regorih

Guys I really need your help on this one.

1996 Lexus es300 USA model but built in Japan with the 1mzfe engine.

Old symptoms- car would start but somes times I would have to wait ten minutes before it wanted to turn on and when it would turn on it would react late from the time I gave it gas to the point it started to accelerate and as I was going it would cut in and out.

I changed the starter and now it wont turn on.

This is all my trouble shooting.
- checked all the fuses and they where all good
- checked for CEL codes with the scanner and no codes
- checked fuel pump and it does pump gas when I turn the key to crank position
- checked fuel pressure after fuel filer and got @50psi from cranking

so at this point I try to turn the car on and it does but it idles around 400rpms and when I gave it throttle it would not exceed past 700rpms even at wide open throttle. Car turns off and still no CEL light or codes

Now I look at the spark plugs even though the car turned on. I find that the spark plugs are wet with gas and test to see if the spark plugs in the coil boot are firing, well I see no spark arc.

I get my multimeter and put the key in the ignition and turn it to start and check for 12 volts at the coil connector, well I get 0 volts.

I repeat the process again but this time with some one cranking the car and I still get 0 volts at the coil connector pins.

So my questions is what controls voltage being supplies to the coils?

Super desperate

Any tips would make the world

Roger

hzt30

You should have 12 volts on pin #1 of the coils with the ignition on. The 12 volts comes from the ignition switch.

regorih

Can you specify where pin 1 is exactly at ?

hzt30

Pin #1 has a wire that is black with a red tracer. Pin #2 is a blue wire that comes from the igniter.

hzt30

This is the picture of the DIS ignition system for a 1997 ES300... one coil for two spark plugs.

regorih

hzt30,

Thank you so much for the help but to be honest im not on that level yet. I have taken a electrical class for drafting a white back so the diagram is not totally alien to me, although I will say im some what lost.

If you could walk me through the process it would help out. Im assuming pin one is coil No.1? Just in case I dont get 12v with the ignition on one do I just keep going back?

Im also not sure where pin 2 is.

So should I have 12v by checking pin 1 and pin 2? \

I am familiar with a multimeter as far as checking for voltage, continuity, and resistance.

Roger

regorih

hzt30,

Ok I studies the diagram and I understand it now.

With the ignition on I did get a reading of 12v at pin 1 from all three coils when I grounded the circuit with the multimeter.

Now with the ignition on I got a reading of .20v from pin 2 on all three coils.

Can this mean the igniter is bad? Maybe I could test it, is there a way to do that?

Roger

regorih

I did want to add that I also got a reading of 12v from the black wire with red tracer that is a #9 that travels after the J22 junction connection that's leads to the igniter.

hzt30

You should get 12 Volts on the black w/red tracer with ignition on. This is your ignition feed which goes to pin #1 of the three coils. Pin #2 of the coils come from the igniter which is a pulse signal when the engine is cranking or running. If you get no pulses on pin #2 of the coils, then the igniter is not sending it out. This could be a problem with the crank sensor telling the ECM not to send a trigger to the igniter.