

The clunking doesn't sound right. Let us know how it turns out.

umbro7267

i will and as of now it seems to have stopped on its own? so now im at a loss for what it could have been, but im getting a 4 wheel alignment tomorrow along with an inspection