Backyard Mechanics: Did I do this right?
#19
If you can crack that sucker open carefully, you can just re-solder the connecting pins to the board. I had a similar issue with a nissan pathfinder I once owned. Re-soldered and the code was gone for good.
#20
Lexus Champion
it's Nippon Denso - they just have to pay Bosch a patent royalty each year depending on how many cars are sold
#21
Lexus Champion
#22
from my reading of this thread, you have not definitively established that the pump is bad, you need to follow all of the steps in the service manual methodically, I have seen cases where leaking ECU capacitors will cause this, also I would check the ABS ECU for leaking caps as well. - also check the circuitry in that module you photographed.
I finally got a chance to swap the ABS unit. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I sprayed the brake lines with some PB Blaster and let them soak for a few hours. The only tool required was a 10/12mm flare wrench. I also used a regular open end wrench once everything was loose. The only trick was doing everything fast enough so that not a lot of brake fluid dripped out of the lines. I also read that holding the brake pedal just a little bit helps prevent the brake fluid from coming out - so I did that.
Finally, I bled all four brake calipers, extensively, until I was sure that all the air was out. Went through 2 small bottles. Probably could have used a lot less, because I had to do the job twice.
The "new" ABS motor is much quieter at start ups, so that's a good sign. Brakes work beautifully and there are no leaks. I'm gonna go out on a limb and call this one fixed. If the lights come back, I will update this thread as soon as I get a chance.
Last edited by Hayk; 03-24-14 at 08:13 PM.
#23
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Nice thread! Any more ABS related issues?
I've got an ABS light with flashing TRAC light on my 97 ES300, several mechanics have scanned for ABS codes and gotten the 43 code. Since 43 is not a valid code I'm tempted to replace the ABS/Trac ECU first. Also, it sounds like I should try the speed sensor test and also listen for the ABS actuator / pump noise at startup. Taking it to a dealer so they can experiment with hugely expensive guesses is not an option, I'd rather try swapping out the most likely suspect with an Ebay purchase. If it doesn't fix the problem then I've got a spare.
I've got an ABS light with flashing TRAC light on my 97 ES300, several mechanics have scanned for ABS codes and gotten the 43 code. Since 43 is not a valid code I'm tempted to replace the ABS/Trac ECU first. Also, it sounds like I should try the speed sensor test and also listen for the ABS actuator / pump noise at startup. Taking it to a dealer so they can experiment with hugely expensive guesses is not an option, I'd rather try swapping out the most likely suspect with an Ebay purchase. If it doesn't fix the problem then I've got a spare.
Thank you for your input. I'm gonna keep that in mind, if the issue comes back.
I finally got a chance to swap the ABS unit. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I sprayed the brake lines with some PB Blaster and let them soak for a few hours. The only tool required was a 10/12mm flare wrench. I also used a regular open end wrench once everything was loose. The only trick was doing everything fast enough so that not a lot of brake fluid dripped out of the lines. I also read that holding the brake pedal just a little bit helps prevent the brake fluid from coming out - so I did that.
Finally, I bled all four brake calipers, extensively, until I was sure that all the air was out. Went through 2 small bottles. Probably could have used a lot less, because I had to do the job twice.
The "new" ABS motor is much quieter at start ups, so that's a good sign. Brakes work beautifully and there are no leaks. I'm gonna go out on a limb and call this one fixed. If the lights come back, I will update this thread as soon as I get a chance.
I finally got a chance to swap the ABS unit. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I sprayed the brake lines with some PB Blaster and let them soak for a few hours. The only tool required was a 10/12mm flare wrench. I also used a regular open end wrench once everything was loose. The only trick was doing everything fast enough so that not a lot of brake fluid dripped out of the lines. I also read that holding the brake pedal just a little bit helps prevent the brake fluid from coming out - so I did that.
Finally, I bled all four brake calipers, extensively, until I was sure that all the air was out. Went through 2 small bottles. Probably could have used a lot less, because I had to do the job twice.
The "new" ABS motor is much quieter at start ups, so that's a good sign. Brakes work beautifully and there are no leaks. I'm gonna go out on a limb and call this one fixed. If the lights come back, I will update this thread as soon as I get a chance.
#24
Nice thread! Any more ABS related issues?
I've got an ABS light with flashing TRAC light on my 97 ES300, several mechanics have scanned for ABS codes and gotten the 43 code. Since 43 is not a valid code I'm tempted to replace the ABS/Trac ECU first. Also, it sounds like I should try the speed sensor test and also listen for the ABS actuator / pump noise at startup. Taking it to a dealer so they can experiment with hugely expensive guesses is not an option, I'd rather try swapping out the most likely suspect with an Ebay purchase. If it doesn't fix the problem then I've got a spare.
I've got an ABS light with flashing TRAC light on my 97 ES300, several mechanics have scanned for ABS codes and gotten the 43 code. Since 43 is not a valid code I'm tempted to replace the ABS/Trac ECU first. Also, it sounds like I should try the speed sensor test and also listen for the ABS actuator / pump noise at startup. Taking it to a dealer so they can experiment with hugely expensive guesses is not an option, I'd rather try swapping out the most likely suspect with an Ebay purchase. If it doesn't fix the problem then I've got a spare.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake12.pdf
Looks like a malfunction in the ABS ECU. Also something with either low or abnormally high battery voltage. Just keep in mind that access to the ABS ECU is not easy. You might need to remove the main ECU to get to the bolts. I had a hard time disconnecting the harness when I was testing for continuity.
#26
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Thanks, yep, that code is a TRAC code not an ABS code so I have a replacement ABS/TRAC ECU ordered from Ebay. I know a great mechanic who might be able to pop it in for a reasonable charge hopefully.
Look at page 25 and 26 in this PDF
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake12.pdf
Looks like a malfunction in the ABS ECU. Also something with either low or abnormally high battery voltage. Just keep in mind that access to the ABS ECU is not easy. You might need to remove the main ECU to get to the bolts. I had a hard time disconnecting the harness when I was testing for continuity.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake12.pdf
Looks like a malfunction in the ABS ECU. Also something with either low or abnormally high battery voltage. Just keep in mind that access to the ABS ECU is not easy. You might need to remove the main ECU to get to the bolts. I had a hard time disconnecting the harness when I was testing for continuity.
#27
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Ack! The replacement ECU gets the same code, my mechanic is willing to keep going with the troubleshooting next week so hopefully he can figure it out. The good news is that it cost me less than $100 for parts & labor, at a dealer that would have been scary expensive just to rule out the ECU.
#28
Mr. Bobby, were you ever able to fix the problem? The ABS light on my 99 ES300 just started coming on. I'm getting codes 21, 22, 23, 24, and 26. I'm also hearing quite a bit of whining when I first start the car. I assumed it was something else going on, but from reading your thread, I'm guessing it's the ABS actuator. Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot? Thanks.
#29
Mr. Bobby, were you ever able to fix the problem? The ABS light on my 99 ES300 just started coming on. I'm getting codes 21, 22, 23, 24, and 26. I'm also hearing quite a bit of whining when I first start the car. I assumed it was something else going on, but from reading your thread, I'm guessing it's the ABS actuator. Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot? Thanks.
I'm still constantly looking for a solution. I would like to try going to a professional to have them read my ABS codes with a professional reader with a specific key for this car, so that it's not just generic descriptions that I've been getting. Hopefully they will be able to pinpoint the problem, without having me to swap out my ABS computer.
As somebody else has mentioned, it could be a glitch inside the computer, due to bad capacitors.
#30
That sucks. I doubt the computer is bad. In my experience, a bad capacitor usually causes a total failure and you wouldn't be getting codes from it. I see you changed the actuator. Did you get the same exact codes after changing the actuator?
I looked at the actuator in my car yesterday and it looks in good condition, no leaks and no noise. I did notice that the wiring harness to it had a couple of wires where the insulation was missing in sections, almost like a rat or mouse was chewing on it. I'll have to check on that. I cleared the codes and they haven't come back yet.
I looked at the actuator in my car yesterday and it looks in good condition, no leaks and no noise. I did notice that the wiring harness to it had a couple of wires where the insulation was missing in sections, almost like a rat or mouse was chewing on it. I'll have to check on that. I cleared the codes and they haven't come back yet.