DeePrtt

My 1999 ES300 with 137,000 miles is a great friend, but I'm retired on SS now and need to be sure it makes sense to make the recommended repairs without a lot more expense around the corner. It is running very rough the last few weeks, smelling very HOT inside (not outside) and low acceleration even with A/C off and off & on a whining noise. It does heat enough to overflow into the reservoir, but no leaks or smoke. The codes are PO171 (air fuel sensor too lean), PO325 (knock sensor) & PO330 (knock sensor2). I looked those up here - thanks! Hey, I have NO car smarts but I can read). Soooo, a quote today is that it needs all spark plugs replaced with platinum, a full flush of trans fluid rather than drain and fill because it is "very dark". Then possibly ignition coils and intake manifold gasket but he can't tell until he gets inside. The quote is $1,578 and that will take close to all I have... does that make sense to y'all or is there more I should worry about? I've been offered $3,600 for her "as is" for a trade in but I'd love to keep her if this will probably fix the problem. Is there some way to tell without doing the whole repair list at once and then finding some other expensive issue once inside because I cannot do that. Thank you so much! Dee

clunkjunk

What does the temp gauge say when it smells very hot? You might want to get another estimate just to be sure. Call around to reputable shops and ask them to give you an estimate to do all the work plus parts. Might even call a dealership just for a reference point.

The PO171 may mean you have vacuum leak or a problem with the MAF sensor. If it's the MAF, cleaning it may help.

Anyone messed with the car lately?

randal

Honestly its time to find a new mechanic. Replacing those items might be good(in general) to do but will, most likely, not resolve your main issues. And that price is way too high for what is to be done. It sounds like you found a guy who is going to throw parts at the problem hoping to hit it. Not a a cost-effective way to go.

Your "smells hot inside, not outside" has me puzzled. It had me wondering if your catalytic converter were clogged and getting very hot perhaps heating the cabin. But that is pure speculation on my part. Take it with a grain of salt. Your codes indicating lean fuel may be telling that a sensor is bad such as an air flow sensor. Might be that simple.

I know that this will sound obvious but you need to nail down the root cause before putting a lot of money into it. And there are smart ways to go about that diagnosis without "shotgunning" it. I wish I could be of more help. Its hard to diagnose from 1800 miles away. As I said before, it is time to find another mechanic. A second and even third opinion is always helpful.

BradTank

You're about to be taken on a very expensive ride.

Your mechanic definitely sounds like he's just "shotgunning" parts with no rhyme or reason. It doesn't seem like he has any idea what problems he's addressing and what the final bill will be to make all the required repairs. You don't just start off with $1,500 to start tearing into a car and see what happens. He should provide you with a detailed list of what's wrong and why, the parts he needs to replace, and the amount of labor required to do all the repairs that will resolve all of your issues.

I'd take the car elsewhere. He'll probably want $100 to "diagnose" the problems (which he hasn't earned) but it will be the bargain of the century to get it out of his shop.

DeePrtt

Thank you so much! It feels so much better just to know that you all agree with what my intuition (but no information) was telling me. I will take it to another mechanic - probably two and now know better questions to ask, thanks to you all. I'm definitely going to sleep better tonight even though the problem isn't fixed yet, and have a plan of action for tomorrow. Thank goodness for places like this to go for advice. !

BTW, in answer to your question, clunkjunk, the temp gauge doesn't show hot, and no one has messed with my car that I'm aware of. I read the threads recommending not to full flush the transmission with higher miles, but rather drain and fill over the next few oil changes - that surprised me!

1987

That mechanic is definitely looking to get some work out of you. He hasn't properly been diagnosed. To me it sounds like a vacuum leak with a lean code and running rough. A tune up would be a good idea if its never been done but may not be necessary to solve your problem. Take the car to someone else.

Bdub215

iTrader: (1)

You'd probably be able to get away with a MAF clean, and two knock sensors + labor at a dealer for half that cost. That were me thats what i'd be doing.